2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Y to T steering conversion

[JessePayne]

I Just ordered my parts for this conversion. Prices have gone up compared to the posts that were originally mode on tdr. www.rockauto.com is the cheapest by far. You dont even want to know how much advance auto is charging thru their internet site. I figured I had better do it before the price jumps again. The total came to $332. 00 with shipping. Found all the part numbers through a search on this site.

 

[kswieringa]

What are the part #'s

 

[JessePayne]

I have a 2001 so I ordered the pitman arm tierod end for my year truck. This way you dont have to swap out your pitman arm as well. The rest of the components were for a 99. Heres the list







Part Number Price EA Core EA Quantity Total

2001 DODGE RAM 2500 PICKUP 5. 9L 359cid L6 DIESEL FI Turbo (6)

MOOG ES3527 $ 32. 79 $ 0. 00 1 $ 32. 79

1999 DODGE RAM 2500 PICKUP 5. 9L 359cid L6 DIESEL FI Turbo (6)

MOOG ES2012S $ 19. 63 $ 0. 00 1 $ 19. 63

MOOG DS1456 $ 142. 79 $ 0. 00 1 $ 142. 79

MOOG DS1459 $ 43. 89 $ 0. 00 1 $ 43. 89

MOOG ES3496 $ 42. 79 $ 0. 00 1 $ 42. 79

MOOG ES3498S $ 35. 79 $ 0. 00 1 $ 35. 79

Shipping $ 14. 60

Order Total $ 332. 28

 

[rono]

What are the advantages of doing this type of swap, and what does it do for us?



Thanks, Ron

 

[JessePayne]

the y style set up tends to wear prematurely cause more slop in the front end and steering wander. Bad engineering. The T style is a proven winner.

 

[CumminsPower98]

Another advantage is that with the Y style any change in front end hight also slightly changes the wheel toe setting. For exaple when the front end goes down the Y is straightening out (getting longer) so it will cause the wheels to toe out and visa versa. The T style having a solid bar between the two wheels is much stronger and holds the toe setting in place no matter what the hight of the front end is. I have yet to understand why they ever made the Y style.

 

[kswieringa]

I think with the y steering it puts the drag link on the same plane as the track bar to reduce bump steer.

Reduces bump steer but wears quick.

I installed all new parts less than 10k miles ago and the right side tie rod is already shot

I am thinking of Bullet proof steering next

 

[CumminsPower98]

I think you are right about the bump steer but it's not noticable with such a slight angle but if the truck was lifted and didn't get a dropped pitman arm then it might be a problem.

I think with the y steering it puts the drag link on the same plane as the track bar to reduce bump steer.

Reduces bump steer but wears quick.

I installed all new parts less than 10k miles ago and the right side tie rod is already shot

I am thinking of Bullet proof steering next

 

[rono]

Then..... , according to the parts list above, it would be cheaper and better to do the change over than to go the DSS brace and trackbar route.



Does that seem reasonable and right?



Ron

 

[CumminsPower98]

If your track bar is loose you still need to fix that and the DSS will help no matter what the tie rods are doing. I still need to do a DSS some day myself.

 

[JSellers]

Then..... , according to the parts list above, it would be cheaper and better to do the change over than to go the DSS brace and trackbar route.



Does that seem reasonable and right?



Ron

Well, that's not really correct - except, it might be cheaper.



These three different modifications target wear/weakness for different front end components. They all are related to steering issues, but the components exhibit wear in different locations in the front end. It may be difficult to determine which components are the root problem for any given steering issue, but they can all contribute in a slightly different manner.



You might want to read further about all these mods.



John

 

[RDHamill]

I'd like to see a picture of each of the "T" & "Y"set ups, can anyone post one or both?

which is the stock set up considered to be?

thanks

 

[CumminsPower98]

I don't have a picture of the Y type installed but I have them both laying on the floor and the T installed. See my mods page in the signature for pictures. '98 and '99 were the only years that I know of where the T style or heavy duty as they called it was stock. All others seem to be the Y style.

 

[frosty]

Not my pics but it shows you the difference.



"Y" setup

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"T" setup

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[DJAustin]

Do you know if the 99 part numbers will fit on my 95?

 

[Joe Mc]

Wow I was worried I'd have to change something else on my truck. I had not a clue what "Y" and "T" meant. Thank goodness for the pictures, now I know the difference and that mine is of the "T" configuration. Man what a lousey design on the "Y" set up. . .

 

[kswieringa]

I have replaced the complete system twice under warranty , but now it's out of my pocket. Part of the time I was running 305/70/16's on 16x10's.

The last time I was all stock tires on stock rims .

The one thing I suspect is the 2" leveling kit. I may go to the aftermarket system which used heavy duty Heim joints and at 45 bucks a pop ,much cheaper to replace worn parts. The only drawback is the initial extra $300 over the t system change over

 

[AWray]

Unless Thuren Fabrication has increased their prices, they make a "T" style cross-over steering kit for $340. It looks like a nice kit. Check out http://www.thurenfabrication.com/

 

[BDanner]

"Almost" New steering

I converted mine over along with a new PSC steering gear box and the (DSS) bracket over 1 year ago. Very noticable improvement!



One thing that you loose is your steering stabilizer connection on the drag link. Only on very bumpy roads with oversize tires would I think you would miss it. I believe you can find a bracket kit for mounting a stabilizer on the Dana axle and the tie rod.

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I set my caster at a fairly aggressive number at the alignment shop to ward off any "death wobble".



Note: Additional items to the above that improved handling were - upper and lower ball joints, front wheel bearings about $800 (not much choice when changing ball joints), front axle u-joints, '03 trackbar with bracket, new power steering lines and 6 new tires.

Overall gut and rebuild was about $2200+ in parts plus $1000 in tires.

 

[JessePayne]

I have an update on my y to t steering conversion. The old unit came out real easy with a tierod/pitman puller from autozone. Adjusting the new set up for close to correct alignment is not to easy. I took a measurement off my old set up then installed the unit, put the tires back on lowered her to the ground and used and measured the front tire to tire inside front and inside back distance. Readjusted the tie rod and tightened the locking clamps. It took about two hours for me. All I have to say is this improved my steering alot. My old setup was worn worse than I had thought. Nice upgrade, next is the steering gear and shaft.