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Why are 4.10 gears offered?

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New Towing / Ratio Question

Tow Haul Mode, W/5th Wheel

less engine awear for gears lower numericly, but less wear on everything else for gears with numbers numericly higher. its an arguement that will never end. lets do this. you get your second gen to push the SAME HP and TQ numbers as my 3rd gen and we can see who can tow up a hill faster with the same trailer... deal?

Grant
 
Our old Freightliner used the ISB. We got paperwork with the truck that stated the best operating rpm for the 24v was 2300rpm. Over 200k miles I did my very own tests. At 26klbs, we got 13mpg crusing at 2300rpm. At 2500rpm, 10mpg. At 2krpm 10mpg. The truck had 4:10 rears and a 6 speed trans.
 
Mileage?

So that's why my mileage is so low. (15 mpg) I'm just putting at 65 - at 2300 RPM I'm going to catch the wrong kind of attention around here (almost 80 MPH). I always thought the best mileage was around the best torque. But officer, I was ONLY ... . :D
 
Stake Man said:
Our old Freightliner used the ISB. We got paperwork with the truck that stated the best operating rpm for the 24v was 2300rpm. Over 200k miles I did my very own tests. At 26klbs, we got 13mpg crusing at 2300rpm. At 2500rpm, 10mpg. At 2krpm 10mpg. The truck had 4:10 rears and a 6 speed trans.

As you know the Freightliner is a "Real Truck" with Huge running gear and tires - the gear ratio analysis is really apples and oranges when comparing to our little pickups... . Also my transmission solonoid went out a month or so ago and I couldn't get into OD - only went into direct -man did she scream at 2100-2300 at freeway speeds - I thought to myself - why in the )*&^&% would anybody want to drive like this - which is what 4. 10's would do - and Oh By The Way - did my fuel mileage ever go in the tank until I got that fixed... . Nope - you couldn't gve me a 4. 10 - If you need that - I seriously think you need A BIGGER TRUCK!!!!
 
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Do you know why GOD created all men equal and created Iraq for Iraqy folks and Africa for Africannies? Because we all are different and have different needs in a truck. I just made my second trip with my 2006 3500 with 4. 10s. I would not have it any other way. I turn 2000-2100 at 65mph and I don't hardly ever drive faster. The hills of NC would make toast of a heavy "little toy truck" with anything less. :-{}



Put this bad boy behind your 2500-3500 with 3. 54s or 3. 73s and push it up close behind me and follow where I go and you will smoke... ... ...



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CUMMINZ NC

2006 CTD, QC-DRW 3500, 2006 - 37RLTSD Cedar Creek-Day Dreamer, 4x4, 4. 10LS, 48re, Inferno Red,

My New Truck at www.GoRowan.com/2006ram

My Old Truck at www.GoRowan.com/2004ram
 
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Nick,



Take a look at ALL the heavy trucks unless its a city or offroader, they are running O. D. or double O. D. trannies, they are stout enough to carry the load and last a long time. The 5600 is WAY stonger than the old 4500.
 
Blu-meanie said:
I had the 4:10 in my '01 with 6 speed. I miss it, especially when towing. Wish I had ordered it on this '05.



The '01 5600/4. 10 are pretty close to the same final ratio as the '05 G56/3. 73.
 
bmoeller said:
The '01 5600/4. 10 are pretty close to the same final ratio as the '05 G56/3. 73.



Yes but you don't get the nice low speed reverse like the 5600/4:10 combo, and we've yet to see how long the G-56 will last to ' hard core ' hauling.
 
Overdrive or double overdrive? No thanks, I like the gear fast, run slow method. Givin a choice, I would have direct drive transmission and rear axle gears to match. Like 6 or 7 speed manual (direct) and 2. 73 gears :)







"NICK"
 
Direct transmissions are geared lower all thru the range of gears. First is usually around 7. 00 to 1 in a direct drive transmission. The higher the rear axle, the bigger the drive shaft and u-joints will be required.





"NICK"
 
I tow the dyno (GCVW 22,080) with a 3500 5spd and 4. 10 gears(260hp/600tq). I wouldn't even want to try it with 3. 54's



I moved some horses yesterday with my 2500 that is auto and 3. 54's. But it also has twins. While it pulled the load fine, it still wanted RPM to keep EGT's in check. I pulled the load at about 2100 rpm, kept temps below 1000 degrees and it still ate more fuel than the 3500 with a much bigger load.
 
the 'Goerend/4. 10'-combo just works great for towing and I'll gladly loose some mpg for the convenience of towing with a smile on my face :D
 
The bottom line is get a set of gauges and run what you got and shift to the right gear that will alow the engine to operate safely. Run on the flats at the rpm that is as close to your peak torque at a the speed you want and use higher rpms on the hills to pass enough air flow through the engine to keep the EGTs in a safe range.
 
Need for the 4.10 ratio

Your not comparing apples to apples. The 12 valve engines have a vastly different torque curve than the current production truck. I agree with you that the 4. 10 is not warranted in a 6 speed truck. I also think the 4. 10 is not necessary for any 12 valve manual transmission equipped truck. That said however, the 03 and later trucks have a flat torque curve almost to redline. My 03 does not "feel" nearly as powerful as my 97 does. Since your not on a steep part of the torque curve (unlike the 12 valve engine) in the 03 even modest hills can cause you to reach full throttle while towing on cruise at 1850 RPM. Which equates to about 62 MPH with 3. 73 rear end and stock tires. The 03 is just not producing enough horsepower at that RPM to maintain speed without excessive throttle input. Now this can be fixed by the use of a power enhancing box but in the stock form the engine benefits greatly for a few more RPMs. The common rail engines seem to like 2000-2100 RPM. They pull like a 12 valve at 1900 RPM at that speed. 2100 RPM is slightly over 72 MPH on my truck, A little fast for some of us hauling 12K here on the east coast. I really think the 4. 10 shines with the automatic trucks. They already have a taller OD gear and the RPM helps the engine to have plenty of power to prevent the ECM from forcing a down shift.
 
If the picture loads

This is a sheet comparing a Stock 04 CR(blue), a stock 99 24v (red), a 98 24v with 275's and EZ(green) and a plate in a 97 12v purple. 3. 54 gears in the 99 and 97, 3. 73 in 04, and 4. 10 in the 98.



Notice the speeds for top gear. The 98 is a 5 spd, the rest auto's. Dyno runs are started around 70mph for each auto as any slower, it will downshift. This would be the case on the road too.



Notice the stock curves as compared to the modified.



The 98 24v is my 3500. It pulls a hill best at 2700 rpm (peak hp). At 2000 rpm it is at the bottom end of it's power curve and pulls like it too. I have one hill that if I start it at 2100 rpm (60 mph)and it will pull me down to 1800 (51mph). I can start the same hill at 2400 rpm (68 mph) and maintain speed.



The 97 and 98 pull together all the time. Get nearly identical mileage. The 97 has the added wind resistance of a 5th wheel, but it is also 3k pounds lighter too. On the hills, the 24v wins, even 3k pounds heavier.



The Duramax and 6. 0 have the same curve as the CR Cummins.







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