Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) What's happened to the epidemic of VP-44 issues?

[Joe Mc]

Dirk,

Saw your PM from last night (7P) prior to getting on here. I misunderstood your reply, #97 above, and thought the "pop" was the gear letting loose, bet you hoped that's what it was too, but I didn't realize it was "just" the bolt.



I'm thinking that somewhere I heard of a guy that had to use heat but I'd think that would be a last resort as you could damage ??? something in the process. I guess if you took the fan & shroud off to give a better access that might be helpful. Man, you've got a tough one there . . . I'd give it a go w/the grade 8s before trying something else. Once you get the puller bound and don't feel comfortable "cranking" on it any more, you could "tap" the bolts going into the gear - one tap one side, another tap on the other side - then snug the puller bolt (if it will even budge) then tap the gear bolts again. Tapping the gear bolts versus the main - because you don't want to have to remove the radiator just to tap the main bolt "and" the puller bolts are actually attached to the part (gear) that needs to "pull" off the shaft.



If all else fails, and if I was in your situation, I'd get a small fine tip propane tank torch and give the gear (obviously not the shaft) a 5 - 10 second warm up, then try to tighten the puller bolt and tap the gear bolts and try to warm the gear a bit more.



It's like you are at the "if all else fails" spot in the job. So, what are some of the potential problems if using heat - there's oil in the timing gear area, fumes from the oil in the pan = keep a fire extinguisher handy. Make sure there isn't any fuel around the area you're torching, clean any residue from fuel/oil real good and don't leave the torch linger too long.



An option instead of a torch, I just though of, could be a CO2 extinguisher, or maybe some of those little cartridges for pellet guns and use to cool the shaft as the puller is on and tensioned up, then tap the gear bolts. Problem would be to figure out how to use the cartridges without freeze burning yourself in the process.



I'd hate to use heat because of the potentials there, but have heard of some others having to do so. Just be careful not to ruin the core in the process.



Keep us posted - I'm really looking forward to hearing how you finally get it off / hope the grade 8s do the trick . . .

 

[SnoKing]

Get a short 3 or 4 inch piece of 1/4" 1. 5X1. 5 angle iron. Measure the spacing of the screw holes in the gear and drill two matching holes in the angle iron. Go to NAPA and buy two high grade bolts the correct lenght. On my truck the shaft cleared the front of the timing cover just enough that I did not need to use a spacer between the puller and the shaft. Use a couple flat washers on each bolt so the bolt will turn easy against the puller. You can lube the washers also. Tighten and then tap the puller where it meets the shaft. Pump should still be mounted to the engine when doing this. Two holes in angle iron are at 1. 5 inch centers. Bolts are maked SKS 8. 8 They are 1. 5+ inches on the treaded part. Yeah! I know I should have cleaned this custom puller up and painted it before going public.



SNOKING

 

[DFerverda]

Thanks Guys. IT IS OUT... ... ...
After busting 2 bolts and bending several more, i decided to try some heat suggested in my other thread. I fixed my torch, needed a new regulator, set it as low as i could and got the fire ex ready, heated the gear on the bottom for about 12 seconds, (i tested on a thick piece of steel) and heated the gear under the puller that was under pressure from the puller.
Joe you suggested putting the mounting bolts on kinda loose, good call
i shut off the torch and gave wrench on the puller a turn and it sounded like the side glass blew out of the truck. The key Was still in place so i am good to go.....
Thanks for all the suggestions, Snoking i think i will build one of those, you would have a little more room to swing something at it to try to jar it loose on a really stuck one, I won't paint mine either, or maybe paint it bright orange so i can find it in the corner of the shop...
Dirk

 

[Gary - K7GLD]

Other potential users of the angle iron piece up further above, will want to be sure to obtain the HEAVY wall angle as pictured, not the thinner and softer stuff ACE hardware and similar places stock and sell - a decent welding shop would be a good source. Last thing you want is the steel in the fixture to bend and deform, and then place bending stresses on the grade 8 bolt!



Sure glad my own pump gear come of so much easier than what's described above!

 

[Joe Mc]

Dirk - Glad you finally got her off, that was a tough one! Kinda scary when it popped, but its done now. Good job! Hope the rest of the install goes much much easier. Let us know when she's back on-line.

 

[DFerverda]

Had it done and running less then 2 hours after it popped off. Had to have a sandwich and a cold one.
Took about 15 cycles of the lp to get fuel flowing out the lines, I took your advice and cleaned them up good and blew them out.
We ran down to see my grandbaby and daughter, couple hundred round trip, and she purred like a kitten.
Thanks for the help.
Dirk

 

[me4osu]

Rebuilt pump from MWFI is sweet! Purged primary once, and cranked about 30 sec with all inj lines loose at the head. Tightened them all, recranked and it busted right off.



The only trouble I had was the stock pump bracket was broken at the weld. I had to order the updated one from Cummins, and had to bend it to get the holes to line up. After that, it was a snap. Good for another few hundred thousand!

 

[Joe Mc]

Had it done and running less then 2 hours after it popped off. Had to have a sandwich and a cold one.

Took about 15 cycles of the lp to get fuel flowing out the lines, I took your advice and cleaned them up good and blew them out.

We ran down to see my grandbaby and daughter, couple hundred round trip, and she purred like a kitten.

Thanks for the help.

Dirk

YEA!!!!!Oo.