Who had the 'Dead Pedal' issue on the 2014?

[bigblock_doc]

As I've told before, I had it to the dealer over ten times, but they never opened a bill. Only went out with the computer
and hooked it up and no code found. I've made a complaint to Chrysler and have a number, which is out is the truck
right now. Dealer said the same thing, that I'm the only complaint on this. Well 80,000 miles later from the the
original of 45,000 still no better. Now out of warranty by 27,000 miles. Guess its my problem now. Made the complaint
one year ago.

 

[Bill]

When the dead pedal kicks in, I have never gotten a code thrown. Nothing lights up on the screens, etc. I don't let the dealer play that "no code - no problem" game with me. I got the phone # out of the owners manual.

Refer the dealer to this site and tell him to READ it. Did Chrysler close your claim before or after the warranty ran out. If they closed it before then I still think you have some recourse to fall back on. Make up some black metal signs with a magnet on it and paint a bright yellow lemon on it. Just keep driving through the dealers lot until he forces you to stop. THEN, park the truck as close to the dealer as possible - drive it all around town. Take pictures of it and send them to Chrysler. Send e-mail to the National News media. Just don't give up.

 

[bigblock_doc]

He said he didn't close it, but at 96,000 when he last checked for codes he said he would back date
if anything came up in the future. Will get number from my book and call today.

 

[sag2]

When the dead pedal kicks in, I have never gotten a code thrown. Nothing lights up on the screens, etc. I don't let the dealer play that "no code - no problem" game with me. I got the phone # out of the owners manual.

Refer the dealer to this site and tell him to READ it. Did Chrysler close your claim before or after the warranty ran out. If they closed it before then I still think you have some recourse to fall back on. Make up some black metal signs with a magnet on it and paint a bright yellow lemon on it. Just keep driving through the dealers lot until he forces you to stop. THEN, park the truck as close to the dealer as possible - drive it all around town. Take pictures of it and send them to Chrysler. Send e-mail to the National News media. Just don't give up.

Sounds like a really good way to get things handled. In my 30 years of hanging around dealers they usually just think your some wacko. If you really have a problem and have demonstrated to the dealer they will generally go out of their way to correct it. You will usually have much better luck with a more moderate approach. So far it sounds like your way isn't getting you too far.

 

[Bob4x4]

I work on CTDs every day and have not had any dead pedal concerns on 13 or 14's.I have been trying to experience it on the test drives I take in the normal course of my work,so far nothing.They do launch a bit different than older trucks under wot .

 

[Bill]

Oh I talk a good talk. However, I would never put a lemon sign on any vehicle, although I've seen some that have had it on their vehicles. However, when you can't get the problem solved, one has to resort to something legal that forces the dealer and manufactures to assist the customer until the problem/s are indeed fixed.

Yes, I really do have the D/Pedal problem but so far I can not get my truck to just suddendly go into that mode when I take it to the dealership. It's kinda of like having a weird sound coming from someplace on the truck. Take it to the dealer and you can't then hear it. Although, I would be interested if anybody on the forum has actually had this happen while their truck was at the dealer and if so, what did they do, if anything?

I can duplicate my auto transmission problem at the dealer. When they hear this loud clunking sound while the truck is parked, my foot on the brake and I shift through all the gears, one would swear the transmission fell onto the pavement. And, they say it's normal. Well if that's normal then why didn't it happen when I first bought the truck and just started a few weeks ago. And only now having 1985 miles on it. Additionally, since I had the truck in for this problem, it has become worse.

 

[DonFitzwater]

I work on CTDs every day and have not had any dead pedal concerns on 13 or 14's.I have been trying to experience it on the test drives I take in the normal course of my work,so far nothing.They do launch a bit different than older trucks under wot .

Try easing forward with very light throttle (as if you were approaching an intersection while in a turn lane) and let off the throttle for 1-2 seconds. Immediately hit the throttle to accelerate and see what happens. I've pretty much got my truck figured out as to when it'll do it but every now and then, BAM! It'll just take forever to get moving.

 

[MJWenrich]

Yes. Just what Fitz says. I find if I am leaving an intersection without a turn, it is much smoother and less of the lag. But if I am turning and slightly decrease pressure, or I have not left first gear, it balks. Same as when going to pass. You pull out to see if it's safe, usually having to decrease speed/pedal a little and then experience 2 seconds of dead pedal. Maybe Bob has not experienced this because we can't get by the service department with our complaint? We get the "We have nothing on file with this problem" explanation like I got. With no fix and no code, what could they do anyway? That's why we need an open case with Ram on this problem. Exasperating!!!!!!

Mike

 

[bigblock_doc]

Mine really happens at anytime. It did it from a dead stop twice. But driving around 50 to 70 with EB on ease off the throttle just a bit, but not
all the way, hold it there for a second or two, then the sound of EB starts and you press the pedal down and nothing.
I can now make it do at will. That's why I've turned off the EB. Everything fine now. When I get a chance I'll go back, have them hook
up the computer and go for a ride. Also the recall for the tie rod end, still waiting for the call, only been 9 months.
Gee, a safety kind of recall, a tie rod end, and no parts available. What's going on with this one?????

 

[Bob4x4]

Try easing forward with very light throttle (as if you were approaching an intersection while in a turn lane) and let off the throttle for 1-2 seconds. Immediately hit the throttle to accelerate and see what happens. I've pretty much got my truck figured out as to when it'll do it but every now and then, BAM! It'll just take forever to get moving.

I'll try that next time I have to test drive one

 

[Newsa]

No dead pedal on mine with the g56. Mine's a 2013

 

[bigblock_doc]

Finally set some codes. One was P2262. Dealer said it was the death code for the turbo. But since its over
130,000, he can't help me in any way. Already filed with the feds. Hope something comes into play soon.

 

[EDankievitch]

I was doing some reading in the owners manual... Seems there is something in the engine control programing to protect you and the truck. Seems if you mash the throttle (they did not say how much you have to push the throttle down to mash it) Let off it then re-mash it again the engine will de- rate. The idea is that the second time that you mash the throttle it was a mistake that you really were shooting for the break and missed. Or hit both the break and throttle at the same time. It's to prevent you from powering further into harms way. I have tried this and the truck will react as many of you have described in this post. Though not to the extent as some have found. I find if you back off the throttle let it idle for half a second then re hit it all is good and it will go as normal. While I can almost understand the idea behind this feature living here in NY with our traffic where you have to sometime jump up then wait for your opening then jump into traffic it's not such a good idea. But understanding that it's there has kept me from falling into it's de-rate trap. I think some software engineer has too much time on his hands and has over thought this creating something that we really don't need or want. KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!

 

[Deleted member 995608]

I was doing some reading in the owners manual... Seems there is something in the engine control programing to protect you and the truck. Seems if you mash the throttle (they did not say how much you have to push the throttle down to mash it) Let off it then re-mash it again the engine will de- rate. The idea is that the second time that you mash the throttle it was a mistake that you really were shooting for the break and missed. Or hit both the break and throttle at the same time. It's to prevent you from powering further into harms way. I have tried this and the truck will react as many of you have described in this post. Though not to the extent as some have found. I find if you back off the throttle let it idle for half a second then re hit it all is good and it will go as normal. While I can almost understand the idea behind this feature living here in NY with our traffic where you have to sometime jump up then wait for your opening then jump into traffic it's not such a good idea. But understanding that it's there has kept me from falling into it's de-rate trap. I think some software engineer has too much time on his hands and has over thought this creating something that we really don't need or want. KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!

I couldn't find any info in the online 2014 manual that explains any of the above.

 

[mrkstrk]

EDankievitch
Where did you find that in the owner's manual please?

 

[Bill]

I was doing some reading in the owners manual... Seems there is something in the engine control programing to protect you and the truck. Seems if you mash the throttle (they did not say how much you have to push the throttle down to mash it) Let off it then re-mash it again the engine will de- rate. The idea is that the second time that you mash the throttle it was a mistake that you really were shooting for the break and missed. Or hit both the break and throttle at the same time. It's to prevent you from powering further into harms way. I have tried this and the truck will react as many of you have described in this post. Though not to the extent as some have found. I find if you back off the throttle let it idle for half a second then re hit it all is good and it will go as normal. While I can almost understand the idea behind this feature living here in NY with our traffic where you have to sometime jump up then wait for your opening then jump into traffic it's not such a good idea. But understanding that it's there has kept me from falling into it's de-rate trap. I think some software engineer has too much time on his hands and has over thought this creating something that we really don't need or want. KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!

There is something that is built into the truck to protect you and the truck. It's a safety thing in case the trucks engine runs away on you, you immediately take your foot off the pedal and push down on the brake with medium pressure. This is suppose to kill or stop the engine. It use to work on my truck but for some odd reason, it just stopped. It goes back to when the Toyota's engines were running away on their cars. Chrysler decided they needed something that, as I said, would kill or stop the engine. I found this out by talking to Chrysler but they deny that it is not working on my truck. So like others on here, I have the engine limp mode, the dead pedal and not a non-working safety measure. IF?? the engine then goes back to normal speed it is okay to then use the pedal to re-gain your speed.

 

[Bill]

NO my approach isn't getting me to far even though I didn't put a picture of a lemon on it. I followed every suggestion Chrysler and the dealer gave me. To no avail.

Four days ago I received an e-mail from the Gen. Mgr telling me to not bring my New Dodge, New Rubicon and new Avalon to "his" dealership to have any service work, warranty work or have the oil changed. He refuses to work on my vehicles. Told me to drive 75 miles to where there is another dealer that is under the same franchise. The Customer satisfaction rep moved on to a different department. Before he left he told me that Chrysler will no longer make any attempts to solve these problems. The dealer has a legal right to kick me off of his property because it IS a franchise. So I've taken a pretty big step backwards. However, the Department of Justice is sending me a packet to fill out and return to them. They said they will take this case on.

You said "If I really have a problem and have demonstrated to the dealer they will generally go out of their way to correct it." First "I DO HAVE PROBLEMS" JUST LIKE MANY OTHERS ON HERE DO!!! Second I have played the Mr. nice guy game with them since Feb of this year when these problems started just shortly I drove the truck off the lot. I have bent over backwards in an attempt to not only help the service mgr figure this out but was also decent to Chrysler. NOW, being told I don't have any problems by Chrysler or the dealer, even though the service manager has driven my truck with me in it and experienced the engine limp mode AND the dead pedal, he said he did not have a clue what the problem was. Additionally called Chrysler and they told him, as they told me, there is no such problems. They can't help me!!!! Strange, it's been on the ABC evening news and you can spend a few hours reading about it on Google. Futhermore, why is the National Traffic Safety Board doing a probe on Chrysler for these problems. I've said it on here many times and I will say it again. I have bought 13 brand new vehicles from this dealership in just over two years. If that isn't being a loyal Dodge customer then you tell me how I should act. A man can only take so much before he has to start fighting back. I'll fight this until I win, lose or it's a draw. So I will play the dealerships game, not step foot on their property, go to this other dealer and stand there and listen to him tell me he can't fix the truck. It will happen!

 

[EDankievitch]

Wow, That's something I would have never expected. I had an issue years ago with the 02 that I used to own. I brought it in for an oil leak , Killer dowel pin issue that they said is not on the 24 valve engines. The service tec does the repair and indexes the cam wrong, lined up the wrong timing marks. Engine runs but very poorly. We went round and round for almost 6 months. Chrysler's, Then Dalmer, attitude was our products are suppior not inferior it must be your problem. Wasn't until I had a huge blow up in the owner's office, one to the point that they called the cops on me did they agree to take the truck back and find me a replacement. Flash forward a few years after Dalmer dumps Chrysler they loose their Franchise, too many complaints against the dealer. I think you have a good case for the Lemmon law with your truck. Don't give up!

 

[Deleted member 995608]

-EDankievitch

Can you pin point where the owners manual talks about the delay throttle please.

 

[Bill]

I was doing some reading in the owners manual... Seems there is something in the engine control programing to protect you and the truck. Seems if you mash the throttle (they did not say how much you have to push the throttle down to mash it) Let off it then re-mash it again the engine will de- rate. The idea is that the second time that you mash the throttle it was a mistake that you really were shooting for the break and missed. Or hit both the break and throttle at the same time. It's to prevent you from powering further into harms way. I have tried this and the truck will react as many of you have described in this post. Though not to the extent as some have found. I find if you back off the throttle let it idle for half a second then re hit it all is good and it will go as normal. While I can almost understand the idea behind this feature living here in NY with our traffic where you have to sometime jump up then wait for your opening then jump into traffic it's not such a good idea. But understanding that it's there has kept me from falling into it's de-rate trap. I think some software engineer has too much time on his hands and has over thought this creating something that we really don't need or want. KEEP IT SIMPLE STUPID!

I just spent the better part of four hours reading through the owners manual and additionally a 700+ page book I got from Chrysler. It is for the 1500, 2500 and 3500 Dodge trucks. I also viewed the CD that came with the rest of the owners manual. There is nothing I read that explains any of these problems other than the ETC light. This light informs you of a problem with the Electronic Throttle Control system. This light should come on when starting the truck. If it doesn't then you are suppose to have it checked out by an authorized dealer. If the light stays on with the engine running, your vehicle will usually be driveable. If the light is flashing with the truck running, immediate service is required. YOU MAY EXPERIENCE "REDUCED PERFORMANCE," AN ELEVATED/ROUGH IDLE OR ENGINE STALL AND YOUR VEHICLE MAY REQUIRED TO BE TOWED. Well this light came on in my truck in March, 2014 and if was flashing. Additionally, the ser. mgr while driving the truck five times also had this light flashing. From time to time it still flashes. However, the service mgr and Chrysler didn't offer any suggestions and that was the end of that debate.

Today I met a guy who lives in the same City I do. Never heard of him before or never heard of his business. A guy from a body shop gave me his name and address. Many many Dodge truck owners go to him because he is suppose to be the best and comes highly recommended. I told him all the problems that I and others on this forum were having. He asked me how many times the ser. mgr had "flashed" my truck. I told him roughly 5-6 times. His response was; "Well Bill once they flash your truck for anything and it creates problems, you will never be able to un-do the damage that was caused by the flashing. What flashing does is to change the software and computer settings. It also can completely erase part of a perfectly good software program. He contined on by saying that our problems can not be fixed due to all of the flashing having been performed. He also said that Chrysler and the dealers know this and the reason they flash or re-flash is due to some engineer thinking there might be a problem later on with the current software so he changes it and then that new info goes into our trucks.

Looking back at some of my RO's in March, April and may, my truck had been flashed prior to the ETC light coming on and blinking. He said that is probably when all of your problems started. Pretty close ~ I had less than 900 miles on the truck before all this junk happened. He continued to tell me to take it to another dealer allthough they probably won't be able to fix anything except perhaps part of my electrical problems but to not hold my breath on that happening.

I asked him if he would mind giving me some names of guys that had their trucks worked on by him. I was looking for references. He gladly gave me names and phone #'s. So far I have only called two. Both of them said they had other problems with their trucks that dealers could not fix but this guy knew right away what the solutions to the problems would be.

So that is all I have to say for now. Still fighting the fight and darn sure won't give up. Tomorrow I am having our Sheriff's department serve "Release of Information" paperwork to my dealer ~ ah X dealer. I could send it through the mail, signature required, but any of his staff personnel could sign for it. This way I will absolutely know he received it. Ser. mgr still refusing to give me the total test results on the APP sensor and refuses to give me some of the RO's I didn't originally receive after working on the truck. Truth be known, I believe there was no test on the sensor and the RO's I want may have ended up in the trash.

BTW, anybody having problems with the auto transmissions like a loud clunking sound when you change gears? The guy I was talking to said (maybe??) this could have something to do with the engine lagging/limp mode but would need to hear if a lot of guys are indeed having transmission problems like mine. My problems started whenever I shifted from D to P. Now it's in every gear. Sounds like the transmission falls out and hit the shop floor. I sent a transmission fluid sample out. Waiting to get the results on that.

I also forgot to mention that during my last phone conversation with my so called new customer satisfaction rep ~ a woman. She informed me that ALL service on my truck had to be performed by an authorized dealer, including having oil and filter changed. BULL! As long as you keep records of it in your owners manual along with the oil/filter receipts, it will not void the warranty. I'm not about to drive 150 miles, round trip, over a mountain pass to my so called new dealer just to have the oil changed when I darn well can do that myself.