Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Throttle cable recall = $$$$$$

[Wedge]

So I took my '94 in to get a couple recalls taken care of (Throttle & hood latch) and as I'm getting to the dealer my truck does some funny or not so funny things. As I'm coasting to a stop the rpm's go up & down like I'm moving the accelerator a little bit. The only way I could stop it was to hit the pedal. Then the truck dies at a stop sign, so I start it back up (takes a few seconds to start). Drive of with limited power/hard to get it over 40 mph. So I posted before about this as it's happen a few times: http://turbodieselregister.com/forums/showthread.php?t=175309

So I figured I should get this throttle cable delt with first, maybe its the cause of part of this. So the Dealer calls me and says I need all this stuff because they can't keep it running. Here's the list: Liftpump $409, Fuel lines $265, Fuel heater ***'y $162, Fuel Filter $85, Valve cover gaskets/ adj valves $260, Adjust injection pump $135.

They said my fuel lines are leaking and my lift pump has a broken spring also the valves are loud. So I took it home (yeah I drove it about a half hour drive) and looked at it, noticed when I shut it off it was leaking. Well it was leaking from the banjo fitting on top of the fuel filter so I tighten that. I thought it was funny they said I need an $85 fuel filter, I just put a new one on maybe 70 miles ago!!

So if my lift pump is bad could I drive for half an hour?!! Can't I just fix the spring in it?

 

[KevinH]

i've yet to see a lift pump die, don't waste your money on one. almost every time it is a small leak in the supply lines and you won't see any fuel leaking from it. i would try changing the overflow valve for $50 before i would spend any money on that crap. if your lines are leaking they will sound like a helicopter( a real loud sputter), fuel heater LOL!!!, i wouldn't let a dealer even touch that injection pump. try increasing wour idle a little bit it should idle right around 850 rpm

 

[dpuckett]

Sounds like they were trying to milk you. Get it so it runs, then make them fix the recalls. Then burn rubber out of there. Why cant you get the parts for the recalls and install them yourself? THen you wouldnt have incompetent boobs trying their best to mess up a good thing.



Daniel

 

[Joe G.]

Wedge,



It could be something pretty simple to fix. Keep it away from those guys until you figure out what it is. I have written a small article about the fuel supply system. How it works and how to fix it. If you would like a copy e-mail me at -- email address removed -- . That should help a lot in figureing out what is wrong.

 

[Wedge]

Thanks guys!! I got the recalls done already, the dealer did them with only one complaint: "It died 6 or 7 times trying to get it to the mechanics bay". That's when they asked to do diagnostics on it.

I've already got new fuel line from Larry B's and I'll be ordering some gauges soon. I'm just about to leave work to check out the fuel system a little closer.

 

[bdcraig]

Friend of mine was puting a new transmission in a truck owned by a local doctor I noticed the injection pump was new and he said the dealership put a new pump on the truck when it was just out of time. They saw him coming a mile away. That is why I like doing my own service work or watch the person do the work on my truck so I know I don't get screwed.

 

[Wedge]

Got everything out, the lift pump looks new!!! The return line didn't look great though so I ordered new steel input lines and gaskets for the strainer and lift pump.



Does any one use stainless lines for replacing the braided lines, rubber hose and steel lines between the tank and strainer also the return line (my steel lines have all these short piecesconnected to make one). I would like to put in stainless lines with rubber hose to make all connections.

 

[JGK]

IF you need a new lift pump, go to Cummins. Also, try Kenworth or one of the other big rig shops. They often can get Cummins parts even for our trucks for cheaper than Cummins. A new lift pump for a 12-valve is about $150 give or take, as I remember.



-Jay

 

[JWaters]

I have seen 7 lift pumps go bad!

 

[Wedge]

I have seen 7 lift pumps go bad!

Well after putting in new fuel line and throwing away the pre heater I still have problems. Here's what happend. I ended up ordering parts (after calling around to a few places) from madison truck, they're a cummins/mack dealer. So I got 2 gaskets for the liftpump/ strainer assy and the right angle hose that connects them. I also figured I better get the feed line that goes into the strainer, mine you couldn't get tight anymore... can anyone say airleak!!! Well I didn't bother to ask for prices over the phone because I thought they'd be cheap insurance. I was wrong, very wrong! The feed line, which has a fitting on one end and a flared end for a hose on the other cost $81!!! The hose was $20, that's not so bad compared to the fuel line. So I'm trying to return the fuel line right now but I'm getting the run around. Well anyway I just bought a right angle barbed fitting so I could run 3/8 fuel hose from the strainer down to the tank. Then I replaced the fuel hose and line for the return line. One thing I couldn't do is replace either of these all the way to the tank because It was full. So when I got done I took it for a drive and everything seemed OK (better then when i bought it) for maybe 10 blocks then I decided I could take it on the highway. I pulled up to the highway stop sign and it started idling funny, then I hear a ticking sound. So I backed it up and drove to my shop. I haven't had time to look at it since, but now all my gauges came in the mail and i'm ready to install them starting with fuel pressure but I don't know where a good spot to tap in to the fuel system at. Oh and I bought Isspro fuel, egt and trans temp. I already have a mopar performance boost gauge from an old project.



Damn! What's ticking???

 

[Joe G.]

The tick may be coming from your lift pump. Take it apart. If the springs are ok, nothing is scuffed up, and the three check valves are ok then it's good. If you have a broken spring then you will need a new lift pump.



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The best place to install the fuel pressure line is the banjo fitting where the fuel line from the output of the fuel filter attaches to the injection pump. Be very clean on this job. Remove the banjo fitting. Drill it from the inside so that the way it is made will guide the drill bit. Then tap it to 1/8" NPT. I use a needle valve open just far enough so the gauge barely works. That dampens the pressure spikes. If you are using an electronic pressure gauge then us a gease gun hose from the needle valve to the sending unit. This allows you to mount the sending unit someplace other than the engine to protect it from engine vibration.



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[Wedge]

The tick may be coming from your lift pump. Take it apart. If the springs are ok, nothing is scuffed up, and the three check valves are ok then it's good. If you have a broken spring then you will need a new lift pump.



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I had it apart when I was working on the fuel lines. It only had two springs in it. Looks like the diagram shows three. I disassembled the whole thing except for the piston and the "A" valve. It looked pretty good in there, the piston was shiney on the sides... is that bad?

I need to check my pump timing and my KDP still.

 

[Wedge]

If my lift pump is bad could I use an electric pump like a holley red pump?

 

[Joe G.]

Shiny is ok. Scuffed up is not. There are three springs. One is in the push button. The other two are together. The smaller inside the larger. The larger spring is what moves the fuel. The piston rod does not move fuel. It compresses the large spring. The small spring inside the large spring keeps check valve A in place.



You can use any pump you want. However, the stock mechanical pump is the most reliable. It also increases fuel flow as RPM increases. The electrics don't do that.