Who had the Coldest start. How did it go?

[JFaughn]

The other day , -20 *F , truck was in garage , moving blanket over eng & plugged in , it had a short ruff start .
Now I'm thinking that have a dash mounted sw. for the grid relays may be an idea , just because its plugged in , does not mean that there is going to be hot air in the intake for better starts in the real sub zero temps .

 

[hwebster]

Cold Starts - Extreme Situations

Still no issues firing up my 2008 6. 7L. My '93 certainly challenged me on more than one occasion. One particularly nasty trip to Edmonton was so cold and 0W30 oil hadn't been invented yet. My only choice, because there we no plugins, was to start the old girl up every hour and run her.

Other times, due to the intensity of the wind chill, I resorted to covering the engine with moving blankets at night. Two key issues were the fluidity of the oil and the cranking power of the battery. The Grid beats the Glow Plugs hands down. If the block was warm enough to keep the oil moving and the battery had enough juice she always fired up.

I once had a TransAm that wouldn't start, we have a sudden cold snap to -40*C and I hadn't changed out the oil. I had to get a hibachi BBQ and put it under the oil pan to warm the oil up enough to start her upl (Never made that mistake)

It seems in the course of this discussion there are a few points

1 - Oil viscosity - if you've got 15W40 on a brutally cold day the block heater probably won't help much.

2 - Battery - if the battery is weak and really cold and the oil is just to thick, it's gonna take a long time to get her going.

3 - If 1 and 2 aren't an issue, timing might be...

Cheer...

 

[courierdog]

Firstly, the type of engine oil used has a huge factor, the older dyno oils as opposed to the newer synthetic types.
Second how long and or how often the grid heaters are cycled.
Third type of fuel used (winter, vs summer or biodiesel)
A diesel should fire on the first cylinder if it does not then start over with the grid heaters. Same goes for engines with glow plugs.
I have started many types of diesel engines over the past 40 years and the rules do not change.
If the oil is not frozen, If the fuel is not frozen or gelled if the cylinder has heat (Grid heater or Glow plug) The first cylinder will fire regardless of temperature to -50 Celsius.
My daughter is now learning about Glow Plug fuses and Summer BioDiesel with here 2001 VW and she only has to deal with -10C in Toronto as opposed to our typical -20 to -30 C here in Alberta.
The only Cummins I have ever seen having difficulty starting are the ones where the people jump in and start cranking instead of cycling the grid heaters enough times for the temperature conditions.

 

[LowFly]

Yesterday. .

Truck sat for about 16-17hrs over night low -27F. 15w40 (I know, I know). Red Top's new last year. Not plugged in. Power Service added to fuel. Walked outside... now its -22F cycled grids once and cranked, (kinda) for about 2 seconds. Stretched an extension cord out and plugged it in and hooked up battery charger. I tried again 2 hrs later, kicked the charger up to 50 amp, cycled the grids twice and it started, puking out power steering fluid all over and blowing the fuse on the FASS before I could get it in the shop to warm it up with the LB White.

I need. .

1) Advice from WDaniels to winterize for really cold weather

2) Larry B's starter contacts. . @ 91,xxx mine are due for new ones

3) 200 amp alternator. . help recharge batterys so I dont have to drive around for an hour after every cold start

4) Better Batterys? Odysseys???

5) Some way to keep the FASS from popping the fuse when its really cold out (could be more directly related to voltage drop and increased amp draw, and not so much cold, waxing fuel) Others in my area with same treated fuel but no Fass having NO fuel related trouble at same temps.

6) Other suggestions?

Thanks, Jim

What amp fuse in your harness?

 

[steved]

Firstly, the type of engine oil used has a huge factor, the older dyno oils as opposed to the newer synthetic types.

Some of the newer dino oils have better cold pour point numbers than their predecessors... still not quite a synthetic, but better than the old dino stuff.



steved

 

[jtisdale]

What amp fuse in your harness?

15 amp.

I updated the harness with the relay last year when I had this problem.

Other than really cold weather, the Fass works beautifully.

 

[JasonCzerak]

umm, define brutally cold? -20F (almost -30C) with my block heater and blanket closed. Truck turns over like a 90 degree day and idles at 750 with ease. Heck, hte grids only cycle for 15 seconds if that.



Tho, once running they do cycle at idle for a few minutes.



Amsoil 15w-45 here (since 20,000 miles).



I did have 5w-40 in the truck for one oil change during the winter and did have to do a cold un-plugged start. It was DRASTICALLY easier then with 15w-45.



Tho, I was pushing blue smoke out the tail pipe with this (5w-40 amsoil) oil and you could smell burning oil (like from a gasser with a leaky valve seat) until the truck warmed up. After I connected the dots, I switched back to 15w-45 and with in 2 oil changes I don't burn anymore oil. Assuming it was getting by the exhaust side of the turbo.



So beware of going thinner in the winter. especially on a truck you harass the go-peddle a lot.

 

[jtisdale]

As I write this, its -27. 9F. The truck has been plugged in for what will be almost 6hrs when I need to start it (in about another half hour). Same fuel as last Sunday, cept its got 911 in it now. I really have no doubt it will start, but I wonder about the Fuse in my FASS... and the poor power steering pump:-laf

 

[Highfinance97]

the poor power steering pump:-laf

Switch to Synthetic


Michael

 

[jtisdale]

stick a fork in it, I think its done

Truck started without a hitchOo. However, the fuel pressure started dropping and then finally blew the fuse. Put another fuse in and it blew. Shut the truck off, drained the fuel at the seperator, and its nice and fluid. I am going to pull the filters for inspection.

 

[ROADWARRIOR]

Did you check the FASS brushes? Did Diesel Dan have any ideas?

 

[LowFly]

Truck started without a hitchOo. However, the fuel pressure started dropping and then finally blew the fuse. Put another fuse in and it blew. Shut the truck off, drained the fuel at the seperator, and its nice and fluid. I am going to pull the filters for inspection.

If its constantly blowing fuses, somthing is not right. You might open up the pump and look at the gear and gear base for any sign of ware. I only suggest this due to you have the older pump that has no wnty seal on it.



Another thing is wire connections. At the fuse holder or at the battery. Make sure all are clean and tight.



Might call your dealer with your serial number. Have them call me and we might have some options for you.

 

[jtisdale]

-23 again this morning



Filters were fine, fuel was not thick or waxy appearing. Brushes are fine. Metered the harness, its fine. The motor ohmed at . 4. I called Rip and he talked to Dan? at Fass who figures either my fuel was too thick to pump or the motor is getting tired. I have a few options, need to research a little more.

As for now, I know I cant rely on my truck when it has to sit outside for a length of time if the temp. gets below

-15F.

 

[jtisdale]

Hi Dan, we must have been posting at the same time It only blows the fuse when the ambient temp is ~-20F and colder. Its really got me puzzled, especially since the fuel appears to be absolutley fine. On nights when it stays warmer than -20 or so, I dont have any trouble. It must be like you told Rip yesterday, the fuel is thicker and the pump being older it draws more amperage than it should and blows a fuse.

I need to call Bill today, I'll see if he will call you.

Thanks, Jim

 

[Champane Flight]

-20

Hi Dan, we must have been posting at the same time It only blows the fuse when the ambient temp is ~-20F and colder. Its really got me puzzled, especially since the fuel appears to be absolutley fine. On nights when it stays warmer than -20 or so, I dont have any trouble. It must be like you told Rip yesterday, the fuel is thicker and the pump being older it draws more amperage than it should and blows a fuse.

I need to call Bill today, I'll see if he will call you.

Thanks, Jim

Go to a lower filter micron, your fuel is probably right on cloud point at -20, filter restriction. . We used to put a trouble lights under filter cases and tanks on our rigs when it got down to -40 -50 and we did not have #1 fuel to mix.

 

[steved]

Sounds like the increased cold is causing more resistance in the FASS (stressing the motor)... the grid heater pulling voltage down is increasing the amperage on the circuit to the FASS, and it is surpassing what the fuse can take...

steved