Yukon or SpynTec ?

[frank1]

Need new front Axle u-joints, again. Fourth set in 145,000 miles! Looking to buy either Yukon or SpynTec Shorty for my 03' SRW. Read many reviews, comments on both units. Just trying to decide within the next few days, u-joints are real bad! I also have a Boss 8'-6" plow installed on the truck. Thanks, Frank

 

[Prairie Dog]

Since the wear on your U-joints probably happens with plowing, wont they still wear out with one of these kits assuming you have it in 4WD while plowing?
Normally the front U-joints don't wear out anywhere near that fast.

 

[frank1]

That's just it, I rarely use four wheel drive. We plow a lot of parking lots and private roadways and a few driveways. The only time you would need four wheel drive is when going up a steep driveway. Usuaully carry 20-25 50 pound bags of either calcium or rock salt in the back our trucks, seems to work fine for traction. All my plows come off the trucks once we are done with any one storm (nice thing about Boss plows they go on or off in about 10 seconds). I just don't like the idea of having all those parts under there consistently moving when not needed. Plus I like the idea while backing up trailers and using low. I had my 92' switched over to warn locking hubs years ago, one of the best things I did to that truck.

 

[AH64ID]

Both my dad and I have the yukon kit and like it. I have had some wheel bearing issues, but i think all the kits use the same bearings.. And I cannot pinpoint my issues to the kit, and yukon customer service is impeccable.

 

[Prairie Dog]

I didn't realize you didn't use 4WD that much. Gotta wonder what taking out those joints.
I know what you mean about the 2WD low in R. I had the front DS out last year to get it balanced (trying to find vibe) and ended up leaving it off all summer so I could back my trailer up easy. It's almost worth pulling it off over the summer just for that!

Scott

 

[rscurtis]

Are you using greaseable U-joints? If not, it may be a worthwhile upgrade. Install them so the section with the fitting is under compression, not tension. I know that solid joints are supposed to be stronger, but what's the benefit of that if you keep wearing them out instead?

I'm a Dynatrac fan myself, made in USA. Regardless of which way you go, it's a very worthwhile upgrade.

 

[jwduke]

I have the Spyntec shorty kit, no problems with it, easy to install. Mine came with Mile-Marker hubs, they are metal construction. They were a little stiff to operate at first, but work as smooth as butter now.

 

[AH64ID]

I has a hard time finding any shop that recommended greaseable joints, they are weaker and because they are greaseable they have lower quality seals. They can work good if they are continuously serviced, but with the seal they allow contamination easier.

 

[EDankievitch]

Last set I installed were from Spyntec, they offered free shipping when I said that I was a member here. I figured they would send them the slowest cheapest way I had them in two days!

 

[Wayne M.]

I have older long snout spyntecs with greasable joints. Approx 15k daily driver miles. No problems here.

 

[Shadrach]

I have the Dyna tracs on my 03 SRW. I wanted them for back up as well since I have a rather grabby clutch. In the summer I leave them unlocked unless needed. In the winter I leave them locked so that I can use 4X4 when needed. They do stick out a bit but I just cut holes in the hub caps. I chose them because of availability and I bought their ball joints at the same time. David

 

[frank1]

Yes, the u-joints I have on this particular truck are grease able. I greased them back in November, and noticed water coming out the opposite ends of the fittings (not good!).Had my truck in to have the governor solenoid,neutral switch and pressure transducer replaced (not wanting to shift into third without letting up on throttle and no park or neutral indicators showing up on panel, works great now!), and the mechanic noticed both axle u-joints "in very bad shape". Six hundred bucks to replace including parts. I thought to myself, at this point since he's going to replace the u-joints why not upgrade to lockable hubs? These trucks run great, one of the weak points to me are the weak front ends. I also considered buying a new truck, just cannot justify the cost at this time. So I figured if I invested a few thousand dollars into the front end i'd be better off in the long run.

 

[Wayne M.]

Good logic frank1.
I get water out of almost anything I grease. Especially u joints. Is it safe to assume non greasable joints DO NOT get water in them- better seals or not? I'd rather go down with the grease gun once in a while.

 

[rscurtis]

Absolutely. If the sealed joints were that good, frank1 shouldn't have needed four sets in 145K miles. Disclaimer: If you have greaseable joints, you have to grease them. I do mine at least once a year, and always after driving in a rainstorm, even if I didn't use 4WD. I also jack up that wheel, engage the hub, and rotate the joint to make sure grease has reached all four bearings.

 

[AH64ID]

The seals on non greaseable are much tighter than greaseable, if you don't grease them very regularly they will let water and junk in. I'd rather not worry about additional maintenance where there is a stronger, lower maintenace part available.

My OEM joints at 85K were perfect shape, I only replaced them because of the spin-free kit. I went with OEMs again, based on several shop recommendations.

 

[Wayne M.]

In the case of my rear shaft, I'm getting longer service out of the greasable precisions I put in than the OE joints. The OE rear joint welded itself to one cap.

 

[frank1]

Thanks everyone for all your insight. So far, I counted three Yukon, three Spyntec and two Dynatrac free wheeling hubs by all the posters up to this point. I'am leaning more towards the Spyntec shorty. One reason cost,integral ABS sensor mount,wheels will be in same alignment as stock. Negative side, need to cut off 3/8" off of bearing unit assembly?, and M.M. hubs (will ask if Warn could be substituted).Like to make final decision in the next few days so that the unit along with the new axle u-joints can installed before the next snow storm. Also, seriously considering converting the remaining trucks I own to free wheeling hubs in the next year or so. Thanks again, Frank

 

[AH64ID]

The Yukon kit is the cheapest, or it was when I bought my kit. It does require more assembly, thus the cost savings.

Spyntec will substitute Warn hubs for about $100.

The bearing part of the kit aside, I think the Yukon lockouts are the toughest, and they are the smallest.

The sealed ABS ring always brings up a debate, sypntec did it because all of their roads are salted. None of the other kits do it, and OEM did it because there isn't a good way to expose it on their sealed bearing.

One of the reasons I chose yukon is the bearing spacing is farther apart and will provide better loading in corners, and cooler bearings.

AFIK none of the kits increase the track width.

 

[frank1]

Thanks AH64ID for the clarifications. I checked on prices and availability, EMS Offroad in Danville, PA (about 160 miles west of me, cheaper shipping rates?) has the Yukon unit for $1651.86, the Spyntec for $1550.00 and EMS (another unit to throw in the mix!!! ) for $1495.00, all in stock. Plus shipping. Will call them tomorrow and ask a few more questions on all three units. Thanks again.

 

[AH64ID]

It's been about 9 months since I bought mine. I got my Yukon for 1525, and a sypntec with warns would have been over 1700. I didn't price EMS and I believe Dynatrac was over 2000.