Which Ram would you get?

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I am looking to get another CTD Ram in addition to the one I already have in the next few months. Since 98. 5 the only choice has been the 24V, but IF you had a choice, would you prefer the 24V or 12V engine. I don't have any experience in how the 24V runs or performs. I am willing to buy new or used. I know guys may be biased to the 12V on this forum but please give me your honest opinion based strictly on the engine only and not the improvements on the rest of the truck since 98.

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1996 3500 Clubcab SLT, auto, 4. 10 limited-slip, TST #5, 370s, AFC spring kit, Psycotty, Dunrite converter, Trans-Go, Straight pipe, DiPricol EGT, boost & trans temp. gauges, 9 ft. aluminum flatbed and tool boxes with Venco dump. Custom front bumper, Hadley air horn.

 

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Just looking at the way fuel prices are going lately I'd opt for a 12 valve.

 

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I like the 12 valve for it's simplicity. It's easy to upgrade if you wish with no complex electronics. I also like the fuel pump, it's the best one they ever used on a pickup truck. If in a few years they come out with the "last" Cummins in a pickup, I'll get one but I already told my wife that I'll keep this one too. I think it will always be a "Classic".

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Ron

'96 Club Cab 2500 4x4, 4:10LS, Camper/Tow package, Auto, BD Pressure Loc, Mystery Switch, TST 230/605, Cummins Chrome, Mag-Hytec rear and trans covers, Boost, Pyro and trans gauges, Optima Red Tops, All black. Tow 14k HitchHiker triple glide 5th Wheel. Also use 9. 5' Lance camper. NRA Life Member.

 

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Both have there pro and cons. 12 valve is basic. Since you have one already you would know about any problems that could occur. Its easier and cheaper to bomb. It comes with cat.
24 Vavle need to be elctonically bombed. No cat. Base engine has more horses and torgue at top end. More sensors and connections to mess running of injector pump/engine up.

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Missouri Mule 96 White 4X4 ST club cab,(grey int. ),5 spd, 3. 54 reg dif, 8 ft bed, 1 ft high cheater boards, front and side of bed,Pofile V bug shield,
99 Freight liner FL60 blue Cummins 24v 215 hp, 520 torgue,6 spd 3. 59 no spin rear, 16 ft dry box (white) 19. 5 low profile tires,Weight 11,000, gvw 23000, 11 to 12 mpg
Bill Thomas (Wild Bill)

 

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Low mile 96 or 97 5 speed. Take advantage of Father Cummins best 12V pumps. #ad

 

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KOA MAN, I too am looking to purchase another CTD and have asked myself the same questions. The answers that I've come to so far, reflects what others have replied to you on this post. I've choose to look for a 98, 12 valve, the reason being I would like the 4 door option. To me the simplicity and familiarity of the 12 valve over the 24 was my deciding factor for staying with the 12 valve. I would assume that either engine is as durable as the other and as trouble free. However, if you plan on doing your own maintenance and repair work for the truck, I would then stick with the 12 valve. The reason being less electronics to deal with. Also having the same engines requires less inventory in your garage for servicing. Also when doing diagnostics for repair it's nice to have another "parts" truck to help verify the needed repair. So I guess one of you deciding factors will be whether you plan on doing your own repairs or farming them out to a shop. If you plan on farming out the repairs on the truck then I would not concern myself with which engine is under the hood, as long as it is the Cummins. #ad

 

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DBR,
I do the work that I can handle. I just adjusted valves, changed injectors and AFC spring kit this past Saturday. I agree being familiar with the 12V is a help, but I am willing to own both IF the 24V is much superior to the 12V. If reliability after bombing of the 24V is the same or only marginally better than the 12V, then I would be inclined to stick with the familiar engine. Ease of maintenance will be another factor in making my choice. I appreciate the replies so far and especially looking for those that have owned both.

 

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Koa Man:

I posted a response to your question in
the "24 Valve and Drivetrain" area and
then came over here to see you had posted
here too.

To add to what I posted in "24 Valve".
I agree with Dieselnerd. The design of
the 12 Valve with the P7100 pump is simple.
I am not yet sold on all the "electronics"
on the 24 Valve engine. The way I understand
it if the VP44 pump on the 24 Valve fails
that pump has pretty much got to be replaced. I know one new 24 Valve owner who
has "BOMBED" his truck, has had a total pump
failure already and now carries a brand new
VP44 punp with him when he travels so he
won't be stranded! The P7100 pump is "cooled" by oil and fuel. The VP44 is "cooled" only by fuel. I travel to areas where I am MILES away from the
nearest DC dealer. Usually a Cummins certified shop is not as far away and
most of these shops know alot about the P7100 pump.

Hope this helps you!

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Red '96 4x4 2500 Auto 3. 54, TST #5, Pump Mods, Banks Exhaust, Prime Loc, Cummins Chrome Kit, Pro-Torque Converter, BD Valve Body, Sendel 16" Alum Wheels w/ 33" BFGs

 

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I've owned 2 12 valves and this new ETH and I don't think you can go wrong with either one of them!The cost to bomb is cheaper on a 12 valve. $300 for a torque plate from Jannetty Racing is cheaper then just about anyones box,plus with the break away screws that are included in the kit no one can tell you were ever in the pump. The cost of the exhaust,air filter and gauges is going to be the same on either engine. Good luck finding what you want!
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2001 3500 ETH/DEE, Black and loaded, chief transportation for two hayburners.

 

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12 valve, for sure. Was just over on the 24v forum, and after reading some of the threads over there, I'm more sure than ever that 12v is the ONLY way to go.

 

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Regardless which way you go both engines are very well designed. For me it's the hassel with the electronics not the basic power plant. Every problem I've had has been electrial and I an't got no PH'D in electrical so I pay the pro's to fix it. Good luck in finding what you want. Stephen W. in Sanger CA.

 

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Since I sold my '92 in the late spring, I had the opportunity to look at, drive, compare and price quite a lot of Cummins powered trucks. As it went, The list went from '96 12 valvers, to brand new '01 ETH/DEE's.
I selected the last of the 12 valves, a '98.
For all the right reasons. P7100, and no fly by wire.
Each one of us will weigh the options of each, and make our choice.
Have fun.

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'98 Cummins 12v, Big Medicine. Got Diesel.
http://www.ecpe.vt.edu/~dfritz/RIDES/frank_s/classic92.htm

 

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I have both. I use my 96 for towing-get 13 at 60 pulling 13,000 lbs. I though about a new (2001) 3500 but decieded to keep the 96 as its paid for, has only 110,000 miles and is cheaper to keep upgrading. I keep thinking about starting to bomb my 99 but keep putting my money in the 96- next is a 90 gal fuel yank/tool combo. OK I'LL wrap it up-stick with the 12 valve.

 

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After looking at the responses on both the 24V & 12V forums, I think I will try and find a clean 98 12V QC 5 spd. and bomb the hell out of it with the money saved from buying new. Although I feel that the 24V is an excellent motor, I don't particularly like all the electronics and computer controls. Another factor was reading how DC is trying to screw people out of warranty service for mods that have nothing to do with the failed part. I don't want to wait for the warranty to run out before bombing and don't want to have to take a tube of K-Y jelly every time I have to go to the dealer.

 

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I've driven: '92, '93, '94, '95, '98, '99, '00, '01, even an FL60 24 valve. If I was U, I would go ahead and get a 24valve and then you can have both! If you do, I recommend the new HO w/6spd... Them babies nice! But, if you want a real goat, get a '93! LOL. It's your decision man, go drive 'em and follow your heart! have fun

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Mine: '93 250 LE 4x4 5spd 4:10 Pwr win/loc/mir,cruise,strait piped,12cm2 turbo,pyro/boost,diamond plate tool box, CB, 16x10" AR rims, 285/75/16 Bf goodrich, US Gear E-Brake,Fuller Roadranger shifter, PW injectors, K&N. "wirenut_21529" on Yahoo Messenger
Moms:'96 Ford B-Series school bus (5. 9 Cummins!)I'm gonna Bomb it!
Dads:'94 GMC 2500 6. 5L Turbo

 

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98, 12 valve, 5sp. - great choice. You won't be sorry!

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97 3/4Ton, 2WD, 5SP, #11 Plate, 14 Housing, AF942M Air filter, Gutted Cat, 4"From Turbo, Airlift, Shortened Frame, Custom Bed, HEY FORDBOY POWERSTROKE THIS!