Will the Cat 2um filter clog in cold temps?

[leadvilleram]

I am considering installing a Cat 2 micron filter setup. My question is this: Will it be susceptible to clogging at low temps, say, below zero F? I have never had issues with my local winter fuel blends (with no additional treatment) waxing up in the stock canister with the Mopar filter, even at -30 seeing powerstrokes parked on the side of the road everywhere. My concern is that there will be no fuel heater on the remote filter, and with such a fine particle rating being first inline, might I end up with a clogged filter on a really cold day? Would I need to start adding power service to every tank to ensure no wax forms? I know alot will depend on fuel quality and additives. Just curious if anyone has any experience there so I don't open a can of worms trying to protect the injectors.

 

[CKelley1]

it does not clog up. i have started our trucks at 20* below zero here is pix of were and how i built the base for harvey barlow last year and have not had a trip through where he lives to install it. the 33674 is the same as cat ir0749 we mount the filters just forward of the fuel tank. we run a fleet of dodges and recently installed one on a 06. there is two bolts through the floor board for a rear seat option at this location. some of our trucks use them others do not. get a 2" x 3" piece of angle iron 6" long. make a card board template that the two bolts and keeper nuts will go through hold the template on the inside against the 2" part and drill the two holes they will be about 5/8" i think and about 3 7/8 " between. center the holes on the 2" and near the edge on the 2" hold the angle iron over the bolts with the 3"part the furtherest away from the tank and drill a 1/4" hole between the two holes, keep drilling through the floor board. now after you mount the filters to the angle iron just simply mount it with a 1/4 grade 8 bolt. this is the only hard part the other items is easy. the total time including building the bracket is about 1 1/2 hours. i will give you napa numbers but they can cross reference to wix or car quest. the two bases are 4770 the water separator pre filter is 3406 the 2 micron filter is 3674. use a 3/8" nipple with about 1/2" space in the middle connect the two bases together observing the in and out. because of this the mounting plate on one filter base is about 1" further out than the other. install two 90* 3/8" barbed fittings on the bases and temporary bolt the angle iron up and hold the filters up to it. make sure everything clears and mark the one base that touches the plate to drill the three holes to mount the filters. next cut the feed fuel line at this location and bend the lines out a little and install 3/8 hose over the lines and to the barbed fittings. i put a small amount of flair on the steel lines. but i do not think it is necessary. Bleed the air out through the stock filter before trying to start it. use a gauge and do not change the filters until you see a four pound drop this should be about every 150,000 miles and the stock filter will never need to be changed. Cheapest place is http://www.fleetfilter.com/filters/wix-filter-bases.html

your filter base has two inlets and two outlets on each base be careful to connect the nipple between the outlet of the first filter to the inlet of the second. only one of the bases get's the bolts as the offset places the second base about a inch away from the plate. we use to make spacers on the first ones and then decided they were not needed

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[BIGNASTY]

Mine dont but its in the engine bay under the the brake master cyl.

 

[leadvilleram]

Thanks for the quick replies! I figured it would work ok, just wanted to see if anyone chimed in. I tend to overthink things sometimes...

 

[jgillott]

I have mine above the CP3 on a cylinder head mount. No problem yet, but it has only set out to around -10 with this setup.

 

[leadvilleram]

So this begs the question: Does it make more sense and is it possible to place it between the stock canister and CP3 instead of before the canister? In that case, the fuel has to run through the stock filter/water separator and heater first.

 

[BIGNASTY]

Thats how I did it on my 04 the bottom bolts that old the master brake cyl were long enough to bolt the filter mount to it and then the filter head to the mount and bolted it to the bolts on the Brake cy. Brought the fuel line from rear of truck to the stock canister out of that to the Cat and into the CP3 got all the fittings I needed at Glacier Diesel great bunch of folks didnt have to wonder if it was all going to work THEY KNEW IT WOULD and IT DID last filter in line is a 2 mic cat the others pick all the big stuff up so it wont clog the cat as fast.

 

[jgillott]

Here's a picture of mine on my '07. As Big mentioned, I am using quite a few parts from GDP including the mount. This one will not work with the cylinder head mounted APPS on the automatic trucks I believe. Mine is a Fleetguard filter on the GDP mount. I'm not sure how they differ from the CAT specifically. I wanted mine after the factory filter/heater/separator figuring that the larger particles would be captured in the factory unit and the smaller material in the secondary filter. I am no expert on this filtration stuff, so please don't base any ideas on my logic.

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[leadvilleram]

Good info there guys! I do have the APPS in the way on my truck, however, I see that GDP has a kit to deal with that. Looks like a pretty tight fit, but so is everything else in there. Running the fuel through the heater first would make me feel better.

 

[BIGNASTY]

leadvilleram
Thanks for posting that from GDP I never REALLY liked the idea of hanging mine on the bolts on the brake cyl all thou it has never gave me any trouble I just didnt feel good about it. I have that APPS DEAL on mine, I wonder if I can get just the bracket I have the other parts. Thanks again.

BIG

 

[leadvilleram]

I will post pics when I get around to ordering and installing.

 

[jgillott]

Big. You have a PM

 

[BIGNASTY]

Got thanks for info

BIG

 

[CKelley1]

i like it mounted before the stock filter. with where we mount ours they are out of the way and the small stock filter never needs changing, 3 of our 06's still has the factory installed filter in them.

 

[leadvilleram]

The more I think about it, the more I want to just leave it alone and run a Baldwin PF7977 in the stock canister. I have done alot of searching and reading of some amazingly contentious threads regarding filtration and water separation (on various forums). What I think I have learned through the filtering (no pun intended) of opinions, hearsay, and factual info, is that excess tinkering and related fuel system contamination probably leads to more injector/cp3 failures than anything else aside from water in the fuel-that's my opinion anyways. If someone spends $1000's on fuel system upgrades and didn't take the time to ensure contaminants weren't introduced into the system while it was all taken apart, then gets on a forum and condems the fuel filter for being at fault, then we have more false information and assumptions influencing the general public. I have never seen my "water in fuel" light come on, but then I wonder if the contacts on the sensor are rusty and not working. My injectors might fail tomorrow because I failed to properly maintain my truck and pro-actively drain the canister. If one does actually take a second to open the drain valve every so often and change the filter regularly, stock filtration on a stock truck should be a non-issue. All of the seemingly abstract and marketing driven micron and efficiency ratings are enough to make my head spin. But they also leave things open to each and every person's personal interpretation-regardless of their experience level. Therefore, nothing that we "know" about the subject is really any more than opinion, aside from those who work on these trucks day in day out. Even they can't possibly know what has happened to any particular vehicle before putting their hands on it.
It makes me nervous to think about opening the fuel system anywhere between the stock canister and the injectors because that is likely where crap will get into the system and do it's damage- after the filter can't help.

 

[Prairie Dog]

From the water damage to injectors that some trucks have experienced without the WIF lamp ever coming on, I think you could submerge the whole truck and never get a light. #@$%!

 

[AH64ID]

I have only gelled once, thank you B20, but it was my 20um filter that plugged and not my 2um. I rectifed that by first not running B20 in winter, and second by adding a fuel heater to the 20um filter.

Water is an issue, but so are contaminates. So why not address both. If you only want to add 1 filter then get a GDP under-hood mount and put a Donaldson P553203 4um f/w sep on it. But if you want to add two filters look at the filtration link on the page in my sig.

 

[TCDiesel]

Here some Pictures taken Today,According to the owner He had dual filtration installed. The truck was smoking and making Oil, I am sure the injectors Are done.

 

[TCDiesel]

The owner Bypass factory fuel filter,I should add the pump is 16 months old, and did NOT leave here in that condition... . It left in like NEW condition.

 

[jgillott]

From the water damage to injectors that some trucks have experienced without the WIF lamp ever coming on, I think you could submerge the whole truck and never get a light. #@$%!

Well, except when in my case, you clean the engine. Then it will come on all the time. :-laf

I swear, the WIF light would be on for days in my old '01 if I even came close to the engine bay with a hose.