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WHICH OIL TO USE ?

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Ok< I know that this topic has been discussed many times over... But I'm new here. I was curious about shell rotella T (sp) 15w40... About to do my first change, and the shell is priced well, and can't find many other choices around my way. THANK YOU
 
There might be a few better oils on the market but there isn't a more widely used oil than Shell Rotella T. Its been in more trucks with a million miles on them than any other oil in history. Pete
 
I am on my second cummins. Rotella-T in both. No problems at all. I tow quite a lot so I change every 3,000. Some will say that is too often but by me doing it myself it keeps the cost way down.

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2001 quadcab slt 2500 HO 6spd. LWB,2wd,dk garnett red, trailer tow package,camper special, anti spin 3. 54 axle, speed liner,oversized stainless steel chicken slide,66 gallon in bed aux. tank,K&N air filter,Reese 20k hitch, Terry 2000 EX 30ft. double slide 5er, 2000 20ft gooseneck for haulin jeep, firewood and huntin stuff. 5X12 tagalong for haulin the 4 wheeler. Okie Newton
 
Always used Rotella-T 15W-40 in my NTC-290 and never had a problem. Running it in the Ram for 40k so far, but...

Just found out about some re-refined stuff from the govt. It's delivered through safety-kleen dealers. 15W-40 CH-4/SJ and Cummins approved.

$11. 73/ 12qts.
$16. 97/ 5gal.
$149. 38/ barrel
bulk(200gal minimum. Got your own oil tank?)$2. 35/gal.

I'll post more details as I find out.

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Y2K Red Stealth Sport 2500 4X4 QC SLT+, 5-spd, 3. 54 anti-spin, 265-75-16 LTX’s (There ain’t no such thing as options, cause ya gotta have it all, including: DC’s dead cow/vinyl interior and don’t stop anti-lock brakes. ) Stock, but not for long. Oops, too late. What silencer ring? (More fun than my 98 SST)
 
I didn't like the Rotella T. We had a cold spell here back in December and with the Rotella the engine was considerably louder. There was even a pronounced knocking (different than the motor running, ha, ha) that I could hear inside the cab when the engine was started cold with the Rotella. The pour point on the Rotella is only -13. One good thing I found with the Rotella is that it wasn't very smelly.

I'm running Delvac 1300 now. Quiter than the Rotella when cold, but much smellier.
 
To each his own... for me, I'll stick with Delo 400 15W40. I purchase by the 55 gallon drum and use it in every vehicle I own. No smell (changed location of the crankcase breather which probably made the difference)and my engines don't use any oil between changes. Find what works best for you and stay with it.
 
I am performing schedule B and Delo 400 15W40 is my choice for engine oil.
I have stock breather and as far as smell goes, it is only noticeable for the first hundred miles. Not the 300 or 400 miles mentioned with other brands of oils.

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<font color=forestgreen>2000</font> DODGE <font color=forestgreen>RAM</font>, <font color=forestgreen>2500 HD</font>, 4x4 SLT, Reg. Cab, <font color=forestgreen>Forest Green</font>, Agate interior, Cummins ISB, Auto, Shift-on-the-Fly (241HD), 4. 10 Anti-slip Rear, ABS, Trailer Tow Group, Camper Group, Michelin; DC: Fog Lights Kit, Tow Rings, Under Rail Bedliner, VentVisors, Splash Guards, Cold Weather Cover, & Mats.
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[This message has been edited by BigDaddy (edited 01-25-2001). ]
 
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Cooker, does Delvac 1300 meet diesel spec? I thought Delvac 1 was Mobil's only synthetic oil that could be used on the Cummins. Many synthetics don't meet spec.
 
I have used both the Rotella T and the Delo 400. The local costco always has one or the other in 6 gal cases. I think I am going to stick with the Delo because it seems to stink less than the delo.


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John D. Rathert Jr.
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01 2500 SLT+ QC LWB 4x4 Auto 3. 54 rear end, Forrest Green Sport with all options avail. DC Nerf Bars, DC Grill Gard, DC mud flaps, Line-X bed liner, Leer 160XL Topper, Power Edge, EZ Edge, SPA Boost/EGT Gauge on pillar mount, DDT's torque converter - valve body combo, 275 RV injectors and Diesel Dynamics 4" Exhaust.
Airbox Mods, new turbo and SS fuel lines in planning stages... .

See My Truck

Dads truck: 98. 5 3500 SLT QC LWB 4x4
Brother Truck: 92 W250 SLT CC LWB 4x4 (Dads old truck)

See 5 Diesels and a Gasser
Winter fun: 2000 Skidoo Summit 700
************
FREE HVAC!!
 
Delo is superior to Rotella in independant tests.

Synthetics are superior to Dino oil when all things are considered. The only negative to synthetics is the cost. If you can afford to buy a $40,000. 00 truck, you can afford synthetics.

Use dino oil until around 10k miles, depending on how much towing/working the motor you do. Then synthetics at that point.

But if you use good dino oil, and change at 3000 miles w/o fail, you should be able to get a good long life out of the motor. Synthetics just give more peace of mind, and give additional insurance.

Cheers

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Reformed Powerjoke owner, 2000 model, 3500, SLT, Quad-cab, 5 speed, 4. 10, 4X4, straight piped.

N7PXH

NRA member
 
So much for helping the enviornment. I was sold on the re-refined oil deal until...

You add in the shipping costs. If you lived near a distributor it would be a good deal, but I can buy fresh Rotella-T locally for about the same total cost as the re-refined plus freight.

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Y2K Red Stealth Sport 2500 4X4 QC SLT+, 5-spd, 3. 54 anti-spin, 265-75-16 LTX’s (There ain’t no such thing as options, cause ya gotta have it all, including: DC’s dead cow/vinyl interior and don’t stop anti-lock brakes. ) Stock, but not for long. Oops, too late. What silencer ring? (More fun than my 98 SST)

[This message has been edited by RKohn (edited 01-29-2001). ]
 
Round # 5,376... .

Although this may be a poor analogy, Synthetic oil is to conventional oil... . what radial tires are to bias ply.

Radial tires were engineered to outlast and provide better fuel mileage than its counterpart. BUT, we all know they cost more INITIALLY. So, are they worth it over the duration of its life?

Well, how many of you use radials??? Why? wouldn't it be cheaper to spend less and replace em more often? After all, radials are too expensive!!

Synthetic lubricants are the same in that they are engineered to produce a product with PLANNED and PREDICTABLE properties/results. Synthetics are custom-designed in which each phase of their molecular construction is programmed to produce what may be called "the ideal lubricant. " This process departs significantly from that of petroleum lubricants, whose physical components, both desirable and undesirable, are inherited from the crude oil from which they are refined. Crude oil possesses thousands of varieties of contaminants, depending upon the oil's geographical and geological origins, which no amount of refining can entirely remove. Corrosive acids, paraffins, waxes, heavy metals, asphalt, naphthenes and benzenes, as well as countless compounds of sulfur, chlorine, and nitrogen, remain in the finished product.

Because synthetics contain ZERO contaminants. . think for a moment how long it can be used before accumulating an equal amount of contaminants... Conventional oil STARTS out with from the bottle?

When you begin to understand these concepts, The idea of a "SO CALLED" extended interval becomes quite clear. You begin to realize that you are not "extending" synthetics any further than its conventional counterpart.

And, because of its inherent properties, your fuel mileage increases, thus offsetting the initial purchase price.

Kinda like tires, you replace a radial at the same tread depth... as you would a bias ply tire. The difference between the two is how long it lasted and what it cost you over the life of the product. The other benefits to a radial is increased comfort and traction... . But I don't know how to put a price on those two... I'll leave that up to you.

OH, and for those who think I'm somehow peddling synthetics, and/or trying to justify its cost through extended intervals... I haven't, nor will I ever see a dime from anyone here who may decide to use synthetics. So what do I have to gain if YOU use the product? Only that little smiley face you will most likely post after 6 months to a year of using the stuff. When you see what it has to offer over its conventional counterpart.

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98. 5' 24v 2500 Auto/3. 54 4x4 SB QC 285-75-16's on Alcoa's. Everything but leather. PIAA 1200's, AMSOIL dual filter relocation system, Smittybuilt Stainless Steel Nerfs, Rhino Liner(Junk), K&N air filter(For Sale)15 year AMSOIL dealer. Time permitting, Soon to include Ultra-lite Pyro,0-50lbs boost, Trans temp in the pillar. Rancho 9000's with in cab adjustment.
 
Tough question, Vette's come from the factory with Synthetics. IMO, I would wait till around 10K if you tow, 15K-20K if you don't. These are common numbers from the Diesel experts who feel the 5. 9 is pretty much broke in by these mile estimates. Guess like anything we could argue forever about it. I switched mine at 20K. No magic, just thought that was a good number.

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98. 5' 24v 2500 Auto/3. 54 4x4 SB QC 285-75-16's on Alcoa's. Everything but leather. PIAA 1200's, AMSOIL dual filter relocation system, Smittybuilt Stainless Steel Nerfs, Rhino Liner(Junk), K&N air filter(For Sale)15 year AMSOIL dealer. Time permitting, Soon to include Ultra-lite Pyro,0-50lbs boost, Trans temp in the pillar. Rancho 9000's with in cab adjustment.
 
Good enough... Thanks for all of your input. 20,000 here we come.

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2001. 5 QC,LB,5spd... 4X4 Patriot Blue.
Mother Made Ya, Mother F#@$ YA
 
Once again DEEZELMAN,You nailed it! I have been using synthetics for 8 years. i know what a diferrence they make. I had a VW jetta with 410K on it that finnaly was wrecked by my son or it would probably still be running!Those of us that have experience with them know. I just talked to a friend with a 99 cummins about syn. and him was very proud of the fact he only pays 1 buck a quart for his oil at Costco. To each his own!
I dont have the bypass system on my truck and would appreciate your input on it. I am thinking about adding it this spring. Thanks again for reading my mind, Dave

98. 24V, QC,SWB,5sp,BD,Exhaust, brake, power modual,gauges,315's onultra alloys,with rancho9's,the new cummins badges,pioneer head unit.
 
Originally posted by davedd:
Once again DEEZELMAN,You nailed it! I have been using synthetics for 8 years. i know what a diferrence they make. I had a VW jetta with 410K on it that finnaly was wrecked by my son or it would probably still be running!Those of us that have experience with them know. I just talked to a friend with a 99 cummins about syn. and him was very proud of the fact he only pays 1 buck a quart for his oil at Costco. To each his own!
I dont have the bypass system on my truck and would appreciate your input on it. I am thinking about adding it this spring. Thanks again for reading my mind, Dave

98. 24V, QC,SWB,5sp,BD,Exhaust, brake, power modual,gauges,315's onultra alloys,with rancho9's,the new cummins badges,pioneer head unit.
If you want a dual bypass for half my cost and extra filters I only put 5 miles on mine. Truck was recked and repaired and I don't think that I will keep it much longer after I get my settlement.
mike B.
 
I won't argue against the fact that synthetics are the better oils on the market.
To get the full benifit out of synthetics your truck must be set up with proper filtration(by-pass filter). More oil lines,aluminum cast housing,extra filter and seal,all the more things to go wrong.

Changing your oil every 3000miles does give your engine clean oil and a fresh stratapore filter.

Rotella T also makes a synthetic blend (10w40)for the colder months, better pour point,better start up in cold temps.
Difinetly has the additive that makes that short term smell.
After all would you kick out a good looking woman for makin a little smell after each oil change? Ahh, probably grin and bear it.
 
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