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Who has switched 2500 rear wheel cyliders for 3500 units?

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Clinton

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I've been thinking about doing this for a while. Did you notice a difference? Was it worth the $? Dealer wants $43 per cylinder, what did you pay? My rear drums are doing close to nothing now and its not a shoe issue, they're in adjustment but seem not to be getting pushed into the drum very hard. The friction material is as thick as a new set and they're plenty old. Thanks.
 
My rear brakes at 60,000 had very little wear, so I purchased all the required brake harware at Napa and haven't looked back since. The improved braking was well worth the time it took to install the cylinders!
 
Did mine a year ago!! Made a big difference.

I think I paid about $34. 00 each from

www.magauto.com. I buy all my factory parts from them.
 
Is there only one choice of wheel cylinder for the 3500s? Is there a specific year to choose? Are there other parts required, or just the cylinders?



Thanks a lot. ;)



Blake
 
A must do!

I just did mine a few weeks back. Yes, it makes a big difference.



I would get the cylinders from a parts store like NAPA. Search on Rear Wheel Cylinders and you should run across the part numbers. Sam Peterson posted them. At NAPA, they should come up listed for a 1997 Dodge 3500 2WD. Forget the part number. Direct bolt in. I paid $14 per cylinder from NAPA.



jjw

ND
 
It is definitely worth the time and effort. As JJW said, you can get the upgraded cylinders from any parts house, and they should be ~$15.
 
I switched the ones on the wife's truck awhile back. There's not really much if any difference in the price so you might as well do it. One note though, if you get them from NAPA, be sure you ask for the "True stop" wheel cylinders. It's the cheaper line than the "United" stuff but the fact of the matter is there's really no difference in quality.



dan
 
I noticed no difference when I did mine and later found out that some 2500 had the bigger wheel cylinders already. I didnt check the old ones and by the time I had this info they were long gone.

Pepboys about $11. 00
 
I got mine done last month. The mechanic said the 1st cylinder he was sent was the same size as the old one so he sent it back + got the larger bore cylinder - it does make a difference.

Frank
 
I did mine for $17 from napa and would do it a gain in a heartbeat. Chrysler has tsb now to do it and they should have come from from the factory that way from WAAAAAY back.
 
I did the cylinder change last month. Wish I'd done it the day I drove it home new in 1996. Wow. Worth doing. Even helped braking down the west side of Wolf Creek Pass with no exhaust brake.
 
NAPA Part # please

Went to Napaonline.com and looked for wheel cylinders for the 3500 for 1997 and nothing came up ... no part numbers ... nothing. Is there some other name than "wheel cylinders" which this may go by?:confused:
 
Re: NAPA Part # please

Originally posted by FATCAT

Went to Napaonline.com and looked for wheel cylinders for the 3500 for 1997 and nothing came up ... no part numbers ... nothing. Is there some other name than "wheel cylinders" which this may go by?:confused:



I had the same experience with the NAPA website. Strangely, I looked them up on line AFTER I bought the correct cylinders by just walking into the NAPA store. Try the physical method. Walk in and ask for rear cylinders for the one ton version. They should be in stock I have the part numbers--someplace--and I can dig them up if you want. :p
 
Is there a specific model year we need to ask for or will any pre 2001. 5 Ram 3500 rear brake cylinders work? I understand at some point DC started putting the larger cylinders on the 2500's also.
 
Ask for the rear cylinders for a 1995 or 1996 1 ton. Or do it the easy way. Ask for NAPA united Part Number 37290. Oddly, if you do a part number lookup on the NAPA site, that number comes up as what it is.
 
What to order

So what else should one order??? just the left rear and right rear cylinders???? Also where are they located at? How do i put theses in??? any info would be gladly appriciated MY BRAKES SUCK!!
 
The left and right sides use the same cylinders. They are interchangeable, and once you look at them, you will see why. The cylinders mount to the brake backing plate, and they use pistons that push on the brake shoes. To remove and replace the cylinders, you will have to remove the wheel and brake drum, and then remove the brake return springs. You won't have to remove the brake shoes.



The Dodge Technical Service Manual has a good step-by-step procedure for doing the work. The Haynes manual is probably also good. If you have ever worked on drum brakes, you will know exactly what to do.



Once you are done, you will need to bleed the brake lines. If you've never worked on brakes before, it would be good to have help from a friend who has. It's not difficult, but the job has to be done exactly right.



If you are willing to spend the bucks, your dealer can do the work. An independent garage may or may not, even if you show them the Dodge Technical Service Bulletin that authorizes the change.



Before you do this, you should double check that yours did not come with the larger cylinders originally. I don't recall if the change was made in 1997 or 1998. Anybody know?
 
year?

I would also like to know when the change was made before i go out and buy the cylinders..... Im willing to give this fix a try i will go pick up a manual from the local stealer tommarow then see if i can do this, so all your sayin is that i need to get the two cylinders (left and right) and interchange them with instructions through the manual? I really appriciate the help!!
 
I got mine from the Servere brake guys, forgot the comapny name.



My cylinders were the small ones the big ones are only mm's larger, hardly noticable unless they are side by side.



Install took maybe 2 hours (had a stuck drum). About 1 mos haven't checked wear yet.



Noticable better braking, when you stop fast your truck frontend doesn't dive. This was a quick fix. I thinks if you play with the proportioning valve and adjusting you brakes it may do the same but this was brainless and solved the problem. :)



Feels good that the truck isn't trying to get UNDER the car infront of you when stopping.



james
 
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