-
TDR Magazine subscribers receive more than the magazine! You also gain additional forum privileges!
Details here: TDR Privileges
Subscribe to TDR Magazine here: https://www.tdr-online.com/
WHo's installed there own geverner spring kit???
- Thread starter drawson
- Start Date
Attention: TDR Forum Junkies To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.
Thanks, TDR Staff
- Status
drawson,
I have had one on the shelf for 3 months now and have not had a chance to get it in there yet. Now that I am going to pull the motor and trans in the next few weeks... the spring kit is going in.
One thing I did do after I changed the turbine housing to a 16 was remove the AFC spring kit from TST and reinstall the factory ones. It helped my low end power. The AFC spring kit is for smoke control at low boost but it cuts fuel back as well. Just a thought! The smoke does not bother me at all so ... ... out came the AFC kit.
On my 97 I can really feel the governor holding me back. This dude wants to rev alot higher but it is killing my fuel.
On a flat dead run to around 86 MPH (top speed with 4. 10's) I can get off the throttle and get back in it and the EGT's drop to less than 1000. Thats the dern governor! I have sooo many miles (trips to and from Idaho to Dallas) on my stock valve springs I had decided to hold out on the spring kit until after my rebuild and I am going with 60lb springs all the way around.
I hear the governor spring kit will probably need a few adjustments on the "installed height" to get it perfect.
We have nearly the same set-up... . What are your Dyno numbers? Mine being a daully seems to shave off about 25 HP from most others with single rear wheels.
Don~
I have had one on the shelf for 3 months now and have not had a chance to get it in there yet. Now that I am going to pull the motor and trans in the next few weeks... the spring kit is going in.
One thing I did do after I changed the turbine housing to a 16 was remove the AFC spring kit from TST and reinstall the factory ones. It helped my low end power. The AFC spring kit is for smoke control at low boost but it cuts fuel back as well. Just a thought! The smoke does not bother me at all so ... ... out came the AFC kit.
On my 97 I can really feel the governor holding me back. This dude wants to rev alot higher but it is killing my fuel.
On a flat dead run to around 86 MPH (top speed with 4. 10's) I can get off the throttle and get back in it and the EGT's drop to less than 1000. Thats the dern governor! I have sooo many miles (trips to and from Idaho to Dallas) on my stock valve springs I had decided to hold out on the spring kit until after my rebuild and I am going with 60lb springs all the way around.
I hear the governor spring kit will probably need a few adjustments on the "installed height" to get it perfect.
We have nearly the same set-up... . What are your Dyno numbers? Mine being a daully seems to shave off about 25 HP from most others with single rear wheels.
Don~
I've installed a few governor spring kits.
A few weeks ago, I removed my governor springs altogether.
I left the outer one in because that controls starting and idling.
I replaced all the inner springs with a stiff shim so no defueling can occur.
My advice is to go in through the plug on the side of the pump instead removing the camplate and going through the top. You reduce the chance of dropping things and the nuts are much easier to get to. You will have to remove the shutoff solenoid lever. The trick is to turn the key on and bump the starter to pull the shutoff solenoid up. That removes the spring pressure so you aren't fighting it. Don't lose the tiny half moon key on the pump and you're home free.
You will also need some type of device to turn the preload nut with. It would normally take a huge screwdriver (1/2" wide) but the stud comes up through the center. You will have to grind away the center where the stud pokes through. Some people have used copper tubing. You beat one end flat and then grind away the center. I tried this, but kept bending and breaking it. I finally took apart an old barn hinge and ground out the shape I needed. This was much stronger than the copper and has held up so far. Plus, it's flat and I can twist it easily with my hands.
Once you have the tool, the only trick is to measure how much the stud sticks through the nut. If you go through the side of the pump you can feel the stud and see it. If you go through the top, you will need to use the bottom of a set of calipers to measure the stud length.
This is the only critical measurement. If they are too tight, your idle speed will be high. If you just try to lower the idle speed, your truck will not start unless your foot is on the throttle. The pump requires a certain throttle angle for starting.
If you get them too loose, your idle speed will be too low and after you idle it up, the idle may become too sensitive. You may fight no engine braking or hanging RPMs (not returning to idle) or you may not be able to idle the truck at all. Sometimes they will idle at 500 and the slightest increase of throttle jumps to 1500 RPMs with nothing in between.
I'm not trying to scare you. It's really simple. These are the worst case scenarios. I learned them all the hard way, and could have saved myself a lot of time if I had someone to help me.
I hope this helps.
A few weeks ago, I removed my governor springs altogether.
I left the outer one in because that controls starting and idling.
I replaced all the inner springs with a stiff shim so no defueling can occur.
My advice is to go in through the plug on the side of the pump instead removing the camplate and going through the top. You reduce the chance of dropping things and the nuts are much easier to get to. You will have to remove the shutoff solenoid lever. The trick is to turn the key on and bump the starter to pull the shutoff solenoid up. That removes the spring pressure so you aren't fighting it. Don't lose the tiny half moon key on the pump and you're home free.
You will also need some type of device to turn the preload nut with. It would normally take a huge screwdriver (1/2" wide) but the stud comes up through the center. You will have to grind away the center where the stud pokes through. Some people have used copper tubing. You beat one end flat and then grind away the center. I tried this, but kept bending and breaking it. I finally took apart an old barn hinge and ground out the shape I needed. This was much stronger than the copper and has held up so far. Plus, it's flat and I can twist it easily with my hands.
Once you have the tool, the only trick is to measure how much the stud sticks through the nut. If you go through the side of the pump you can feel the stud and see it. If you go through the top, you will need to use the bottom of a set of calipers to measure the stud length.
This is the only critical measurement. If they are too tight, your idle speed will be high. If you just try to lower the idle speed, your truck will not start unless your foot is on the throttle. The pump requires a certain throttle angle for starting.
If you get them too loose, your idle speed will be too low and after you idle it up, the idle may become too sensitive. You may fight no engine braking or hanging RPMs (not returning to idle) or you may not be able to idle the truck at all. Sometimes they will idle at 500 and the slightest increase of throttle jumps to 1500 RPMs with nothing in between.
I'm not trying to scare you. It's really simple. These are the worst case scenarios. I learned them all the hard way, and could have saved myself a lot of time if I had someone to help me.
I hope this helps.
Did mine, with removal of camplate. It is nerve-racking for a crazy farmer like myself. My best advice... ..... get a good, nah make it a really good magnet. Other than that, a good acurate measurement and that is about all the advice I have. Patience and take the time to make a tool that will unscrew the retaining nut easily. Also a few beers to stop my shakes also helped! 
HEMI®Dart
TDR MEMBER
Swamp Donkey,
I hear ya. Once I took out the torque plate and peered 6" down into the pump, I almost put everthing back together. I said "you gotta be kidding me"
Drawson,
Here are some more "in depth" tips.
I went into the pump from the torque plate. Some guys go into the pump from the plug on the side that's saftey wired. You have to remove the fuel shutdown solenoid. When I went to remove it mine fell apart because the rubber boot had rotted.
I would go in from the top like the directions say, at least your first time.
Get yourself a good strong rare earth mechanics magnet with a long reach (you probably already have one)
Put a breaker bar and 17mm? socket on your alternator. Bar the engine over with one hand while watching the governor housing, stop when it looks like you can get a str8 shot with the calipers to the spring pack. You don't want the springs packs pointing str8 up. You won't be able to work on them. You'll see what I mean. Go too far and you'll have to go around again. You can't go backwards. The belt will slip.
Measure the distance from the center spring stud the the retainer. This sounds easier than it is. I had to take about five measurements to feel I was in the ballpark. (first time with calipers) Stock yours should be about . 060. Maybe a little more.
I used a medium long screwdriver the loosen & tighten the retainers. Just put the tip in one side of the slotted retainer and turn. I have never had a problem. Piers told me this is how he does it.
Put your magnet on the retainer when its almost loose. Pull it out, set aside.
One problem I did run into when I went back in the replace the shims under the BIG outside spring I removed (not supposed too).
The rod that connects the rocker to the control rack was slightly in the way so the smaller middle springs couldn't be lifted straight out. Rotating the governor housing won't help. You'll have to kinda tilt them to the right and lift them out. Same thing when you reinstall them.
Use magnet to pull the 3 middle springs out, one at a time. Make sure all the shims come out to. Mine came out with the springs. They were stuck to the bottom of the spring with oil.
If you want, you can take out the BIG spring and set it aside. Leave it in the pump. I left mine on the right. Its too big to loose. It may be easier to work with it out of the way. Don't lose the shims that may be stuck the the bottom. You really shouldn't need to do this.
DON'T remove the shims under the big outside spring that contols the idle. This one we don't replace. The directions say to remove all shims. I screwed up there. Idle speed dropped by 300 rpms. Had to go back into the pump next day and replace them.
After the 3 middle springs are out, use the magnet to pull out the OE spring seat.
Drop the new spring set into place with the magnet. Push it off the magnet with a long screwdriver.
Reinstall the big outside spring if you removed it. I started by installing the biggest spring in the kit. This will help keep the smaller ones in line. Stick it on the magnet and drop it in. I used a long medium sized screwdriver to "push" the spring off the magnet. The spring seat and the big spring keep them in line nicely. Its hard to get one not seated correctly.
Repeat with the next 2 smaller inner springs.
Next put the retainer on the end of the magnet. Slip it on the center stud. With the magnet still attached to the retainer, start screwing it on with you screwdriver in the other hand.
Get it tighted down some what and measure the distance from the stud to the reatiner. Try to get it to your factory height.
Rotate engine 360º via the alternator, while watching the governor housing, and bring the other spring pack to the top.
Repeat steps above.
Make sure both spring pack retainers are at the same height. Its easy because each click on each retainer is the same distance on both sides.
If you drop a shim, fish it out with your magnet. It'll probably be hidden in the oil. Piers said he's dropped a few. No too hard to get out.
This is really an easy job. A little intimidating at first.
If you are happy with your settings the first time, consider yourself lucky. If you have to much pre-load on the springs, you truck will go from idle to 1500 rpms in an instant. Not pleasant to drive. Tough on drivetrain parts too
You will want to go back into the pump and back off the retainers maybe 1 or 2 clicks. Not really any need to remeasure the distance, since each click is the same distance on both sides.
You don't want a "soft" pedal either. A setting of . 030-. 040 will give you a soft pedal. You'll get a real crappy idle. I hated the soft pedal. My truck is set @ about . 055.
You are better off with a touchy/sensitive pedal than a soft pedal. You'll get a much smoother than factory idle too.
It may take some getting used to with the pedal alot more sensitive than factory. Try putting a stronger throttle return spring on if you want.
You'll love the new governer springs. No more defueling @ 2300rpm. It pulls as strong @ 3000 rpms as it did at 2000 rpms. The truck will have a new personality from idle to past red line. You'll swear the truck has more torque and HP.
I know You're no dummy when it comes to mods. I just wrote down everything I could think of. Maybe other novice members could use these tips.
Good Luck
Let us know how you like the new springs.
Members, If you see something in the above post that is incorrect or have a better idea, please correct me.
I hear ya. Once I took out the torque plate and peered 6" down into the pump, I almost put everthing back together. I said "you gotta be kidding me"
Drawson,
Here are some more "in depth" tips.
I went into the pump from the torque plate. Some guys go into the pump from the plug on the side that's saftey wired. You have to remove the fuel shutdown solenoid. When I went to remove it mine fell apart because the rubber boot had rotted.
I would go in from the top like the directions say, at least your first time. Get yourself a good strong rare earth mechanics magnet with a long reach (you probably already have one)
Put a breaker bar and 17mm? socket on your alternator. Bar the engine over with one hand while watching the governor housing, stop when it looks like you can get a str8 shot with the calipers to the spring pack. You don't want the springs packs pointing str8 up. You won't be able to work on them. You'll see what I mean. Go too far and you'll have to go around again. You can't go backwards. The belt will slip.
Measure the distance from the center spring stud the the retainer. This sounds easier than it is. I had to take about five measurements to feel I was in the ballpark. (first time with calipers) Stock yours should be about . 060. Maybe a little more.
I used a medium long screwdriver the loosen & tighten the retainers. Just put the tip in one side of the slotted retainer and turn. I have never had a problem. Piers told me this is how he does it.
Put your magnet on the retainer when its almost loose. Pull it out, set aside.
One problem I did run into when I went back in the replace the shims under the BIG outside spring I removed (not supposed too).
The rod that connects the rocker to the control rack was slightly in the way so the smaller middle springs couldn't be lifted straight out. Rotating the governor housing won't help. You'll have to kinda tilt them to the right and lift them out. Same thing when you reinstall them.
Use magnet to pull the 3 middle springs out, one at a time. Make sure all the shims come out to. Mine came out with the springs. They were stuck to the bottom of the spring with oil.
If you want, you can take out the BIG spring and set it aside. Leave it in the pump. I left mine on the right. Its too big to loose. It may be easier to work with it out of the way. Don't lose the shims that may be stuck the the bottom. You really shouldn't need to do this.
DON'T remove the shims under the big outside spring that contols the idle. This one we don't replace. The directions say to remove all shims. I screwed up there. Idle speed dropped by 300 rpms. Had to go back into the pump next day and replace them.
After the 3 middle springs are out, use the magnet to pull out the OE spring seat.
Drop the new spring set into place with the magnet. Push it off the magnet with a long screwdriver.
Reinstall the big outside spring if you removed it. I started by installing the biggest spring in the kit. This will help keep the smaller ones in line. Stick it on the magnet and drop it in. I used a long medium sized screwdriver to "push" the spring off the magnet. The spring seat and the big spring keep them in line nicely. Its hard to get one not seated correctly.
Repeat with the next 2 smaller inner springs.
Next put the retainer on the end of the magnet. Slip it on the center stud. With the magnet still attached to the retainer, start screwing it on with you screwdriver in the other hand.
Get it tighted down some what and measure the distance from the stud to the reatiner. Try to get it to your factory height.
Rotate engine 360º via the alternator, while watching the governor housing, and bring the other spring pack to the top.
Repeat steps above.
Make sure both spring pack retainers are at the same height. Its easy because each click on each retainer is the same distance on both sides.
If you drop a shim, fish it out with your magnet. It'll probably be hidden in the oil. Piers said he's dropped a few. No too hard to get out.
This is really an easy job. A little intimidating at first.
If you are happy with your settings the first time, consider yourself lucky. If you have to much pre-load on the springs, you truck will go from idle to 1500 rpms in an instant. Not pleasant to drive. Tough on drivetrain parts too
You will want to go back into the pump and back off the retainers maybe 1 or 2 clicks. Not really any need to remeasure the distance, since each click is the same distance on both sides.
You don't want a "soft" pedal either. A setting of . 030-. 040 will give you a soft pedal. You'll get a real crappy idle. I hated the soft pedal. My truck is set @ about . 055.
You are better off with a touchy/sensitive pedal than a soft pedal. You'll get a much smoother than factory idle too.
It may take some getting used to with the pedal alot more sensitive than factory. Try putting a stronger throttle return spring on if you want.
You'll love the new governer springs. No more defueling @ 2300rpm. It pulls as strong @ 3000 rpms as it did at 2000 rpms. The truck will have a new personality from idle to past red line. You'll swear the truck has more torque and HP.
I know You're no dummy when it comes to mods. I just wrote down everything I could think of. Maybe other novice members could use these tips.
Good Luck
Let us know how you like the new springs.
Members, If you see something in the above post that is incorrect or have a better idea, please correct me.
Last edited:
Shims... ... . I never took any out of mine at all. Is it possible that I would not have any shims? I did take out the bottom plate that that the springs rest on, but of course returned it to install new gov springs. My idle went up about 200 rpm with the governor spring installation, but I just turned down my idle. Maybe I should have backed off my retaining nut. Hmmmm, guess I may have to go back into the pump, to adjust gov springs and the fuel plate could use a little bump ahead. I put it in less than the stock position because I installed my 370's at the same time as the gov spring and was not sure how much power I would have. Trying to preserve my auto. I do have a touchy throttle, and I noticed you mentioned that the idle should be smoother. I think my idle is a little rougher, and just chalked it up to the 370's. It does rev as far as 3400 rpms and I did not install the little center springs that were supposed to give me up to 3800 I think Piers said. Is it time for me to dig into the pump????
I do have a touchy throttle, and I noticed you mentioned that the idle should be smoother. I think my idle is a little rougher, and just chalked it up to the 370's. It does rev as far as 3400 rpms and I did not install the little center springs that were supposed to give me up to 3800 I think Piers said. Is it time for me to dig into the pump????Very good!
Very good write up Bill.
The only thing I should mention is you need to rotate the engine 360° to get to the other gov spring set.
360° of engine rotation is 180° of pump rotation.
That caught me off guard the first time. I rotated my engine 180° and there were no springs in sight.
-Chris
Very good write up Bill.
The only thing I should mention is you need to rotate the engine 360° to get to the other gov spring set.
360° of engine rotation is 180° of pump rotation.
That caught me off guard the first time. I rotated my engine 180° and there were no springs in sight.
-Chris
HEMI®Dart
TDR MEMBER
Swamp Donkey,
Very possible yours didn't have shims. Mine had 3 shims under the biggest spring that's it the kit. You would have seen them stuck to the bottom of the springs, or found them when you took the OE spring seat out. Its probably the different specs between the 175hp pump, and a 215hp pump. If your pedal is sensitive now, going another click tighter on the retainers might make it undrivable. Strick-9 had a rough idle with his 370's too.
Me and Strick-9 would DIE for your injection pump.
Chris,
Good catch on the 180° engine rotation. You are right. I went back and edited the post.
Drawson,
At one point during the post I felt I was insulting your intelligence. . I know you are a Tech School automotive instructor. You have a lot more engine knowledge than I do!
Very possible yours didn't have shims. Mine had 3 shims under the biggest spring that's it the kit. You would have seen them stuck to the bottom of the springs, or found them when you took the OE spring seat out. Its probably the different specs between the 175hp pump, and a 215hp pump. If your pedal is sensitive now, going another click tighter on the retainers might make it undrivable. Strick-9 had a rough idle with his 370's too.
Me and Strick-9 would DIE for your injection pump.
Chris,
Good catch on the 180° engine rotation. You are right. I went back and edited the post.
Drawson,
At one point during the post I felt I was insulting your intelligence.
. I know you are a Tech School automotive instructor. You have a lot more engine knowledge than I do!
Last edited:
Bill, I have the 180 hp pump. It's a 98 auto. Guess I will do a little tinkerin in the pump one day... ... .
drawson
TDR MEMBER
Bill, Never did you insult my intelligence. I really am thankful for all your help!!!! If things go well I'll be putting them in Thursday PM.
Yes I teach Automotive (gasser stuff). The Diesel shop is crossed the hall. The diesel instructors are no help they are from the camp of everything being stock YUK According to them I'm on barrowed time right now with what I have done.
Thanks again Bill
Yes I teach Automotive (gasser stuff). The Diesel shop is crossed the hall. The diesel instructors are no help they are from the camp of everything being stock
YUK According to them I'm on barrowed time right now with what I have done. Thanks again Bill
One hellova post Bill, have you ever thought about writing instructions??? If I send you my lastest [top secret] project, will you write the install instructions??? I get my wife to proof read anything I make up, that way I don't just take for granted you all will know what I talking about
Borrowed time... yeah that sounds familiar. Almost every professor I have ever had in a class would downright refuse to take any theory or application thereof past it's original specs..... where is the fun in that?! 
I can't blame them from the standpoint of liability, but we all know how far you can push a B5. 9L... or any Cummins for that matter... . it's darn near limitless.
BTW, I think I'm taking my truck to a pump shop for the gov-springs... it sounds too risky for me to attempt.
Matt - mechanically able, but afraid of messing up a perfectly -good B-series
I can't blame them from the standpoint of liability, but we all know how far you can push a B5. 9L... or any Cummins for that matter... . it's darn near limitless.
BTW, I think I'm taking my truck to a pump shop for the gov-springs... it sounds too risky for me to attempt.
Matt - mechanically able, but afraid of messing up a perfectly -good B-series
drawson
TDR MEMBER
4000 RPMs
Well just got back from my first test drive after installing the governer springs. Thanks to Bill's great instructions and advice I got it first time. I set it up at the stock setting and then backed it off one click. The idle was too high but that was easy enough.
It is just like Bill said it seems like a new truck there is more bottom and 4000 RPMs Is FUN
Bill and Piers if we ever meet up the beers on me!!!!
Thanks,
Well just got back from my first test drive after installing the governer springs. Thanks to Bill's great instructions and advice I got it first time. I set it up at the stock setting and then backed it off one click. The idle was too high but that was easy enough.
It is just like Bill said it seems like a new truck there is more bottom and 4000 RPMs
Is FUN Bill and Piers if we ever meet up the beers on me!!!!
Thanks,
- Status
Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising
Turbo Diesel Register
Issue 128 – Digital Version
Digital Magazines
FREE!
TDR Test Drive - Digital Edition
Renew
Subscribe
Gift Subscriptions
Back Issues
Subscription Status
Address Change Form
Buyer's Guides
Ram Diagnostic Trouble Codes
The Perfect Collection
The Perfect Collection Vol. II
TSB Updates
Dodge/Cummins Historical Overview
Cameron Collection
What Makes Us Tick?
Product Showcase
Advertising
