Winter warm-up question

[Pit Bull]

Does it hurt my truck to not let it warm up before I drive it? As long as I wait for the "wait to start light to go out" and follow the instructions in the owners manual for starting the engine. Put the automatic in neutral and wait a couple of minutes before I drive slowly away. Then keep it under 2000 rpm's until the temperure comes up to the warm range. I live in SW Missouri where it normally gets to the 30's at night. We do get some winter days where it will get down to 0, but that is few and far between. I plan on plugging the truck in for a couple of hours before I start it in the morning, any time it would get into the 30 degree range. Sorry about this new Cummins owner dumb question but I don't want to do anything that would screw up my truck.

Thanks

Denny

 

[Fireman Dave]

Dennis,



No dumb questions here. I just wait until the oil pressure comes up, then I drive it. I take it easy and keep it under 2,000 RPMs until the engine temp comes up. No problems for me so far. I also plug it in under 40 degrees to make it a little easier on it - although it'll fire up without it. It warms up best by driving it. I don't think normal idling really does anything for it to warm it up. High idle would be different.



Dave

 

[Pit Bull]

Thanks Dave.

 

[SlyBones]

Denny,



I always wait a minute or so before I drive off. The colder it is the longer I wait. Usually not more that 60-90 seconds. In the summer it may only be 15-20 seconds. This is in the morning when cold. If I have been driving, and the truck is already warm. Just start, wait for oil pressure and go.



Since you have an automatic, this is more important, as its not just engine out that needs to get circulated.



While I do believe that driving a diesel is the best way to warm it up, and sitting there idling is not the way, I personally dont believe that the moment that you see oil pressure it means everything is properly lubed and ready. On cold mornings only waiting the few seconds for oil pressure and then driving off is not my preference.

 

[klenger]

If I'm not towing, I start it, watch for the oil pressure to come up, wait for another 30 - 60 seconds, and then drive easy for the first few blocks. I keep it in a non-heated garage, but I think that helps anyway. If I'm towing, then I wait longer, but still take it easy for a bit.



I use more or less the same procedure at shut down. The last few blocks to my house are slow and easy. When I pull into the garage, I shut down immediately. If I've been towing, I wait a few minutes.



IMHO, this is one of the reasons to use synthetic oil. Better luberciation at startup.



Ken Lenger

 

[metal tech]

here's something else to think about

I follow what the other guys have posted about waiting for the oil pressure to come up. I only have a 7 mile trip to work, last winter it barely got warm on that drive. I put a piece of cardboard in front of the rad with a 12" hole in the middle. The temp got up in about 2 miles. This will help prevent condensation from building up in the engine and causing problems.



Al

 

[Pit Bull]

Re: here's something else to think about

I drive about 17 miles, it is warm by the time I get to the gym (30-35 degree weather so far). Do you think that 17 miles with 10 of them being at 60 miles per hour and I am going up and down hills enough to get rid of any possible condensation? Thanks for the replies, I kinda feel stupid asking these kind of questions but this is the first diesel I have ever owned and I want to do it right. I hate abusing my vehicles.

Thanks

Denny

Originally posted by metal tech

I follow what the other guys have posted about waiting for the oil pressure to come up. I only have a 7 mile trip to work, last winter it barely got warm on that drive. I put a piece of cardboard in front of the rad with a 12" hole in the middle. The temp got up in about 2 miles. This will help prevent condensation from building up in the engine and causing problems.



Al

 

[metal tech]

My definition of warm is the temp needle on at least the ( 1 ) of the 190 mark. I've used the cardboard up to air temps of 75 ( non-towing ) and the temp guage won't go past half-way. I hope this helps.



Al

 

[DiTrani]

Interesting, Thanks

This is good stuff to know - I have a noise/neighbor issue where I live (city). There are literally a dozen people potentially sleeping within 50' of where I park, and I often leave before 6am. I wouldn't feel good about letting it idle for long. I'll just nurse it away after the OP comes up.

 

[klenger]

cditrani



That's the same issue I have. I live in a somewhat upscale townhouse community, and I want to be a good neighbor. I try to keep my idle time to a minimum. If I have to warm up or cool down early morning or at night, I do it outside the development.



Here's is what home looks like here: #ad




Ken

 

[Fireman Dave]

Dennis: Don't worry! No stupid questions here! We were all new once! This is my first diesel - had it 18 months, now. I'm still learning, too. This time last year, I was trying to learn this stuff, too - and also about fuel additives/gelling, winter fronts, block heater, etc... I've learned a ton on this site and from my fellow local TDR friends. As you can see, there aren't definite hardline answers on some of this stuff. A lot of it is opinion based on personal experience and gut feelings.



As far as the winter front, I wondered about this last winter. I cut a hole in a piece of cardboard for the radiator and threw it in my box for my trip to SD at Christmas, but I never used it. It was about -10 on that trip, but my cab stayed nice and toasty - no problems with heat or engine temp, so I pitched the cardboard. I figure if I didn't need it on that trip, I'd never need it. The guys who use a winter front seem to use it more in aiding the engine in heating up faster (especially for short drives to work) so they'll get heat faster in the cab. I drive a company vehicle, so I don't have that need. Again, just my experience and opinion for me.



Ken: Nice pic! I really like that Atlantic blue color - I don't think I've seen that one in person yet. Sharp!



Dave

 

[tntway]

length of drive to work...

ok guys, what do y'all consider a short drive to work. i've got a 16 mile run. now i realize that it ain't as long as some of you, but

is that considered a short run and what should i do for the winter?...

 

[WCrovo]

I use my exhaust brake too warm her up. It especially helpful when towing first thing in the am on cold winter mornings. I also plug her in when home.

 

[Steve Roseman]

I have a 16 mile drive to work also. I usually start my truck about five or ten minutes before departure. After it has oil pressure and the grid heater quits cycling, I set my fast idle at 1200 rpm and go back inside.

When it gets down to around 30 like it has this week, I plug the old girl in. It would start just fine without it, but seems so much happier in the morning if it's been plugged in.

 

[CRuD]

Yard stick cut to 7 1/4"

Yes we do get cold (Kinda) here in N C sometimes we even get frost.

This is what I do. I start my truck and after the oil pres. builds I insert my "Idle Controler" between the go pedal and the dash. The idle controler runs the engine at about 1150/1200 RPM.

Then I go back in the house and get my lunch or what ever and let her run for a couple of minutes.

Just remember that other fluids are cold to and take it easy on them (dif and Trans).



I learned this last year on the TDR. If you use the cardboard in front of the Rad. It is advised that you cut a circle in the center (in front of the center of the fan) the reason behind this is to keep the fan balanced as far as air coming in.



After reading some of the posts on running no fan I may try that this year.

See Ya

Chris

 

[Bigsaint]

When I didn't have the ebrake, I made a high idle controller out of some 3/8" stock, a turnbuckle, to rubber end caps and a few nuts. Wedge between the front seat bracket and the go pedal, it worked real well and was adjustable. Here's a pic.



#ad




Scott W.

 

[redneckdr]

high idle

dang it big saint, you've infringed on my patent, i think!! i found out that one of the extensions for my shop vac is jut the right length to put between the seat and go pedal. with power seats, just slide the seat forward , watching the tac, until see about 1200rpm... ... ..... my fast idle, for now.

 

[JohnE]

fanless rocks

I tried fanless this season. Wish I had done it before. Only drawback is running the A/C (read defrost)while standing (idling, traffic, etc. ) it will really heat things up. I'm searching for the directions to disable the A/C. I will add my cold fronts (once I find them), too. I plug it in every night and set the timer based on overnight lows. Next oil change I'm replacing the panbolt with a <a href=http://www.kimhotstart.com/ target=_blank>Kim Hotstart</a> along with AMSOIL 5W-30. Delo is nice in the summer, but get very stiff once temps drop below 32&deg;F.



Commute? Mine's a rough one! 2 miles and 2 traffic lights. On colder days I take a long loop that gets me over 5 miles.



-John

 

[Lsfarm]

Part Number??

JohnE, can you post the part # for the imersion heater you are going to install?



I've been to the site you had in your above post [thanks] but see generic heaters. I'm a bit computer challenged and can't seem to find an application chart with part numbers or engine applications.



Also: what is the price??



I've also looked at the pan heaters that attach to the outside of the pan, [self stick] and am thinking of going that way, so I don't have a wire hanging directly out of the bottom of the oil pan. I just know that I'll hook a stick and pull it off!



I believe that warm oil, synthetic oil, and the block heater is the only way to go in cold weather. Each cold engine start under 20 F. or so HAS to have an effect on engine longevity!

Anybody know of any studies out there on cold start=early overhaul??



Any help appreciated! Greg L

 

[JJW_ND]

5W oil really helps!

John, if your truck is a pre 98 it is pretty easy to disable the AC. Illflem posted the link on a thread the other day. Total eliminates the AC compressor problem. I like this route better because one can still turn on AC for defrost when cruising if needed and run the AC a few times over the winter which I think helps the AC system.



Full synthetic 5W oil really helps winter operation. Much less starting drag, almost instant oil pressure and the additve package one pays the big bucks for keeps all the bad side affects of condensation, cool operation in check. I had 20K on my oil going into last december (record cold month). Drained in January (25K on the oil) after driving every day and mostly intown short trips. Not really much change from from the previsous sample a 19K. WHile it is expensive, you really get your moneys worth up here cold operation. And even in the winter months one can extend drains with just a good primary filter as I do.



If my truck sat out all winter and I need to start every morning here in ND, I would add a oil heater. Because I am in a garage that only gets down to zero and I can plug in, the oil heater is not neccessary IMO! I rarely plug in at work where truck sets out all day with the 5W oil.



jjw

ND