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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Which plate, 0 or 4?

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2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission coil spring help?

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I agree... but the H1C/HX35 turbine wheel isn't that bad... I stand by the statement that an 18. 5 will outflow a 16cm... you MIGHT run into diminishing returns w/ a 21cm but mainly because the compressor side won't come close to providing the oxygen necessary to make that 21cmwork



also, once exhaust "stacks up", don't you think there's a steady flow of pressurized exhaust gas pushing through that scroll? :confused:



is TST the same place that tried to sell you a #0 plate to replace your home ground #0 plate because theirs was better? :-laf
 
I've never run back to back runs with 16 vs 18. 5 housing. A larger housing will spool slower no matter what, but if the peak boost each will provide is the same than obviously the wheel is the cork. I will agree the 21 is oversized for the small compressor, EGT's will actually probably be higher due to lack of boost.

I've never seen a TST 0 plate so I don't know if it's better or not. No one ever posts pics of their plates, if I bought a plate from TST the first thing I'd do is take pics and post it.
 
realize that with the compressor side left open, there would be nothing but the weight and friction of the rotating assembly of the turbo to act as a restriction... to the point of bearing failure due to overspeed obviously...



BUT, by your logic, with the turbine wheel being the only restriction once you get above a 16cm housing, so... since the compressor side is seeing the same engine w/ the same cylinder head CFM, air filter, fueling, etc, the ONLY difference being the turbine housing size, since there is no difference in exhaust flow between a 16cm and 21cm housing max boost should be the same for either one...



wanna place a large wager on that? :confused:
 
Matt, I'm just wondering why you posted this at all. :confused: Seems like every time someone answers one of your questions, all you want to do is argue with them. :-{} If you already know all the answers, why the post? :rolleyes:



Scott
 
BigPapa said:
Matt, I'm just wondering why you posted this at all. :confused: Seems like every time someone answers one of your questions, all you want to do is argue with them. :-{} If you already know all the answers, why the post? :rolleyes:



Scott





Well, no one has actually answered my question and gave a reason to go with one plate over the other. I asked about torque plates not turbine housings but since this thread is so off topic I could understand why you think I'm arguing about it.
 
mhuggler . . i scrolled back to see what your original question was but didn't see your post... i am sorry if i messed Your thread up with turbine sizes... . as for plates. . I have a#4 that i was told not to install till i had a big clutch. . and a few stock plates from 215 pumps and a half ground 8. 3C series plate my understanding is a 0 plate is the biggest you can go with out removing the plate. I know a few that run no plate and have had no problems with there pumps. . so if you want gusto buy a 0 plate... to get as much fuel as you can with a plate. .

thanks

Deo
 
i dont think it is going to matter what plate you go with. either plate is going to run hot with 8000lbs in tow. i had both plates on my 95. the #4 plate i could control the egts more with my right foot. the 0 plate was kinda all or nothing. if your going to tow i would go with a #6 plate. the #6 plate gives you good control over egts. when i had my 95 i had both a 16 and 18. 5 housing. the 16 made a little difference (75*-100*) in egt reduction. the 18. 5 housing made a little more difference (another 50*-75*) in egts. i did like the 18. 5 a little more than the 16. i think the choice is up to you. how do you want your truck to act when towing? do you want full fuel all the time or do you want a little control? richard
 
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