Whoever thought this one up is an idiot

[Whitewolf]

Since summer hit and I have the windows down, I've heard a squeak when I hit bumps. Didn't matter how small a bump. Had my wife get in the bed and bounce up and down a little, which took a bit because she's so small.

I'm under the truck trying to find the source and the sound is all over the place. Finally traced it down to the right rear shock. As I grab the top of the shock, it moves. Not just the shock, but also the mounting bolt. I pulled the lower bolt and the shock and about 3" of the upper shock bolt came out with the shock. The bolt had broken roughly in half. And it's rusted. Even the end where it had broken was rusted.

Ok, things happen. I don't off road or any of that. I drive and I tow. Truck has a little over 100K on her. Shouldn't have happened, but it did. To clarify a bit, over the frame is welded a 'saddle' that is for, in this case, the front 5th wheel puck on the passenger side. Thru that saddle is the mounting bolt for the shock.

Anyway, locate the head of the bolt on the outside of the frame. It's tight against the frame. I use my impact driver to loosen it. It doesn't budge and I figure it's really rusted. Problem is the socket (21mm) won't fit on the head of the bolt all the way. I'm not getting a good bite.

I look closer and the head of the bolt is TACK WELDED to the frame! Ary you freakin' kidding me!! I look at the other 4 bolt head and they're ALL welded!!

Longer story short, it takes a side grinder with a cut off wheel to remove the head, a torch to heat up the frame around the bolt a long punch and a big freakin' hammer to remove what was left of the bolt. It was rusted like it had been in salt water for 10 years.

Had to order the bolts from Fastenal. $17 each plus shipping. I ordered 2 and it's a good thing I did.

I removed the other shock tonight. Bottom bolt came right out just like the other. Are you ready for this? I was able to get the shock off the the rubber bushing but not the bushing or sleeve that goes over the bolt. I may have to cut the head off that one too.

I have an appointment at the dealership tomorrow for the shifter recall. I'm going to tell them to get the bolt cleaned off. Whatever it takes.

We'll see what happens.

 

[Cummins2014]

Salted roads will wreak havoc , thats what is sounds like to me.

 

[Missouri Mule]

I imagine a lot of members,where they salt the roads and have not had their shock bolts rusted! Manure facture just cheap parts!

 

[KATOOM]

Think positive... At least you got to see your wife jump up and down a bunch of times. Cant remember the last time I had that opportunity.

 

[Cummins2014]

I imagine a lot of members,where they salt the roads and have not had their shock bolts rusted! Manure facture just cheap parts!

Okay, cheap bolts, no other explanation , I should of known . I have a 2014, just been lucky I guess mine haven't broken.

 

[Whitewolf]

I went to the dealer yesterday for the recall updates and one of the mechanics got the rubber bushing and steel insert off. He ended up cutting off the rubber and used a die grinder to cut just enough thru the insert without damaging the bolt. Then used an air chisel to to break it loose off the bolt. What a pain in the a$$ for him.

He showed me what he had done and was pretty happy with himself, as he should be. I was happy too. I didn't have to do it.

He said they had not changed any rear shocks on any newer trucks with a 5th wheel setup. Now he knows what to do. Glad I could help. We talked about using a good anti-seize or wheel bearing grease when I installed the new shocks.

Got my bolts from Fastenal today. $17.10 for each bolt. $19.34 for them to be shipped. WOW!

Anyway, shocks are on and I ended up using the synthetic wheel bearing grease.

When the mechanic and I were talking we both agreed that the initial cause of the break was a faulty bolt. Never should have broken where it did.

The only rust I've found on the truck so far is on those upper shock bolts. Not the lower and not anywhere else.

Hope I don't run into anything unforeseen when I change the front ones next week.

 

[SnoKing]

Don't try to remove a bed bolt. I think the factory has a air gun set and 200+ lbs. And those bolts are the pre loctited kind. I put my own pucks on my 2015. Removing the bed bolts was the hardest step.

 

[sag2]

Retail on the M14x2.0x80 bolts from Mopar are $5.85 each. 1060 dealers stock them.

 

[Whitewolf]

Sag2- Those are for the bottom bolts. And that doesn't include the nuts. Got a new set from my dealer while I was at it. There isn't any available for the top. I guess since the head was welded to the puck saddle which is welded to the frame, they must consider the bolt part of the frame.

 

[Cummins2014]

I went to the dealer yesterday for the recall updates and one of the mechanics got the rubber bushing and steel insert off. He ended up cutting off the rubber and used a die grinder to cut just enough thru the insert without damaging the bolt. Then used an air chisel to to break it loose off the bolt. What a pain in the a$$ for him.

He showed me what he had done and was pretty happy with himself, as he should be. I was happy too. I didn't have to do it.

He said they had not changed any rear shocks on any newer trucks with a 5th wheel setup. Now he knows what to do. Glad I could help. We talked about using a good anti-seize or wheel bearing grease when I installed the new shocks.

Got my bolts from Fastenal today. $17.10 for each bolt. $19.34 for them to be shipped. WOW!

Anyway, shocks are on and I ended up using the synthetic wheel bearing grease.

When the mechanic and I were talking we both agreed that the initial cause of the break was a faulty bolt. Never should have broken where it did.

The only rust I've found on the truck so far is on those upper shock bolts. Not the lower and not anywhere else.

Hope I don't run into anything unforeseen when I change the front ones next week.

What kind of bolt was that ,that would have that kind of cost, and shipping . Just looking at it ,it appears to be just a grade 5 standard 1/2" hex bolt ,what maybe 4-6 " long ? . Any bolt, and nut supplier should have that bolt, or hardware store ? What am I missing about that bolt if any ???? Even if metric, what else could there be for that bolt

 

[Whitewolf]

14mm dia, 7" long and a grade 8. They could have gotten me a grade 5 for a whole lot cheaper, but the code on the lower bolt translates to an 8.

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

14mm dia, 7" long and a grade 8. They could have gotten me a grade 5 for a whole lot cheaper, but the code on the lower bolt translates to an 8.

14mm x 180mm long, class 8.8 (not sure what that compares to) are only $2.72 each at mcmaster.com.

A 9/16x7 grade 8 is 5.72.

 

[Whitewolf]

Class 10.9 is the equivalent of Grade 8. At McMaster I could only find bolts up to 100mm for Class 10.9.

 

[JR]

Fastenal is just plain expensive, yet here nearly all of their accounts are industrial related so I imagine they reckon they can justify the inflation. Also, they have hardware that virtually nobody else does which is invaluable when you need something to keep a job moving along. I was just in there yesterday for a 50 count of 5/8" x 2-1/2" 316ss lags - $6.20 a piece. Do the math on that one!

 

[Strtvan76]

Mopar is showing this bolt for the top and bottom , non air supen

 

[Whitewolf]

That's what it showed in the schematics. They're wrong. Mechanic and I looked at the owners '16 with the same factory 5th wheel setup and his is the same as mine.

 

[Dan_69GTX]

Fastenal is just plain expensive, yet here nearly all of their accounts are industrial related so I imagine they reckon they can justify the inflation.

Yup and at times it ticks me off that they gouge folks.

I was just in there yesterday for a 50 count of 5/8" x 2-1/2" 316ss lags - $6.20 a piece. Do the math on that one!

OUCH!

 

[Dan_69GTX]

Check Grainger - sometimes they have stuff that is weird and not too expensive. But, you have to buy in bulk.

Regarding expensive bolts - a "friend" kept wanting me to look a the steering on his 97 F250 work truck. Told him I don't have time. Then one day he called and asked again (5th time) and I said no - no time. He replied ok, I'll have to get it towed out of your driveway. WHAT?!? Apparently he dropped something off from his wife for my wife and turning around the steering box dropped out. $40 for 3 bolts from the dealer. Simple fix - but for the inconvenience, he paid a lot more than normal for the labor.

 

[Dan_69GTX]

Duplicate - oops

 

[Cummins2014]

14mm dia, 7" long and a grade 8. They could have gotten me a grade 5 for a whole lot cheaper, but the code on the lower bolt translates to an 8.

M14x 2.0 or 1.5 x 180 ? If 2.0 , then Bellmetric.com has them for $7.62 ea if not 1.5 is about the same as you payed, shipping would have been cheaper $7.99. They are yellow zinc grade 10.9 but I would think that would be even better.

If there is a next time, you might want to check with Bellmetric.