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Wow---Rear Axle

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Clutch Boot

93 Chassis and Body

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Hey guys, long time no see. How you all been?



Last night I pulled my trailer home, and when I stopped I smelled a bit of a burning kind of a smell when I got out of the truck, I figured, ahhh that's just the clutch from working hard. Well, on my way to work today all of a sudden I'm kinda hearing this faint squealing, I look in the mirror and holy crap man, my wheel is jogging beside the truck! So, with the momentum I had I got over to the side of the road and stopped the rig and the wheel stopped right in the middle of the road pretty much right beside me, with a big axle shaft pointing up, drum and all. I didn't think this kind of thing happened on these trucks' rearends? The threads on the spindle are now blown open, which i'm guessing happened when the axle came out. I've never pulled a rear axle out so I can't figure out what went wrong, and I've stared at my service manual for quite awhile trying to figure out exactly what keeps these axles from coming out in the first place... surely it can't be completely relying on the C-clamp in diff. I don't know what the heck I'm gonna do now. I'd like to go D80, but that would probably cost too much and take too long to do.

Have you guys seen or heard of this happening?

Definitely not what I needed at this point :(



Carl
 
Unbolt the axle from the hub and you will see what holds the hub to the spindle. There will be a large nut behind the axle flange that screws to the spindle threads and holds the outer bearing on. If the lock fails for whatever reason, the nut can unscrew with the forward rotation of the left hub/bearing turning.





"NICK"
 
It has happened on a few occasions. Not that often though. Like Nick says, for some reason the nut was able to back off. Is the spindle salvagable? If not then *I* would replace the rear end. It is possible to cut off the spindle and weld a new one on, but I suspect that it would cost almost as much as finding another 70 rear. Figure on spending $4-600 on a dana 70 or 80 rear. There is a thread around here about putting an 80 in the rear of a first gen. If you have some time to hunt around, this is what I would do.



Michael
 
HI Carl



I have seen this happen a few times over the years. Like Michael said it would probably be cheaper to find another axle.
 
Well, finding a D80 locally is just flat out not going to happen. The only way I'll be getting one of those is off the classifieds on this site... there are a few and I'm wanting to go that route. Ok, so from what I'm reading, all 80's are the same and will bolt in with the 2nd gen mounting pads, longer U bolts and all that stuff, so I don't have to worry about wasting $ on a rear I can't use, correct? And, if it's off a dually then you just grind the tapers off the lug holes on the rim, and then from there when you have the single wheel rims on there it looks normal? Will the hub be sticking out further or anything? (I'm worried about being able to install my original hubcaps and beauty rings LOL). Thanks for any help in advance.

Carl
 
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D80's in 2500's?

Hey folks,



In the classifieds I found a diff from a 2001, which he says is a single wheel D80... my first thoughts are 1:) Is it for sure for sure an 80 because as far as I know 80s come in 350's and 70s come in 250s. So after some reading in the second gen forum it appears that 80s did come in the 3/4 tons...

2:) Is it my dream come true? A single wheel 80 lol which means the rims should fit on with no modifications at all, am I right?



Even after all this I still love my truck, although we seem to be in somewhat of an abusive relationship, I abuse her and she abuses me lol



Carl
 
Awesome, thanks Spotted Cow Tipper lol... that's great news :)



Being from an '01 it should still work shouldn't it? There isn't any reason why an axle would change over the years is there? I'm a little worried about screwing up lol



Carl
 
Greenleaf!!! How you doin' ol buddy? I wanted so bad to make it down to the last SOP and life just wouldn't permit :( Next time you see me my truck will have tracks and a turret stickin' out of it lol
 
if you want a good axle try looking for a corp 14 bolt from a chevy you may have to move spring perches but they are pretty beefy and have bigger brakes then the stock rearend in the first gen's
 
As much as I can tell, that should be a pretty straight forward swap. I'm not sure, but the yoke may be different on the newer D80. I might be full of BS though. And even if it is, I'll bet you can get the appropriate yoke welded and balanced onto your driveshaft for under $100 by an axle shop. Anyway, I somewhat doubt its different anyway. As far as the leafs go, I'm not exactly the axle guru, but my buddy swapped his axles on his 97 half ton (D44/D60) for some out of a 3/4, which I believe was around a 94 auto, giving it the D60/D70 setup. As far as I know he had no issues at all, between the year difference or the axle size.
 
D70 dodge alxes sell for 250 around here. d80s are harder to find, and in the 350 range. Unless youve smoked you 15 year old d70 axle, there is no reason to upgrade to a d80 IMO. Unless you just want to. THen go for it. Call around to some axle shops to see how much it would cost to weld on a new spindle. We did one at work, and it cost around 500 bucks for the company to come out, put a on-truck lathe, machine it down, weld a new one back on.
 
Have you done/seen this Simplysmn? It's a thought, although this is my work truck and I need this to happen as quickly as possible, I can't really take my time on this. Your sure it would fit? Beefier is always better :) Then again, I'm not even positive that any Dana80 will fit either, but i think there's a pretty good chance...
Where the heck is Rice Farmer guy from MO ? :p If there's anyone who would know about this stuff it would be good old the one and the only Daniel Puckett :) There's nuthin Daniel doesn't know, in fact I want to learn some premium foreplay strategies and that's the guy I'm gonna ask LOL

Edited to add:
I've worked that diff pretty hard in the past especially with the really hard pulls pulling that machine out of the mud, so, if I were to keep that diff I'm not sure how long before I'll be seeing downtime again, and I sure as heck dont want down time in the summer. Also when the axle came out it completely wore off the splines so for sure one new axle is needed, no idea how much that would cost. break drum and shoes also, so when taking all that into consideration when you subtract the cost to get my diff (or another D70) put in/fixed from the cost to put in an 80, which from what i read is somewhat beefier (and I'm sure isn't quite as "well used" as mine is), which I'm still trying to figgure out what the net cost to upgrade would be, is it worth it? I dunno. If it was a truck that was just used for running around with not much of a load that would be one thing, but pulling around 18-20k my personal preference is to go heavier if possible.

Thanks for the input, it's much appreciated :)
 
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Forget the 14 bolt, unless you want lower gears. The tallest gears you can get to my knowledge are 3. 73. AS far as I know, there is no 3. 55 available for one. Yes 14 bolts are cheep, easy to find, and pretty stout, but limited on gear ratios for a highway driven truck. You'd then have to regear the front..... and you would have to cut off the spring perches and reweld them for proper fit. I've got two dodges with 14 bolt rears, both are 4. 10 geared, one welded and one with a detroit. BTDT.



I'd lean twords the 80, especially if you tow heavy. I've had a couple dana 70's apart that towed a bunch and they will beat the shims out of the ring gear side of the carrier, then take out the ring and pinion.



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...um-1989-1993/157198-dana-70-80-questions.html This should lead you in the right direction, and answer your questions.



Michael
 
My biggest thing, when considering any upgrade to a heavier duty part, is "what can I do to make sure this thing never leaves me stranded?" I've been tossing around the idea of swapping a manual in to replace my auto, and a beefy manual at that. Everyone tells me how much its gonna cost, and how time consuming it will be. I want a tank. Its gonna hit your wallet just as hard to be broken down 1000 miles from home, at the mercy of a local shop, and living out of a hotel room. Add to that, it may not take as long as actually doing the swap, but now you're wasting precious hours you hadn't alotted for. You use your truck for work. You ripped up your rear end doing what you do. Go ahead, replace it with the factory OEM part. Pay the $250 or whatever the decided going price was. It'll take you less than a day and you'll be up and running. Have fun doing it again 6 months later. Is that when you'll get a little smarter and put in the beefier part? Now you just paid for one OEM axle and one beefier axle. Maybe wait until the third time it happens. 2 D70s, and a D80 you now paid for. Also time without your work truck. Might be in the middle of a very important job. Now you get a complex, too. Now, 3 axles later, when you go to tow a trailer, your hands sweat every time you take off just waiting to hear that wonderful grinding/clanging/banging noise that youve by this time become very familiar with.



I guess what my thoughts on it are, is why not just put the extra time and money in to have that peace of mind? Every part on your truck has a limit, and the D80 just happens to help you up the limit just a little bit. What fried your D70, may fall into submission behind your D80. There's always a bigger fish... I aim to always be that bigger fish.
 
Thanks Michael, awesome thread!! Now why couldn't I find it lol. Only question I have is will I be able to use the same ebrake cable from the 70? Although, I'm not sure if it's the actual cable or the brakes on the thing but it's all seized up, damn thing don't work.



Hey there TSC, that is good advice, I want a tank too :) Although I do think that my rearend troubles was more of a fluke than anything. Heavier is better though yes, especially if you work the thing like I do. I wish I could have put in the 6 speed transmission instead ;)
 
I can't believe DP hasn't put his swamp sited $. 02 in here. He's usually right on top of these things. Must be doing the "slum lord" thing and is too busy. :-laf
 
I'm sure he'll find his way here eventually, he's probably just got a member(s) of the opposite sex keeping his attention off of us lol. Ya got a freakin' harum goin there Daniel? haha



Anyways, I got tha LSD pumpkin on its way and should be here for friday, and I'm hoping we can have the project done on saturday. I'm trying to get any ground work done I can before that day comes, like shortening the driveshaft beforehand, but I'm also scared the yolk may not be the right one because it's off a '01. My buddy builds trailers for a living and we're doing it in his shop... he figures the u-bolts we should just go get made up at this local spring shop, because the guy I bought my axle from said he had bought them but they cost like $200! Wow. I suppose I will need the 2nd gen mounting pads, which I guess I will have to buy direct from Dodge. I plan to use the RC Cola method and use the bottom plates from the D70 to mount the shocks.



Oh oh, I think I missed something as far as wheels go, My rims will not fit on the D80 am I understanding this right? Different lug sizes? The axle coming is a srw axle, and it is off of a 2500 so I've got my fingers crossed. I guess I should shoot the guy an email and see what the lug size is. Any other preparations? If the ebrake cable from the 70 doesn't work I will go without for awhile no big deal, but getting the truck on the road is pretty critical, and getting parts on sunday and stuff could be difficult so hopefully the ducks will be lined up...



Carl
 
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