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Tire/axle width for DRW to SRW conversion

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Last night (monday 3-6-06) my baby rolled over 100K. I started thinking about all the money I've spent on it. Here's a rough list.



BD inline brake + exhaust work $1750

Mag rear cover--$270

Trans Coolers--$190

Rickson 19. 5's--$1700 for the rims, I won't include the tires 'cause they're paying for themselves quite nicely.

Rear U-joint--$30

Two rear-most u-joints--This time under warranty, incl the one I replaced myself--$100 deduc.

Front axle joints--Once again $100 deduc.

New LP in tank--Covered by DC, no deduc.

Juice w/att. $750

Fuel press. guage--$200 by the time all was said and done.

Visor $200 or so + paint

Step bars

Rear pads--fronts are still factory

More springs--$390

Airbags--$275



That's really about it. Notice how little of that is actually repairs. I don't keep recods very well and this is only what I can come up with off the top of my head. There may be more and I'll post it if I think of it.



If u-joint are considered routine as well as brake pads, then I haven't spent any money on "repairs" in 100K miles. How many PoS guys can say that???



My '01 was very similar. I sold it with 138K and the biggest expenses were a head gasket at a cost of $562 incl labor. and T-case for $1700. Lousy service dept for the T-case, shouldn't have cost that much and I'll never set foot in there again.
 
Cool

Thats pretty good there buddy. Mine is an 02 and I have not hardly spent anything at all in repairs other than like you said the brake pads and stuff. But i have sure spent some money on her making her feel good. :)
 
cost

1997 12V CC 4X4 2500- 250,000 miles



Replaced trans cooler lines 330. 00

Replaced front axle ujoints (the ones inside the steering knuckle) ~400. 00

Odometer read 10% fast (replaced by dealer at 3K miless) 0. 00

Replaced starter motor at 90k miles 245

Valves adjusted valves ONCE in lifetime of truck by Cummins SanLeandro~79. 00

Replaced radiator hoses twice (preventative maint-they never leaked) 50. 00

3 front brake jobs I paid a shop for; 3 or so sets I did myself ~600

1 rear brake job at shop (had them install TSB approved 1 ton rear wheel cylinders 200. 00, 1 rear brake job I did- replaced drums 1st time last year 350. 00

LOts of oil changes

Lots of transmission fluid added (due to leaks) Changed fluid and trans filter twice in life of truck I've NEVER adjusted the bands.....

TPS replaced can't remember how much I paid but it wasnt more than 100. 00

Power steering/hyrda boost pump leaks, I've been putting prestone "Stop leak" in it for about 3 years, she keeps on workin!





Vacuum pump leaks oil like a sieve, I know I've got oil in some vacuum lines (one vacuum motor under dash wont work, so I operate it manually, its the one that channels air from defrost mode to middle a/c mode) But they want 1200. 00 to replace vac pump and who knows how much vaccuum motors and lines cost so I've just lived with it for 100K miles! 4wd works fine and crusie kinda works (I have to push the set button and then hold down the accell button for about 20 secinds till it kicks in, set button alone will not engage cruise) The trans and engine have a few oil leaks that have plagued me since 100K miles



Thats about it; In the 10 years I've owned the truck(I am original owner) I've never been stranded except when I ran out of fuel! it just doesnt get much better than that!
 
Repairs on my truck the first 100,000 miles?--$0. 00! Dealership replaced my alternator bracket for no apparent reason (looked fine, although the new one was heavier), but not a single repair. Just turned 170,000 miles and only a few routine repairs; u-jionts, a wheel bearing, etc. My '01 Duramax had a list as long as my arm when it finally died at 103,000. I'm sold on Dodge. Jeff
 
cattletrkr, That 01' you use to have still tows 30k once a week and is just getting time for a SBC clutch. Thanks for a great truck



The Fat Kid

Andy
 
My truck has about 26k on it and it is as solid as the day I bought it. These truckes are built for the long haul. Just window regulators replaced under warranty



If my truck will be as problem-free as your trucks, then Iam in good shape.

I just wish I could make use of my service contract at least once so it could help pay for itself.
 
My '03 dually has about 95k on it and has been very solid. I have had to do u-joints and ball joints. Just fluid services besides that stuff. Not bad at all for a work truck, always hauling.
 
Doc DeTon said:
What makes these U Joints go? Is it a lack of a place to lube? Seems like a lot of failures. Doc

I'm guessing they didn't get much (if any) grease at the factory. :(
 
Cattletrkr said:
Last night (monday 3-6-06) my baby rolled over 100K. I started thinking about all the money I've spent on it. Here's a rough list.



BD inline brake + exhaust work $1750

Mag rear cover--$270

Trans Coolers--$190

Rickson 19. 5's--$1700 for the rims, I won't include the tires 'cause they're paying for themselves quite nicely.

Rear U-joint--$30

Two rear-most u-joints--This time under warranty, incl the one I replaced myself--$100 deduc.

Front axle joints--Once again $100 deduc.

New LP in tank--Covered by DC, no deduc.

Juice w/att. $750

Fuel press. guage--$200 by the time all was said and done.

Visor $200 or so + paint

Step bars

Rear pads--fronts are still factory

More springs--$390

Airbags--$275



That's really about it. Notice how little of that is actually repairs. I don't keep recods very well and this is only what I can come up with off the top of my head. There may be more and I'll post it if I think of it.



If u-joint are considered routine as well as brake pads, then I haven't spent any money on "repairs" in 100K miles. How many PoS guys can say that???



My '01 was very similar. I sold it with 138K and the biggest expenses were a head gasket at a cost of $562 incl labor. and T-case for $1700. Lousy service dept for the T-case, shouldn't have cost that much and I'll never set foot in there again.





Your right, no one with a Powerjoke can make that claim. In the 10 years that I own my 95 CTD I only replaced an 18" long fuel line hose and two clamps. That's in addition to normal brakes, wiper and batteries.
 
update

A few months ago I had to have a new CV joint put in the front driveshaft. Total cost for joint and balancing by a top-notch shop was about $123. Had valves adjusted by local mechanic, don't recall the cost. Been thinking about having it done again.



Rolled over 132K today and that list isn't growing hardly at all.



97K on the Mich 19. 5's with a lot more to go. Should go 125K easy.



This truck has been bery quirky, but it just keeps going. I know, I know. I'm gonna jinx myself, but I don't care. It's fun to brag once in a while.



Oh yeah, front pads are still factory. I've had the replacements sitting on the shelf for a few months. They'll probably go in dad's '03 w/auto before they go in my truck.
 
I will jump in here. For my '05 the only repair so far has been the driver's door lock solenoid earlier this week at a cost of $135. The truck has 76,200+ miles on it as of now.



I have a couple of problems that I have chose to do nothing about: 1) Drivers door weather stripping is tore as it does on a lot of 3rd gens, 2) the in-cab interior lighting does not come on when the left rear quad cab door is opened. Little things not worth worrying about in my book. I will probably have them fixed, but it will be when it is in the shop for something worth going for.
 
Gotta add a complete front driveshaft to the list---$265
New front shocks--$180 bilsteins from genos
Rail pressure gauge--$285 wasted

154K and the new front pads are still sitting on the shelf, probably 40% left on factory.
 
What makes these U Joints go? Is it a lack of a place to lube? Seems like a lot of failures. Doc



I just had my rearmost U joint replaced at 24,100 miles, there was almost 1/2" of play in the driveshaft. Not being greaseable is one issue, but I wonder if the part that they use can actually handle the torque that the motor puts out.

As I have seen from a lot of posts, it isn't the motor that is normally the issue, it is the thing that is wrapped around the motor... .
 
'02 with 54k Just replaced the tires. U-joint replaced under warranty. Needs exhaust,but am in no hurry for that. New brake pads front and rear... . That is all
 
Jacked the front end up tonight and with the steering wheel straight everything is good, but turn it all the way right and I can't hardly spin the right front wheel. Going to the dealer (a good one) tomorrow at 10am... nice and quick service. As I was talkling to him I grabbed the left wheel for the fun of it and yep, it wiggles. Upper balljoint moves a mm or two (total guess). I'm certainly not complaining, it rolled over 159K this morning.
 
151,000 miles now

Fan clutch - 40K miles

Lift pump retro-fit - 78K miles

Front shocks - 92K miles

New serpentine belt - 110K miles

New DTT transmission - 120K miles :-laf

Front axle u-joints - 128K miles

Water pump - 134K miles

Rear shocks - 142K miles

Two rear u-joints - 144K

Now on my fourth set of tires - couldn't be happier with the truck - best damn piece of 4-wheeled hardware on the road IMHO.
 
OK, that just raised the lifetime repair total a little. All new ball joints, axle seals, axle joints, pinion seal, and an alignment. Moog adjustable/greaseable ball joints and precision axle joints.

$1960. ouch.
 
When it rains it pours. New clutch last week, $700 for the SBC Con OFE not sure about labor yet. Today I ordered an ATS exhaust manifold 'cause my original is cracked. $500 give or take.

My only complaint is that it's all happening at once.

I just realized... my front brakes outlasted my clutch. :) or :{ I'm not sure which.
 
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