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Why is my oil black?

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Just got an 05... ... . less than 700 miles on it and two weeks old. I checked the oil for the first time yesterday (luckly) and it is black as tar! Any input? The level is fine... ... ... ... . just looks really used.
 
THis has been talked about a LOT on here. Oil turns black very quickly. Over the next few oil changes, many are reporting that the oil then returns to normal once everything is broken in. Do a search, you will find some valuable info.
 
ACF;

Only change it at recommended intervals. I had my oil changed the other day and it was black after driving 10 miles. If you change your oil too often you are only wasting oil. Be patient. I heard that after 20K using dino oil this condition disappears. Then you can switch over to syn. Some say wait until 50K to switch to syn.



Ron
 
I changed mine (14K on truck) a couple of weeks ago. I let it drain all night. Started the truck, checked oil pressure, shut it down. Oil was black.



15-Mar-2005 Edit: For all of you smart people who are asking "did you put oil in it first?", ... although not specifically stated in the above post, the part that says "I changed mine" implies that oil was added. I love this place. Oo.
 
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Me too, it turns oil black faster than an 'ol tired 6-71! I'm not too concerned, but plan to do a caterpilar SOS sample next oil drop (10,500), that should tell the story. I have a friend with a 600 (yet to join the TDR) and he is up around 12K, his is the same. I like the it will stop after break-in theory, hope it's true.
 
The oil in my 98 12v got black just as fast as this one. It's a sign the oil is doing it's job by keeping the soot suspended. I'd be more concerned if the oil stayed clear... ... .
 
ACF

Don't do what i did. I changed my oil using Fleetgard filters four times the first 8K with it still turning coal black after 500 miles. My plan is to change it every three months (around 4K miles) untill around 20-30K.



Mac :cool:
 
the 3rd injection event on the 600/610 series engines is to thank for the quick black oil development...



i've got 6,000km on my oil right now and it is darker than new fill, but not black yet, and i'll pur another 2,500-3,000km on the oil before changing it... [305/555 mine is]
 
Guys,

The oil is turning black because it is working. I do not care what brand of CI-4 Plus oil you use, it will turn black. There is nothing wrong with the oil or the engine. Do not waste money on changing the oil to often. Follow the recomended change interval for your type of service and for-get-about-it!



If you want longer drain intervals, you can change to a synthetic after the first oil change without any problems. After you do I would recommend that you use an oil analysis to set your drain interval. Buy good quality filters and enjoy the benefits of driving the CTD.
 
klenger said:
I changed mine (14K on truck) a couple of weeks ago. I let it drain all night. Started the truck, checked oil pressure, shut it down. Oil was black.



Don't forget to ADD oil first. :-laf :-laf :p
 
The main reason for my concern was the fact that my old 555 would maintain clear oil even with over 7500 miles on it. The first time I checked the oil on the new truck I almost rolled over.
 
Mine is the same... ... . turned black quick :{ . I have over 4,000 miles on it and getting ready to do my first oil change today. Once I got over the shock of the dirty oil a few months ago I just accepted the fact that it turns black real fast. Keep on running it and enjoy!!! :D



BTW... . my Duramax oil never looked this bad (neither did my PowerCroak for that matter)... . but I'll defer to the oil experts and relax about it.
 
The third injection event and probably modified valve timing is equivalent to in cylinder egr (a poor man's approach). We get the filthy oil without the benefits of a VGT. The result is that DC saved a buck. Cummins is losing its reputation for efficiency, and we are getting ripped off at the pump.



If you compare Cummuns off road and on road emission approaches you will find we got the cheaper off road fix (less efficient -- but cheaper). Check also John Deere. They have two approaches too. They use the approach Cummins used in the 600-610 only for those who want to minimize installed cost and do not mind significant losses of performance and efficiency.



As proof, Cummins advertises that the egr isbe is 2% more efficient than the old 24v engines. However, they do not even bring up the subject of efficiency for the Dodge variants of the isb engine (e. g. 600-610).
 
DDahl said:
The third injection event and probably modified valve timing is equivalent to in cylinder egr (a poor man's approach). We get the filthy oil without the benefits of a VGT. The result is that DC saved a buck. Cummins is losing its reputation for efficiency, and we are getting ripped off at the pump.



If you compare Cummuns off road and on road emission approaches you will find we got the cheaper off road fix (less efficient -- but cheaper). Check also John Deere. They have two approaches too. They use the approach Cummins used in the 600-610 only for those who want to minimize installed cost and do not mind significant losses of performance and efficiency.



As proof, Cummins advertises that the egr isbe is 2% more efficient than the old 24v engines. However, they do not even bring up the subject of efficiency for the Dodge variants of the isb engine (e. g. 600-610).





the in cylinder technology is a better idea than mickey mousing an egr system to the engine... just wait until camless diesel engines become mainstream, then you will never see anything but in cylinder tech...
 
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