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Yukon or SpynTec ?

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Fluid level down on power steering

Tie rod recall service

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I did the Spyn-tec shorty switch Mile Marker hubs. The quality of the kit was outstanding. All was included except the axle u joints, so I bought the Precision greaseable joints. Much easier steering and the mileage is up about one mpg plus backing up is much easier in low range. I would buy the Spyn tec kit again.
 
Negative side, need to cut off 3/8" off of bearing unit assembly?

frank1, the only cutting or mod was trimming the hub bearing attaching bolts with the spyntec kit. You're removing the hub bearings which have open holes and putting spindles in place that have blind holes. The bolts will bottom out unless shortened. This was the only surprise I encountered when doing the job. It wasn't mentioned anywhere but in the instructions. Also I see you're in NJ. I got a great cash deal (uncle sam wasn't involved), and was able to pick up the kit (it's REAL heavy! lots of boxes, $hipping must be unreal) from Extreme Axle in New City (Rockland). The owner's name is Doug, and we had a good transaction.
 
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frank1, the only cutting or mod was trimming the hub bearing attaching bolts with the spyntec kit. You're removing the hub bearings which have open holes and putting spindles in place that have blind holes. The bolts will bottom out unless shortened. This was the only surprise I encountered when doing the job. It wasn't mentioned anywhere but in the instructions. Also I see you're in NJ. I got a great cash deal (uncle sam wasn't involved), and was able to pick up the kit (it's REAL heavy! lots of boxes, $hipping must be unreal) from Extreme Axle in New City (Rockland). The owner's name is Doug, and we had a good transaction.[/QUOte




THe cutting of the bolts was required on the old units. The new design does not require cutting the bolts. It's a nice simple install now.
 
Finally pulled the trigger! Called and spoke to Tom at EMS Offroad in PA. I ordered his kit "EMS" Extreme duty conversion kit for $1495.00. His company makes the Yukon kit and sells it to Yukon and Yukon puts their name on it! His kit (and Yukon) come with his lock out hubs w/ limited life time warranty and 4340 chromoly 35 spline axles. We also talked about the axle u-joints, he agree's stick with the AAM non greaseable joints, stronger and last longer. I also ordered a pair at $85.00 each. The total price for free spin kit,u-joints and shipping to my door $1705.00. Should have everything by Wednesday. Again, I want to thank everyone for all your advise and wisdom. Two good things to have: a Dodge w/ a cummins in it and being a TDR member!!! Thanks, again, Frank.
 
That's what the OEM joints cost, and like I mentioed I couldn't find a shop that recommended anything but them based on reliability and strength.
 
Wayne, no I'am not doing the install - after 10.5 years of Jersey road salt, I'll let my mechanic have all the fun! Also, yes each u-joint $85.00 ea. (2-$170.00 total), $1495.00 for the free spin kit and $40.00 for shipping, no sales tax - Grand total of $1705.00 to the door.Check out their web site EMS Offroad. They specialize in heavy duty off road applications.
 
For those who are still thinking about buying free spin hubs I will mention that with the Dyna Tracs I installed their longer wheel studs only to have to cut them off to install my stock hub caps ( after I drilled a big hole in them ). David
 
How much of a job is it to install the hubs?
What would be a reasonable price to pay a competent mechanic to do the job.
Also, would it be a good idea to replace the ball joints at the same time and is there anything else to replace while its torn apart?
 
How much of a job is it to install the hubs?
What would be a reasonable price to pay a competent mechanic to do the job.
Also, would it be a good idea to replace the ball joints at the same time and is there anything else to replace while its torn apart?


It depends on how mechanically inclined you are. It's a very doable job for the average to above average shade tree mechanic. A big part of it (like any job) is having the proper tools. I can't tell you what it would cost to have a shop perform the work but it is somewhat labor intensive (depending on the region you live in) and isn't going to be cheap. The first time I tore the front end of my truck down it took me about 3 hours per side just for the tear down, 13 years of living in the rust belt had everything frozen solid. I had to go back in there again 2 years later and had the same job took less than 45 minutes per side. Cleaning everything up and using liberal amounts of anti sieze is a must when re assembling...
I ended up replacing my ball joints while I was in there with greaseables. They were all within spec but the boots were dry rotted from age and it was only a matter of time. I did everything while I was in there minus the unit bearings which I drilled and tapped to make them serviceable.
 
I was quoted about $600.00 dollars to have both of my axle u-joints replaced ($200.00 in material and $400.00 in labor). That's what made me decide that it was time to get a free spin kit (also fourth set of axle u-joints!). I'd rather take the four hundred dollars and invest that money into installing the new free spin kit. The truck is going in this Friday for the install. I'll post what the final costs to me will be. According to the vendor where I purchased the kit, it can take anywhere from six to eight hours to install (without Ball Joints). I did not what to attempt the install, due to the simple fact this is a plow truck for the past 10.5 years. Each snow storm we go out when 1" of snow accumulates and either begin salting or plowing and stay out until at least four to six hours after the storm has pasted. When traveling site to site your either behind a salt truck or one has just gone by, even though all my trucks are completely washed down after each storm- you simply can not get everything off. As the old saying goes "salt never sleeps!".
 
Just got a message, the truck is all complete and ready to get picked up. I'll pick it up tomorrow. The mechanic also installed all four ball joints with Moog and also a new right tie rod. Took him ten hours to complete the entire job. He also said that he really liked the kit, it was complete and looked "solid". I'll pick it up some time tomorrow morning.
 
Frank, sorry I didn't see this thread sooner. I have an EMS kit from back when they used redrilled ford spindles. I'll say no more other than if they still use the aluminum block to mount the ABS sensor then you need to be aware that the aluminum will corrode and the sensor will seize in the block. Trying to wiggle it out will break the plastic sensor, don't ask how I know. I got lucky and covered the broken sensor's exposed windings with dielectric grease and stuffed it back into the broken off cover which was still stuck in the aluminum block. Several years later it is still working, but now the right side sensor has failed. I haven't looked at that one yet.

If they still use the aluminum block you may want to enlarge the bore in the block so there is room for corrosion without seizing on the sensor, or try treating the bore with something to prevent corrosion, or, best yet, make a block out of stainless so it will not corrode in the first place. Also, if the locking hubs rattle call Warn and they will send you another set of internal locking rings so you can double them up to tighten the lockouts to the hubs. Hopefully the newer kits have been upgraded so these things are no longer an issue.

Anyhow, you will like the steering feel with the hubs unlocked.

As for the ujoints, my 05 is the best truck I've owned, but it has eaten more u-joints than my other dozen or so vehicles over the last 30+ years combined! Seems factory or aftermarket joints, DIY or professionally installed, getting 50K miles out of them is the best that can be hoped for, even after the free spin kit. And I haven't even put the plow on this truck.

Found a picture from the last ujoint change. The black plastic is the broken sensor cover.

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brods, thanks for the heads up. I picked up the truck yesterday, boy what a difference in steering!!! Also, the truck does seem to"coast" a lot better when you let up on the throttle. My kit came with EMS (Yukon same thing) locking hub. Tom the original designer of the EMS kit said he guarantee's his locking hubs for life, so I'll try them. I'll also try to get some anti seize on the sensors, I can't remember if they where alum. or stainless. The only other surprise, was the hubs stick out further than the wheels. I thought they stopped just short of the wheels (maybe that was Dyna Trac, or some other manufacture). I will try to post a pic in the near future. Frank
 
I have had my EMS hub kit installed in my truck for over 40,000 miles and they have performed flawlessly. I have only had them engaged in 4WD for less than 1000 miles. The biggest benefit has been LIGHTER steering and the BEST advantage that I use at least monthly is LOW RANGE REVERSE putting the transfer case in 4wd low but the hubs un-locked. HUGE advantage while parking a trailer with a manual trans and a South Bend clutch. 2WD LOW will be a reverse gear saver in the AUTOMATICS when parking a trailer. One of the BEST mods I did on my truck.
 
These are the pictures of the Yukon Free Spin Kit installed on my '03 quad cab
Yukon Spin Kit 1.JPG

Yujkon Free Spin 2.JPG


Yukon Spin Kit 1.JPG


Yujkon Free Spin 2.JPG
 
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