Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) What's happened to the epidemic of VP-44 issues?

[Rattler]

Well, i got the truck back together the other night. Like Joe said, the hardest part was getting to the pump. It took me 2 hrs. teardown and 2hrs. to put it back together, which i didn't think was too bad for a first timer. What i have noticed most is how the truck starts now, just like when it was new. Now when i turn the key, the truck starts instantly. It had gotten to where it cranked longer and longer. Randy

 

[Joe Mc]

Randy, Glad to hear it went well and truck is back on line. I noticed the same as you starts like it did when I first got it - after WTS light goes out, turn key + 3 seconds - HELLO! Life is good again.



"Dude" - I just noticed your sig - you have an "X", big block 4 spd in my favorite color! - of course only for that specific year / body. AWESOME. Oo.



My "other toy" is a 73, 340 Duster, 4 spd, Spinnaker White / Black gut bench seat car. I've owned it off and on since 1979 (mostly on) its a Freddie Flinstone mobile w/only 40,400 miles (no numbers match - long gone). AMD just started to pop a full floor for = rail to rail / toe board to rear seat riser including tunnel that I've ordered and hope to receive in the next month. Then the can of worms will be opened.

 

[jesnic]

Ok, my VP44 is acting up. I get a PO253 code with the comp box on 5x5. I believe it will need a new injection pump. I spoke with turbo diesel and electric and with diesel innovators, and a few others and they all told me that with a new VP44 the tapped pump wire will void the warranty. How else are you supposed to use the comp or juice without tapping? I don't want to spend a bunch more money on injectors, smarty, and other items just to loose my money on the unuseable comp box.

 

[SnoKing]

Check Source Automotive! I believe he has a pump source that will allow you to tap it, as long as you tell him up front.



SNOKING

 

[Rattler]

I was wondering about the BD stealth pump cover. Does it plug in series with your harness? How does it hook to the pump without tapping the pump wire? Hey Joe, my current project is a bit more complicated than building my GTX was. I am putting a 57 Dodge truck body on an 88 Dakoya frame, with a 70 model 440 and 727. So far, i have mounted the body and mounted the 440. Still lots to do . It makes for a good project to work on when i need something to do. Randy

 

[NETim]

Just installed a replacement VP44 on my rig today. No more subtle surge at highway speeds with cruise on. No parts store in town will clear the 0216 code for me though. I guess I just have to wait for it to clear on its own.



Hopefully the mileage will come back up to normal.

 

[jesnic]

I'll check Source Automotive on monday. As for the stealth cover, it still taps the wire. It is just a pin hole in the wire. It can still be seen if the cover is removed.

 

[rayplumas]

fuel pressure issue

I have a fuel pressure problem that I cannot solve. I replaced the stock lift pump with a DDRP unit. Engine was running fine. Fuel pressure goes to + 13 as you drive the pressure goes down to eventually zero. Turn engine off and it again pumps up to 13 and stays up until the engine warms up. I put in a relay so the pump gets solid 12 v. as long as the key is on. I have replaced all the lines and the in tank pickup unit. Bought an Advance Auto LP and it does the same thing.

Is there some sort of bypass valve on the VP 44 that would cause the fuel to flow throught and register zero? I also have noticed a slight miss at idle once the engine is warmed up, not all the time though.



Or is the injector pump toast??? Any help out there, the local Dodge Mech has no clue here.

 

[rayplumas]

How big a job is it to replace the IP yourself?

 

[icman95]

Is there a possibility that your fp gauge or sending unit-if electric- is bad and that the pressure itself is actually ok?

 

[Joe Mc]

I was wondering about the BD stealth pump cover. Does it plug in series with your harness? How does it hook to the pump without tapping the pump wire? Hey Joe, my current project is a bit more complicated than building my GTX was. I am putting a 57 Dodge truck body on an 88 Dakoya frame, with a 70 model 440 and 727. So far, i have mounted the body and mounted the 440. Still lots to do . It makes for a good project to work on when i need something to do. Randy

Sounds like a cool project. I just happened to catch Stacy's (forget his last name) show "Gearz" on Speed Ch this am. He had an old (forget the year) Dodge truck w/HEMI, 4 spd and zoomies coming out just in front of the rear tires - it was the old "Cherry Bomb" truck from back in the day, paint was all faded and such, put a long 2 bend gear shift w/8-ball knob. It was pretty cool, he also installed ladder bars and left the leaf springs on w/floating mounts.



As for the "stealth cover" see link BD Stealth Cover for the VP44 Injector Pump How it works is you remove the cover on your pump and install the stealth cover in its place. The cover is plastic, or at least a non-conductive material, then there's a threaded allen stud with a piercing tip that gets installed in the threaded area of the cover that pierces the molded area where the wire runs in to the innards of the electrics. You place the wire w/eyelet over the stud, washer and nut, tighten it down then instead of "tapping the wire" you connect to your power box with a male and female plug.



Note the statement in their link "The BD stealth cover prevents you from having to splice the wires on your VP44 pump. By splicing the lines, you void the warranty. This is a must have product for VP44 pump owners that are wanting to add power modules such as the Edge Comp. "

 

[rayplumas]

Double checked that with another gauge, and the engine will almost die after the pressure goes down.

 

[Joe Mc]

How big a job is it to replace the IP yourself?

Like others indicated the hardest part is getting to it, then there's the mental stress of "did the gear pop off the shaft, or am I imagining things" as you torque down on the puller. If you borrow an OEM puller from Autozone or the like, do yourself a favor and stop off somewhere for shorter bolts. The ones that come in the puller are like 3 1/2" long = too darn long, I got 2 1/2" bolts that worked much better - I think they were 8 X 1. 25 mm X 60 mm, cost my $2 @ Homo DePot.

If you have a Dodge shop manual its pretty easy to follow along with. If not here's a link or two that have instructions:
VP44 Dodge Pump Installation Instructions
Bosch VP44 Replacement

and a video from Diesel Dan's Homepage
Putfile - Welcome to my homepage!

Have fun!

 

[rayplumas]

Thank you, the job does not look too bad to do.

 

[Rattler]

Hey Joe, if you are still having to pierce something, isn't that going to show up just like pierceing the wire normally? Yea i watched the Gearz show yesterday to. That truck was a 64 model that had a 528 Hemi with a Viper 6 speed. I liked the truck except for the zoomies and the new wheels he put on. Randy

 

[SnoKing]

I believe the cover just has a set screw that goes against a contact point under the cover. Again check with RIP about a pump that is warrantied when tapped. SNOKING

 

[Rattler]

I have already replaced my pump. I looked under the cover of my old pump and don't see anything that would be contacted by the set screw. Randy

 

[Joe Mc]

Randy, I know what you mean about piercing something. However, after installing the cover, piercing stud and checking to make sure there was continuity between one of the male tips on the pump female socket (where the truck harness plugs in) and the piercing stud I removed the cover to see where it actually pierces. There's an area under the cover with a small round indent in the top of VPs molded connection point that the piercing stud centers into and then the pointed tip of the stud pierces in the bottom of the round indent to make contact with the wire within. Hard to explain, but when you get the new pump and remove the top cover it'll click. So in fact you are piercing something . . . but not the actual "wire" leading to the pump. So, if there's a problem with the new pump (doubtful as if the shop claims the pump is Bosch spec rebuilt, its run on a test stand for 4 hours before being certified, so there shouldn't be any problems) you remove the stealth cover, flatten down the bottom of the round indent (where the stud pierced) and maybe even place a drop of black wax in there to help hide the pierced area, then reinstall the original cover, making sure to put some yellow paint on the screw and a tad along the side to the pump cover and it looks like it just came out of the box. Myself, I'm not concerned with hiding a piercing, but liked the concept of the pierced area being under the stealth cover and "out of the environment of the engine compartment" = connection point being less likely to become corroded over time than one of those wire tap connectors they send with the power boxes. They can become corroded and may even break the wire causing your truck to stop dead, just like a VP failure, and guess when this will happen? More than likely not in your driveway where all your tools and such are. So, for me, in a way, it was an insurance measure of sorts?



Yeah, I didn't really like the zoomies either, and the wheels were a bit funky too, but both were definitely period correct for the truck. I caught the show in the middle so I wasn't sure what HEMI was in it. Neat old truck though.



Are you a member of the MoPar site For B Bodies Only ? I'm on the A-Body site, obviously my Duster is an A, there's a wealth of information on these sites almost as good as our beloved TDR.



Catch you later Randy.

 

[Rattler]

Hey Joe, i haven't seen that b-body site. I will have to check it out. This is my first b-body. I had started with an a-body( 70 Duster), then got into e-bodies ( Challengers and Cudas) My last car is up in Delaware with a friend, it was a 71 Barracuda vert ,340 4 speed in Tor-red with black top. Randy

 

[SNiebaum]

FWIW, my brother has two trucks at his diesel shop right now waiting for new pumps to arrive...