What rpm is considered lugging the 24v?

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At what rpm is considered lugging the 24v? Both empty and towing?


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99 Quad Cab, 5sp, 24v, long box, nerf bars, pro-flaps, tow package, Rhino liner, stock diesel, loaded with options. Raven top ordered.

 

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Cool, this is post #500! #ad


Keep it above 1,500 empty, and above 1700 towing... What do you guys think?

BOMBED

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Evan A. Beck "NW PUNK"
Prez, NW BOMBers

2001 4x2 QC, 139" WB, 6-speed, ETH, SLT... yadda yadda yadda... 2,130 miles and counting!

Check out NW PUNK for more info!

 

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all of 'em---- 12-valves rule! **and with a hearty "hahahaha" the properly valved trespasser starts a s*%tstorm of cyber-ribbing between the two factions^^
Seriously, any "lugging" of any internal combustion engine is where an increased throttle or fueling position fails to create acceleration... if you've ever shortshifted a manual trans, and had that chug-chug effect that shakes the whole vehicle, that's a "lug" ... . if you haven't, go do it (unloaded and not taxing the truck heavily) just once or twice to get a feel of what you're supposed to avoid... . don't do that for a long distance, either, because that fuel is still being delivered and still making heat... if your RPMs don't come up with the fuel increase, your pistons don't drop away out of the hot zone as quickly as they should, and that's how blown pistons can be made. . rule of thumb, regardless of roadspeed,gear setting,or rpm, if the loud pedal doesn't also double as a go-fast pedal, and the truck shakes, you're in a "lug" situation---rich

 

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Good advice from Evan. Listen to the engine/drive train, it makes unhappy noises when you lug it, and whistles for you when you don't. If it takes more than a second or two for the turbo to start spooling up after you push the go pedal you're lugging it. If it takes a long time to get up and go you're lugging it. In other words, you should stay near the RPMs where when you push the go pedal you feel the power come on and the truck starts pulling harder.

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2001 HO 6 speed Regular Cab SLT 4x4 3. 54 anti spin 2500. Used for the daily grind and sneaking away to some secret Baja beaches toting a cabover

 

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This all looks like good advise to me. Just listen to Cummins and if she ain't Hummin right then down shift.

 

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You will hurt the trans before the engine. The trans is happiest under load if over 1900 rpm.

 

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RE:At what rpm is considered lugging the 24v? Both empty and towing?

Engine/drivetrain vibration is the main indicator for me. If you apply fuel and torque very sparingly, everything is smooth from idle on up. Try a little too much torque for a given rpm and the torsional vibrations from the individual cylinders power strokes become noticable. It's probably more a psycological thing. As wide as the main and rod bearings are, it would probably take a lot of abuse to actually hurt the engine. Like Mr. Donnelly indicated, the trans and drivetrain would probably crap out before you hurt the engine.

 

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It used to be easy with the old diesels. Just look for lots of black smoke.

 

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I always keep mine over 1000 RPM... .

John- N6JWH

"The hardest part of any task is getting
up off one's butt and doing it"

JWH 1976

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1999 2500 Club Cab 139" WB, Deep Amethyst Pearl Coat, 24V, 5 speed, 2WD, 3. 54 LSD, Mag Hytec diff cover, Jacobs E-brake, Muffler Eliminator, K&N filter, Black Maxx lumber rack, Delta tool box.

 

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I always run my truck at a minimum of 1250 rpm unload of course and while pulling my Jeep and trailer (about 6000 lbs) I don't ever let the RPM get below 1600 rpm.

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2001 2500HD Quad Cab SLT SB 4x4, HO Cummins, 6-speed, 3. 55 gears, LSD, brightwhite/driftwood, air dam, 4w ABS, camper and trailer tow packages, fog lamps, CD/cassette, HD transfer case, snow plow prep, travel convenience group, cab lights (ordered 1/11/00, shipped 2/14/00, recieved 3/4/00).
5000 miles as of 4/10/00.

1980 CJ-5, Modified for off-road use, bobbed fenders, 350 TBI, NP435 trans, 4. 56 gears, Dana 300, Dana 44 front, Dana 60 reverse-cut rear axle, ARB air lockers front and rear, 15/35/15 Super Swamper TSL on 10X15 steel rims, Cobra CB, Warn 9000I winch, nerf bars, 1/4" steel rock crawler bumper front and rear, jerri can/spare tire rack, custom roll cage.

 

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Just don't apply a full load situation below peak torque RPM. #ad
It is completely ok to operate the motor at light loads below peak torque RPM.

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No high tech fuel system needed. Just good old fashioned diesel power!!
'97 FL60,5. 9 cummins,marine pistons(15. 0:1compression ratio),oversize head gasket,300hp. diamond"b" injectors,HX40-16cm2 turbo,custom grind fuel plate,17. 5 timing,4"straight exhaust,60lb. ex. springs,no grid heater,44psi of pure pleasure!!!!!!!!!!!!!
<<>>Charles Pyatt<<>>
"I love the smell of diesel in the morning!"

 

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I'd have to agree with Turbo6 mainly. A lot of the others are right too, but Turbo6's philosophy and mine are closest to the same. It's load dependent. Don't even think about rolling along in 6th from 1,100 r. p. m. and flooring it. But, for example, with unloaded truck on flat level ground in 6th gear, you could slowly ease on the throttle and it'll do just fine. If the vibration during acceleration gets to be more than normal and it doesn't seem to want to accelerate, then its lugging.

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Y2K 2500 Cummins ETC/DEE, SLT+, 4X4, Quad, LB, Intense Blue Sport, 3. 54 anti-spin, rear aux. springs (camper special), sliding rear window, all options except cab clearance lights including agate leather, totally stock, one mpg increaser goodie

 

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I agree with Joe on 1900 rpm and what you really need to do is look at your EGT guage because if you are lugging it under load it will shoot up real fast. So time to shift down.

 

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