Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Where to get new break off screw and engine paint?

[CTD12V]

I know I have seen the part numbers for both these items before, but I am having no luck finding anything in my searches tonight. Can anyone tell me where I can get a new break off screw for the AFC housing, and also Cummins gray engine paint for a 98 12-valve? I would assume a local Cummins parts dealer should be able to order them. What are the part numbers for these two items?



Thanks,



CTD12V

 

[hsmith]

I may have one of the screws. Chose not to reuse it, so must be laying around somewhere. If you want, I will look for it.

 

[Bob4x4]

I am sure there are many un-used break-off screws out there floating around. Tst included them in their t/plate kits. I prefer to use button head torx capscrews,they are very stealth looking after getting painted to match. Cummins would not be a good source as they were never authorized to make internal pump adjustments. The blue/black paint is available through Cummins,iirc they call the color bluke or something similiar

 

[C. Harlan]

quick question... why would you WANT to put a break off screw back on to your AFC housing??? you can go and get regular replacement screws, should the need arise to remove it again... Just curious.



-Chris-

 

[GAmes]

I don't have any type screw in that location, just a hole.

 

[CTD12V]

quick question... why would you WANT to put a break off screw back on to your AFC housing??? you can go and get regular replacement screws, should the need arise to remove it again... Just curious.



-Chris-

Because I have the misfortune of living in an area (Colorado Springs) that requires a yearly emissions test on all diesel pickup trucks. #@$%!#@$%!#@$%!

Part of the inspection, if they perform it fully, is to ensure that the aneroid seal (i. e. - AFC screws) is intact. The main part of the inspection involves running the truck up to 60 mph in 4th gear (manual transmission) on a dyno and then lugging it down to 40 mph while measuring the opacity of the smoke coming out the tailpipe. If the smoke is too dark, the emissions test is failed and I get to pay another $45 to have it retested after an "authorized repair shop" has corrected the problem. Pretty despicable, huh?



This wouldn't be a problem since I haven't ever opened up the AFC, except that I installed DDP 50hp injectors this summer, which produce enough smoke at peak power that I doubt I will pass the opacity test. The main problem though, is that with my catalytic convertor reinstalled, my EGTs are going to be in the red during the test. I don't want to ruin my engine and I don't want them questioning me why my pyrometer is in the red on a supposedly legal, stock truck. So the only way I see to remedy this pickle is to move the fuel plate back a tad to cut down on the peak fueling at full boost, hence the need for opening the AFC, and the need to put at least the head of a fresh break off screw back on the hole on the cover.



So, sorry for the long winded response, but that is the sorry state of affairs I find myself in. BTW, the DDP injectors helped my fuel mileage by about 2 mpg, but I don't think I got 50 hp from them (SOP meter).



CTD12V

 

[CTD12V]

I may have one of the screws. Chose not to reuse it, so must be laying around somewhere. If you want, I will look for it.

That would be great. Anybody have a spare break off screw they want to get rid of?



Thanks,



CTD12V

 

[GAmes]

I think it would be easier to reinstall the original injectors once a year. I don't believe moving the plate back would help you in this instance.

 

[CTD12V]

Why not? The most smoke and high temps I am concerned about occur at max fueling, which is governed by the fuel plate, if I understand correctly. I don't have much smoke under pre-boost conditions.



True, R&Ring the injectors is fairly simple on 12Vs, but it is still fairly tedious, and requires a bunch of new washers.

 

[Bob4x4]

You could also "plug"the boost signal to the afc and be sure you don't get any extra fueling. Internally where it won't show



Bob

 

[GAmes]

Why not? The most smoke and high temps I am concerned about occur at max fueling, which is governed by the fuel plate, if I understand correctly. I don't have much smoke under pre-boost conditions.

Much smoke?? How far to move the fuel plate back would be just a guess. Injector washers are cheap, and the results are a known entity. Bob 4X4 may be on to something.

 

[C. Harlan]

Have you done any star wheel mods?? I moved mine as far in on the spring as I could to see what it would do, and it didnt smoke, nor did it spool my HX40 either... You may want to look into this as well! Just an idea. .



-Chris-

 

[CTD12V]

OK, thanks for some ideas for me to think about this week until I can work on my truck next weekend.



I've thought about plugging the boost signal line. How can I plug it internally?



I guess I'll fiddle with the star wheel and see what happens. In theory from what I've heard, it shouldn't affect fueling at max boost, but maybe there is some other relationship that I'm unfamiliar with--I'll see what it does.



If you have any other thoughts, keep them coming. And if anybody has a break off screw they don't want, I'm still interested. Let me know what it's worth to you.



Thanks.

 

[Niro]

Wow I dont know what I would do if I had to deal with that testing every year?



Im just curious maybe you have state law like NJ where if you register a diesel vehicle to 10,000lbs or greater you are no longer subject to state inspection...



I would check into it, who knows I only found it a few months ago

 

[MLee]

CTD do you have the old break off screw? If you do fill the hole with enough wax to fill it in. The Bluke paint # is 3885911. If its the same color as my 95.

I can't Imagine that the inspection people are that through.

As stated try the star wheel.

 

[Bob4x4]

You can drill and tap most brass fittings and thread in a plug

 

[Signal73]

afc boost line fitting is 1/8npt just go to home depot and buy a brass one plug where the line went. I cant believe they are that through

 

[CTD12V]

Thanks for more info on plugging the line. It's hard to say if they are that thorough checking everything--probably depends on the tech, but I have seen them look around under the hood.



MLee, will the paint adhere to the wax if I fill the hole?



My boss had to have our F-550 emissions tested when he registered it, and I belive that is 17,500 lbs. I guess the moral of the story is, just don't register your truck in this stupid city.

 

[The patriot]

A guy on ebay has the Bluke 3885911. $9. 00 + shipping.

 

[CTD12V]

Thanks for the tips on "Bluke" paint. However, since mine is a 98, it should be "Titanium Black" I think.