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Window RollUp - without ingnition ON?
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I did make this change on my Chevy Suburban but have not done so on my 98. 5 2500 yet. On the Chevy, the wire that supplied the voltage to the roll up windows actually plugs into the fuse box from the front, onto a slot that is hot only after turning on the ignition. However, the fuse box has another slot that is always hot so I just moved the wire over after studying the wiring schematic in a factory manual.
Get a manual and see where the lead comes off of the fuse box on the Dodge. Possibly you will be able to either unplug it or cut the wire and splice into another lead on another fuse.
Be aware, however, that this makes it easier to be broken into. When I would lock my keys in the Sub, I stuck a coat hanger in and depressed the window button and rolled down the window.
Get a manual and see where the lead comes off of the fuse box on the Dodge. Possibly you will be able to either unplug it or cut the wire and splice into another lead on another fuse.
Be aware, however, that this makes it easier to be broken into. When I would lock my keys in the Sub, I stuck a coat hanger in and depressed the window button and rolled down the window.
ALLRIGHT!!! , pull over buddy , 1 HP penalty for posting in the wrong forum , oh wait i'm not a forum cop ... oops ... 
#ad
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i think this one belongs in the mudflap forum , where the stockers reside .#ad
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but its a good topic non the less tlippy, i would like that also ... off to the manual , this should be easy , done with a relay powered by an accesory circuit , just spliced to the cold side of the fuse , only problem could be back feeding power thru the fuse box ... ok 2 relays ... wheres the electrical wizards , i used to be one.
#ad#ad#ad#adi think this one belongs in the mudflap forum , where the stockers reside .
#ad#ad#adbut its a good topic non the less tlippy, i would like that also ... off to the manual , this should be easy , done with a relay powered by an accesory circuit , just spliced to the cold side of the fuse , only problem could be back feeding power thru the fuse box ... ok 2 relays ... wheres the electrical wizards , i used to be one.
I notice alot of new cars (renting far more than I would like lately) have this feature. You turn off the key but the radio stays on and the windows still work. Right up to the point that you open the door... .
So, off the top of my head one idea to emulate that: You could splice into the ignition circuit under the steering wheel with one normally open relay(or solid state circuit) latched on by the ignition side of the circuit (i. e. only when the key is on). A second normally closed relay(or solid state circuit) in series with the first could serve to 'unlatch' the first once power from the dome light is applied to it. Another way to break the latch would be a simple 555 timer to create a time delay.
I know of at least one member how could bang this circuit out in his sleep. . You know who you are, chime in any time... !
So, off the top of my head one idea to emulate that: You could splice into the ignition circuit under the steering wheel with one normally open relay(or solid state circuit) latched on by the ignition side of the circuit (i. e. only when the key is on). A second normally closed relay(or solid state circuit) in series with the first could serve to 'unlatch' the first once power from the dome light is applied to it. Another way to break the latch would be a simple 555 timer to create a time delay.
I know of at least one member how could bang this circuit out in his sleep. . You know who you are, chime in any time... !
Not a technician,but I have owned several Chrysler minivan that have this feature. Can't imagine that there is a big difference in systems.
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Jim Humphrey - Cedar Creek, Tx.
'99 2500 QC, White/Driftwood, Tan Lthr, Blk WeatherGuard Inside bed box, MAAG Boards, Alpine 6 Disc CD, 3-pc. bug shield, 4x4 Mudguards, Line X over the rail,15. 5k Pull Rite 5th hitch. Tow a 29' Alpenlite w/1 slide every time I can.
mailto:jenjim@Impala.net
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Jim Humphrey - Cedar Creek, Tx.
'99 2500 QC, White/Driftwood, Tan Lthr, Blk WeatherGuard Inside bed box, MAAG Boards, Alpine 6 Disc CD, 3-pc. bug shield, 4x4 Mudguards, Line X over the rail,15. 5k Pull Rite 5th hitch. Tow a 29' Alpenlite w/1 slide every time I can.
mailto:jenjim@Impala.net
Ya talkin about me, David? If so, I am already working on it... Been going over some wiring diagrams this weekend... I think I may have something. Anyways, I managed to get my halo light working, wasn't too hard, just had to run a couple of wires fromt he dome light circuit.
The window thing should be very easy. I was thinking about a timer thing too. Also thought about just putting the window circuit on the accessory bus.
BOMBED
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Evan A. Beck "NW PUNK"
Prez, NW BOMBers
'01 2500HD 4x2 QC, 139" WB, 6-speed, ETH, SLT... yadda yadda yadda... K&N, 3" "PIPE BOMB", 6-way turn signal conversion, aux. backup lights, Line-X. 2,945 miles and counting!
Check out NW PUNK for more info!
The window thing should be very easy. I was thinking about a timer thing too. Also thought about just putting the window circuit on the accessory bus.
BOMBED
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Evan A. Beck "NW PUNK"
Prez, NW BOMBers
'01 2500HD 4x2 QC, 139" WB, 6-speed, ETH, SLT... yadda yadda yadda... K&N, 3" "PIPE BOMB", 6-way turn signal conversion, aux. backup lights, Line-X. 2,945 miles and counting!
Check out NW PUNK for more info!
What's the latest on this?
Evan, are you considering wiring into or adding a relay to the interior light circut? Seems the windows could be activated by turning on the interior lights with the light switch or opening the door.
Since the interior circut works without the key in the ignish and has a built-in auto shut off as well it might make a good place to tap into for power or as a control point for a relay.
Whadaya think?
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'99 2500 SLT QC 4X4, LB, Auto, 4. 10 LSD, Bullhide spray-in liner, Gear Vendor OD, Jordan Research T-brake, BD E-brake, BD Autolok, 9. 4K pound 5'ver
Evan, are you considering wiring into or adding a relay to the interior light circut? Seems the windows could be activated by turning on the interior lights with the light switch or opening the door.
Since the interior circut works without the key in the ignish and has a built-in auto shut off as well it might make a good place to tap into for power or as a control point for a relay.
Whadaya think?
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'99 2500 SLT QC 4X4, LB, Auto, 4. 10 LSD, Bullhide spray-in liner, Gear Vendor OD, Jordan Research T-brake, BD E-brake, BD Autolok, 9. 4K pound 5'ver
Rattlin,
You read my mind. I was thinking of 3 things. One could be to put it on the Accessory circuit. Another could be to use a timer, and another is the relay with the interior lighting. Personally, I like the last one the best, as it is the most versatile setup. Wiring diagrams will be done soon. The lighting system uses a negatively switched setup, so it will be a little tricky with a relay. Nothin I can't handle, I am sure!#ad
BOMBED
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Evan A. Beck "NW PUNK"
Prez, NW BOMBers
'01 2500HD 4x2 QC, 139" WB, 6-speed, ETH, SLT... yadda yadda yadda... K&N, 3" "PIPE BOMB", 6-way turn signal conversion, aux. backup lights, Line-X, Cummins badging. 3,406 miles and counting!
Check out NW PUNK for more info!
You read my mind. I was thinking of 3 things. One could be to put it on the Accessory circuit. Another could be to use a timer, and another is the relay with the interior lighting. Personally, I like the last one the best, as it is the most versatile setup. Wiring diagrams will be done soon. The lighting system uses a negatively switched setup, so it will be a little tricky with a relay. Nothin I can't handle, I am sure!
#adBOMBED
------------------
Evan A. Beck "NW PUNK"
Prez, NW BOMBers
'01 2500HD 4x2 QC, 139" WB, 6-speed, ETH, SLT... yadda yadda yadda... K&N, 3" "PIPE BOMB", 6-way turn signal conversion, aux. backup lights, Line-X, Cummins badging. 3,406 miles and counting!
Check out NW PUNK for more info!
Hold on troops. Ever notice the speed difference in window operation with and without the engine running? Without the alternators help, the voltage falls below 12 volts. The window motor now operates at a lower voltage instead of 13. 8, which reduces it's life. Maybe this could take a while to hurt the motors, but who knows?
To err on the side of caution is not to err at all. Just my 0. 00002 cents worth.
Ron
To err on the side of caution is not to err at all. Just my 0. 00002 cents worth.
Ron
While you'r at it how about finding a way to turn off the dome lights with the key in the acc position and the doors open.....
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Randy Richmond, 98. 5 24 valve, 2500, 5 speed, 4x4, 3. 54, LB, QC, Van Aaken CPC, PacBrake, Walker flowthru muffler, Amsoil, running boards, Leer Shell, Metalic Red.
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Randy Richmond, 98. 5 24 valve, 2500, 5 speed, 4x4, 3. 54, LB, QC, Van Aaken CPC, PacBrake, Walker flowthru muffler, Amsoil, running boards, Leer Shell, Metalic Red.
On the 95 it is a piece-o-cake. ( if you want ref matl , look at page 8w-60-1 and 8w-60-2 in the service manual)
1) remove the 30 amp circuit breaker CB1 in the fuse panel.
2)then check the fuse panel with the ign. on to see which side is hot, verify that it is not hot with ign off. (You will use the other terminal, not this one in step 4)
3) make up a short jumper wire with a . 187 male and female blade terminal, insulated of course.
4) plug it onto the circuit breaker. then plug the jumper into the other terminal in the fuse panel. ( ref step 2 above)
5) make up another jumper from a hot all the time source and plug it onto the other terminal of the circuit breaker.
Windows will now work all the time.
Dont know if this will work for other years, but does on my 95.
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95-2500-ExtCab-LB-4x4-Auto-AMSoil Air Filter, Bypass Oil Filter by others, AMSOIL and Mobil Synthetics, TST 255HP and TransGO Shift kit .
[This message has been edited by Randy Hutton (edited 06-07-2000). ]
1) remove the 30 amp circuit breaker CB1 in the fuse panel.
2)then check the fuse panel with the ign. on to see which side is hot, verify that it is not hot with ign off. (You will use the other terminal, not this one in step 4)
3) make up a short jumper wire with a . 187 male and female blade terminal, insulated of course.
4) plug it onto the circuit breaker. then plug the jumper into the other terminal in the fuse panel. ( ref step 2 above)
5) make up another jumper from a hot all the time source and plug it onto the other terminal of the circuit breaker.
Windows will now work all the time.
Dont know if this will work for other years, but does on my 95.
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95-2500-ExtCab-LB-4x4-Auto-AMSoil Air Filter, Bypass Oil Filter by others, AMSOIL and Mobil Synthetics, TST 255HP and TransGO Shift kit .
[This message has been edited by Randy Hutton (edited 06-07-2000). ]
I've wired all my trucks so I can operate the windows with the ignition off.
I open the door panel and locate the hot wire to the electric door locks and the hot wire to the window switch, then jump them together using a scotch clip. Increase the rating of the door lock fuse and remove the fuse for the window circuit so it will not back feed into other circuits.
In the 99+ you cannot remove the window fuse without screwing something else up, so I cut the power lead to the window switch and capped the loose wire. I believe I had to do both doors. Also, in the 99+ you can pop the switch assembly out by compressing the spring clip with a screwdriver slid under the front or back end of the assembly.
This solution is not perfect, but it has worked well on three trucks now, one chevy and two of the prefered brand.
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John S. '99 QC 1T 4. 11 A/T Leather Driftwood, 50 Gal aux tank/tool box, gearvendors, BD brake/autolok, BD ISB comp, guages.
Just a Little BOMBed and liking it a lot.
I open the door panel and locate the hot wire to the electric door locks and the hot wire to the window switch, then jump them together using a scotch clip. Increase the rating of the door lock fuse and remove the fuse for the window circuit so it will not back feed into other circuits.
In the 99+ you cannot remove the window fuse without screwing something else up, so I cut the power lead to the window switch and capped the loose wire. I believe I had to do both doors. Also, in the 99+ you can pop the switch assembly out by compressing the spring clip with a screwdriver slid under the front or back end of the assembly.
This solution is not perfect, but it has worked well on three trucks now, one chevy and two of the prefered brand.
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John S. '99 QC 1T 4. 11 A/T Leather Driftwood, 50 Gal aux tank/tool box, gearvendors, BD brake/autolok, BD ISB comp, guages.
Just a Little BOMBed and liking it a lot.
Randy Hutton,
Thanks for the info. It works very well on my '95. I did it just slightly different but it's the same idea. The way I did it does not require any jumper wires but you need to do a little soldering. The result looks stock from the front of the fuse panel. For those who have the same fuse panel as a '95 here is how I did it.
1) Remove fuses CB1 and CB2. This is to protect them from soldering heat.
2) Remove the knee bolster and the two screws the fasten the fuse panel.
3) Pull the fuse panel out just far enuff so you can get at the back easy. Turn it so the back is facing up.
4) The 12BK/OR wire from CB2 goes about three inches to a splice. Clip it off about a half inch from the splice and use a shrink tube to insullate the stub.
5) Strip a short bare place on the 12RD/BK wire to CB1. This wire comes from B+ via a 50 amp fuse.
6) Solder the 12BK/OR wire from CB2 to the 12RD/BK wire.
7) Tape the joint.
8) Reinstall the fuse panel, knee bolster and the two fuses.
I hope this helps someone.
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Joe George
Eureka, CA
'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver
Thanks for the info. It works very well on my '95. I did it just slightly different but it's the same idea. The way I did it does not require any jumper wires but you need to do a little soldering. The result looks stock from the front of the fuse panel. For those who have the same fuse panel as a '95 here is how I did it.
1) Remove fuses CB1 and CB2. This is to protect them from soldering heat.
2) Remove the knee bolster and the two screws the fasten the fuse panel.
3) Pull the fuse panel out just far enuff so you can get at the back easy. Turn it so the back is facing up.
4) The 12BK/OR wire from CB2 goes about three inches to a splice. Clip it off about a half inch from the splice and use a shrink tube to insullate the stub.
5) Strip a short bare place on the 12RD/BK wire to CB1. This wire comes from B+ via a 50 amp fuse.
6) Solder the 12BK/OR wire from CB2 to the 12RD/BK wire.
7) Tape the joint.
8) Reinstall the fuse panel, knee bolster and the two fuses.
I hope this helps someone.
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Joe George
Eureka, CA
'95 2500 CC auto 4X4,Combo EGT/boost guage,custom switch panel,PacBrake,TST #5,BD valve body,Automatic motorhome steps on both sides,Foldacover hard bed cover,Cummins chrome kit,Black steel grill guard,Front hitch receiver
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