2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Ball Joint Replacement

[LandShark]

There are many threads on this subject but I wanted to document my experience. This last weekend I replaced the right ball joints on my 1995 4x4 2500 with 178,000 miles. The lower ball joint had about 1/16" play in it. The hub was removed once prior in 1997 at about 38,000 miles to replace the axle u-joint. At that time the Dodge mechanic had no problem removing the hub. I also had no problem removing the hub; it just slid out with gentle pushing.



One of the bigger problems I had was getting the first hub bolt out. I broke a 3/8" extension (SK), a 3/8" drive 12 point 14mm socket split (Craftsman), and bent a Craftsman 3/8" socket drive. The lesson here is to use 1/2 drive sockets for this.



I had a tough time getting the ball joints out even with a puller. I found that the pullers sold are not quite big enough for the lower ball joint. The upper joint was a bit of a problem until I decided to try to loosen the split bushing that appeared to be holding the ball joint tight. I'll try to display a picture of the bushing. I've never seen it mentioned in the TDR.



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The photo shows the bushing most of the way out.





I did buy a 1 11/16" socket ($10) for the axle bolt, and a 1 5/16" socket for the ball joint bolts ($8). These I bought from a local auto parts place. NAPA also had them for about 3 times what I paid!



The ball joints I bought were Spicer RedLine from Rockauto.com. Both joints were a total of about $31, including about $10 for shipping. They have grease zerks. You can find other joints for about 5 times that much if you are inclined to pay for the hype.



I picked up a 14mm x 1. 50 x 3" bolt and cut off the head to use as a lineup stud when putting the hub back on. Makes it a bit easier when the dust shield is held in place. Also picked up a 3' long 1" heavy wall pipe to use as a cheater bar.



Total time for me was about 5 hours. The bad lower joint had only a tiny bit of grease remaining and was getting rusty inside. The tight upper ball joint was also replaced after I discovered a fair amount of rust in it and no grease.



There are a few pictures of the procedure in my gallery.

 

[LandShark]

More Pictures

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The Knuckle with hub bearing removed. Note that the contact area for the bearing is only about 5/8" thick.



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Two of the 4 12pt hub bolts. Also note the tone ring and the ABS sensor.



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The axle pulled out a inch or so.

 

[ASimpson]

What Are Those Gears For On That Outer Axle I Have Had Mine Out And They Do Not Have The Teeth On Them Like That One Does.

 

[LandShark]

That's the tone ring for the ABS. In the second picture you can see the sensor up next to the tone ring. Maybe later models do the ABS a different way?

 

[n7gxz]

Later models have the tone ring built into the hub/bearing assembly.



Kevin

 

[ASimpson]

Mine Doesn't Have Either But It Also Does Not Have The Unit Under The Hood Like My Dads Truck Does Either. I Dont Have Any Electrical Wires Going To My Front Axle.

 

[LandShark]

Thought I would throw in a few random notes from my ball joint project:



Starting a week prior to the job, spray your favorite penetrating oil on all fasteners your can reach.



Put the truck in 4x4 prior to starting.



Drain a quart or more of lube from the differential and keep the side you are working on elevated. This keeps the lube from leaking into the axle tube when you pull the axle.



Tools needed: 1 11/16" socket for axle nut, 1 1/8" socket for upper ball joint (my replacement had a 1 5/16" nut), 1 5/16" socket for lower ball joint, 14mm 12 point 1/2" drive (I split a quality 3/8" drive socket) for hub bolts, 3/8" hex-allen drive for brake cap bolts, 8mm or 5/16" socket for ABS sensor.



If you are going to pound on the hub bolts, replace them with sacrificial bolts. Bolt size is 14mm x 1. 50 x 3" or longer. Take one or two of the sacrificial bolts and cut the heads off and cut a small slot in the end for a screw driver and use them for lining up the hub and to hold the dust shields in place when installing the hub.



Torque list:



Lower ball joint - tighten to 35' pounds, then tighten upper to 70' pounds plus whatever to get to the next cotter pin slot, then tighten the lower to 140 - 160' pounds.



Hub bearing bolts - 125' pounds

Axle nut - 175' pounds + to next cotter pin slot.

Brake cap bolts - 38' pounds

Sensor bolts - 190 - 250" pounds (this seemed like to much, so I went with less)

Steering tie rod end - 65' pounds

 

[JFaughn]

Something I made up yrs. ago , was taking one of the cupped washers that are used with mounting the rubber bushings from shocks [ just the right size to fit into the axial housing ] and welding onto the end of a 4 ft. piece of bar/pipe , use this to scrape out all of the stuff/dirt that gathers in the axial housing , or you will be pushing that into the diff. when you put the axial back in .

 

[bmoeller]

Mine Doesn't Have Either But It Also Does Not Have The Unit Under The Hood Like My Dads Truck Does Either. I Dont Have Any Electrical Wires Going To My Front Axle.

Not all trucks have 4 wheel ABS. Mine doesn't. Rear only.

 

[bmoeller]

14mm 12 point 1/2" drive (I split a quality 3/8" drive socket) for hub bolts

I no longer consider Crapsman "quality" anymore. Same goes for Briggs and Stratton engines. I think they live off their name anymore. Not what they used to be.

 

[LandShark]

I no longer consider Crapsman "quality" anymore. Same goes for Briggs and Stratton engines. I think they live off their name anymore. Not what they used to be.

You may have something there. I also don't think that Craftsman quality is what it used to be, however, most of my Craftsman tools are over 35 years old. The nice thing is that you can walk into any Sears store and exchange broken tools, no questions asked.

 

[Batphreak]

The ball joints I bought were Spicer RedLine from Rockauto.com. Both joints were a total of about $31, including about $10 for shipping. They have grease zerks. You can find other joints for about 5 times that much if you are inclined to pay for the hype.

Where on Rockauto did you find those ball joints? I'm getting close to doing all 4 on my truck and all I can find on Rock is the Moog ones for $30-$40 each, haven't found any place with any different price either. When doing the joints is it easy to go ahead and replace the u-joints and axle seals, while the hub is off anyway? The pics and such here look very helpful, plus the tool list. Are these things easier if I find someone with a press in their shop, or should I just borrow a ball-joint kit?

 

[LandShark]

Batphreak: The Rockauto listings for my 95 are different than for your 98. I have no idea if the joints are actually different. I don't thinks so, from lookinking at the listings. The higher end ball joints are the same part number. Maybe they figure that you have a newer truck and can afford to pay more???



U-Joints should be checked and if any play go ahead and replace. How many miles on truck? My OEM's were replaced at 38,000 miles and the replacements are still tight at 175,000 miles. In any case the u-joints are easy to do once the axles are pulled; 80% of the job is getting to them.



Axle seals are a different story. From what I had read, If they aren't leaking, leave them alone. They are a major job to replace (they are way up inside the axle tube and you need special tools). Remove some of the fluid and keep the end you are working on elevated to keep oil from going over the seal and into the axle tube where it will dribble onto your wheels and brakes.

Also be carefull when reinserting the axle into the seal to keep from damaging the seal.



As far as getting a shop to do the press work; it's a good idea. I bent my ball joint press getting the lower joint off. I was able to do the job, however. You will find that most of the ball joint presses available say they will work on all ball joints, but in fact, they are to small to do the lower Dodge ball joint and you will need to improvise a bit to get it to work.

 

[Batphreak]

Wow, I even looked at a '97 truck and it had the better priced Spicer ones listed, just not for my '98. My truck has 185k on the clock, I'm sure the lowers were done at one point, they're still tight, the uppers have 0. 010" or so of play (eyeball measurement). Anyway, I know my truck and the '97 are Dana 60 fronts, I think I'm just going to try the spicer units. Sounds like it is a good idea to do the u-joints, I don't think mine have been done and might as well do it while its apart, I didn't realize the seals were back by the carrier, guess I'll just pray.



Next question, when putting this all back together is there an adjustment that needs to be done with the split sleeve on the top ball joints? I've heard on the older (early 80's) Dana 60s there is, not sure if it applies on these units. Does anyone have a link to more instructions? The pics and stuff here are great LandShark, just looking for as much information as I can find.

 

[Batphreak]

All right, the plot thickens on these ball joints from Rockauto. Like you said, the Moog units are the same part number even for a '97 and a '98. The Spicer units are not listed for a '98. I e-mailed Rockauto about it, they said Spicer doesn't claim their joints are good for '98 specs. I thought these trucks have the same Dana 60 front axle, shouldn't the ball joints be the same? Anyone out there put the supposed '97 ball joints in a '98 or later, or does anyone have more info about the front axles on these things?

 

[JFaughn]

Not sure because I have not worked on the diff. yrs. , but I read something about the knuckles changing , same as used Fords , removable disk , not sure of all the details , but it was about the 98 yr.

 

[LandShark]

Batphreak: There is no adjustment involved with the ball joint replacement (at least on my 1995 Dana 60). The slpit sleeve is marked 0 degrees so maybe it's possible to change the camber/castor with a different sleeve.



I notice that Dana 44 ball joints are available with different degrees of camber/castor. Maybe that's what you are thinking about.

 

[JFaughn]

There is a adjustment sleeve , for the Dana 60 axial 2500 /3500 , only one option , on the Dana 44 lots of options .