Wheel bearing gone and ABS light on.

[Cattletrkr]

The cotter pin I was referring to maybe isn't a cotter pin at all. I assume something must hold the stub shaft in from the differential end. I really have no idea what's in there but what ever it is I wouldn't want it solely responsible for holding my wheel on.

Visually all that happened to the rotor was it got good and cleaned up on the outside. By riding that sideways for that long it simply ploished it nice and smooth. The inside looked "normal". We had to heat it and beat on it a lot to get it off so I figure for $65 I'll just put a new one on and be done with it. One end of one pad wore some but not as mch as you'd think. Still going with new pads though.

 

[steved]

The cotter pin I was referring to maybe isn't a cotter pin at all. I assume something must hold the stub shaft in from the differential end. I really have no idea what's in there but what ever it is I wouldn't want it solely responsible for holding my wheel on.

The shoulder of the stub shaft (the yoke end) holds the inside... tightening the nut pulls the shoulder tight against the unit bearing... squeezing the unit bearing together (bearing preload)...



steved

 

[Cattletrkr]

Got everything back together including new pads on both sides and a new rotor on the driver's side. Brakes feel funny, probably like they should, just different. Something in squealing in reverse, I think it's the dust cover rubbing somewhere. My brother put the bearing assembly on and I don't know how much clearance there is by the ABS sensor. That might be where the dust cover is rubbing. That's just annoying, what worries me is the howl I get going forward. Haven't had much chance to pinpoint it yet. It will do it in 1st gear thru whenever I can't hear it over the engine. No pull left of right.

Not much trucking this week so the truck isn't going too far. Supposed to rain tomorrow night and then keep raining for the next 4-5 days. Hopefully then I'll be out of the field and have some time to check it over.

I'm just over 179K now. Trading at 150K would have saved me $7500 in repairs so far. Don't ya just love second guessing????

 

[PBrauer]

One of two things come to mind... he either fought the stub shaft nut off, or he used the tip of the stub shaft to "push" from with a three jaw puller?? Was it an air hammer or an impact wrench??



steved

It was an air hammer. I tied it all together after thinking out loud in my post. Hammer on the end of the stub shaft while tapping hub w/giant mallet and pulling "out" on hub at the same time. Two of us working together probably made it much easier... Seemed hard at the time but not anything like what I've read in here. Didn't even realize until now that I'd done this (what I was reading) myself. Actually, we did it twice... wrong u-joints. Put it all back together, minus the axles and with a rag stuffed in each side of axle tube. The next day, started over with Mopar joints in hand. Both sides in probably two hours (total) the second time around. Anti sieze definately helped.



In case anyone's interested... after driving around for a day, probably about 30-40 miles, not a drop of gear oil on the rags, which I'd balled up carefully and pushed in all the way to the seals.



BTW, the nut came off with an impact wrench but took several seconds to start moving. I looked up the torque spec the other day... something like 265 lb-ft. Everything makes a lot more sense now.



Thanks steved for offering so much input to this thread. This is the next major thing I expect to need to do. Hoping to have two bearings and two upper studs ready BEFORE I need them... No problems yet at 220K but they can't last forever...

 

[05mxdiesel]

One of two things come to mind... he either fought the stub shaft nut off, or he used the tip of the stub shaft to "push" from with a three jaw puller?? Was it an air hammer or an impact wrench??



steved

I just finished up my bj's on the driver side yesterday, I also used a cheap three jaw puller from pep boys ($15) to seperate the stub shaft from the hub. My virgin hub asssembly came out fine but it took me almost three hours of pounding and pressing the old bj's out, especially the bottom one.



Once the abs sensor is screwed from the damaged hub assembly is it just a r&r on the cable and sensor, or does a dealer have to reset the code to get the abs functioning properly?

 

[05mxdiesel]

In case anyone's interested... after driving around for a day, probably about 30-40 miles, not a drop of gear oil on the rags, which I'd balled up carefully and pushed in all the way to the seals.



BTW, the nut came off with an impact wrench but took several seconds to start moving. I looked up the torque spec the other day... something like 265 lb-ft. Everything makes a lot more sense now.

You must have a pretty good impact then, mine is only good to 110 ft lbs. It took, me buying a 3/4 breaker bar with a 3' cheater pipe to bust the 1" 11/16 nut loose. If I every buy a new truck again, I will definatly disassemble some of the front end components and antiseize everything from the start. I do the same thing on dirt bikes, because the factory only uses fish oil on all of the bearings and collars. Grease and antiseize is your best friend.

 

[PBrauer]

You must have a pretty good impact then, mine is only good to 110 ft lbs. It took, me buying a 3/4 breaker bar with a 3' cheater pipe to bust the 1" 11/16 nut loose. If I every buy a new truck again, I will definatly disassemble some of the front end components and antiseize everything from the start. I do the same thing on dirt bikes, because the factory only uses fish oil on all of the bearings and collars. Grease and antiseize is your best friend.

Agreed, he has at least two or three sizes in his box. It was nice working from a lift with plenty of tools. My cousin's been working on everything from mini bikes to Caterpillars since he was a kid and he's perfectly capable of making hard stuff look easy. Even on round one we probably only spent an hour or so, per side, getting all the way to having the u-joints out. My heart sank when we realized the u-joints weren't going to go in... he just started putting it back together... "we'll get it tomorrow... you're just gonna be 2WD for the night... " All the way back together just so I could have my truck for the night...



Thanks again Chris. Next time I'll try to at least get the right parts.

 

[steved]

I just finished up my bj's on the driver side yesterday, I also used a cheap three jaw puller from pep boys ($15) to seperate the stub shaft from the hub. My virgin hub asssembly came out fine but it took me almost three hours of pounding and pressing the old bj's out, especially the bottom one.



Once the abs sensor is screwed from the damaged hub assembly is it just a r&r on the cable and sensor, or does a dealer have to reset the code to get the abs functioning properly?

My ABS sensor took ok by just swapping it out...



steved

 

[Cattletrkr]

My ABS sensor took ok by just swapping it out...

steved

So did mine. Light(s) stayed on until the truck moved a little and then it disappeared and hasn't come back.