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Anatomy of a Frantz toilet paper bypass oil filter

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My swivel fitting also leaks a little, or should I say sweats oil. All I do is wipe it down once or week and that has been the extent of it.

Some of that "Sweating" is caused by the fact the return oil is being returned too close to the top of the valve cover, and the pressures within the engine will make the oil "Sweat" around the cap. This can be eliminated if you "Extend the return on the fitting" by screwing a fitting on it. I use a

1/8"X1/4" BUSHING on the end of the swivel fitting.



I have done this on several trucks, and it seems to work.



Wayne

amsoilman
 
Some of that "Sweating" is caused by the fact the return oil is being returned too close to the top of the valve cover, and the pressures within the engine will make the oil "Sweat" around the cap. This can be eliminated if you "Extend the return on the fitting" by screwing a fitting on it. I use a

1/8"X1/4" BUSHING on the end of the swivel fitting.



I have done this on several trucks, and it seems to work.



Wayne

amsoilman



YUP, or like this:



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While you guys are working out the extension details, I'll add another oil analysis. .

This one is with "All New Stuff". That is fresh Delo 400, oem & frantz filters run about 5300 miles with the needle valve inline and slowed down oil flow through the frantz. No make up oil, no filter maintenance.

2 lessons learned. One is the slowed down flow definitely kept the oil visibly cleaner past 3000 miles as is shown in the Gulf Coast link just below. The other lesson is at 5300 miles, the frantz element is restricted to the point to where when I went to open my sample valve/spigot, there was almost NO flow through the frantz!! I needed to open the needle valve about 1/8 turn to get some flow moving again. With that in mind, the attached oil analysis is probably tainted a bit due to just re-activating a very low flowing and full TP element and probably released some particles into the sample since the oil was visibly black as compared to 2000 miles earlier when it was still "nicely" transparent.

The link to pics before when the frantz was still flowing:
https://www.turbodieselregister.com...f-coast-bypass-filter-guts-3.html#post1882247

From now on, I'll be changing the frantz element at about 2500-3k mile intervals, and keeping flow to a minimum (significantly less than with just a 1/16 restriction orifice inline).

Below is the sample taken just after opening the needle valve to restore some flow through the frantz at 5300 miles. IMO all is good, except still a little concerned about the elevated silicone level. I had previously summized it was due to several injector change-outs and used some silicone on the air horn bolts, this sample is with all new oil. The only other thing that had changed was I went to the nanofiber 4510 installed BHAF style. I still doubt that it's letting dirt through due to no unusual wear metals showing. Since the sample, I have changed to Amsoil 15/40 HD synthetic oil and an Amsoil nanofiber drop-in air filter utilizing a well-sealed stock airbox with oem snorkel and PSM cowl hole addition (which is working out well so far).

Here's a link to a higher res pic of the sample below:
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Has anyone tried Fleetguard's new Venturi Combo bypass filter? If so do you have some real figures on it? It is apparently much improved over their previous design. This new design apparently uses a nozzle to create the venturi effect and create a low pressure zone which allows for better bypass filtering. It's a combo filter, has the full flow filter above it and the bypass deal in the bottom half of the can.
 



That would be the ticket for me. I don't have the time to add a piece of equipment to the truck, so killing 2 birds with one oil change would definitely be up my alley.

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Can you round me up a package deal and price Geno's? I'll order them today and be the guinea pig with multiple doil analysis' to follow. I have 15K mile Rotella synthetic waiting for an oil change. I'll pull an oil sample as is, change the filter at the same time, put 1000 miles on the new filter and used oil, and then send in a second sample. This should be fun.



Sean
 
Lorenz, I'm not sure if you were talking to me or someone else about rounding up a price and package? I can give you the email of a fleetguard rep that can help tell you what filter will fit your engine.
 
Lorenz, I'm not sure if you were talking to me or someone else about rounding up a price and package? I can give you the email of a fleetguard rep that can help tell you what filter will fit your engine.



I was hoping Geno's Garage could set up the package deal like they did with the standard filters pictured above.



But, if you have a fleetguard rep's name and # post it up. I'll get the product from him if it's quicker.
 
Ahh I see, yeah I'm sorry I really don't know much about it other than the brochures I read. I inquired about these filters for our trucks and was told to send my engine serial number to this person and they would tell me exactly what one to use. The contact is Judy Stewart and the email is -- email address removed --
 
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judy@cummins is very quick on the email. 1hr quick.

They don't make the Venturi Combo for our trucks. Standard, Cellulose Media, and the upgraded, Stratapore Media. The Venturi combo also has the Stratapore Media.

Geno's has tried getting the Venturi Combo in, but "it never went anywere". We now see why, Cummins doesn't make it for our trucks...
 
Sean,



We tried again to get the Venturi but still no luck. Cummins still says the Stratapore is the best filter for our applications. Thanks for getting me to look again though. Who know's maybe one day.

Brandon
 
I used Frantz filters for a few years many years a go until I had the bad experience of them canalling (the oil finding its way through the paper without filtering) so I stopped using it. .
 
I used Frantz filters for a few years many years a go until I had the bad experience of them canalling (the oil finding its way through the paper without filtering) so I stopped using it. .



That's usually caused by use of poor quality TP, and/or poor (too loose) installation into the canister. Another, less common cause, is too large a oil restrictor that allow more flow than the setup is designed for - like most bypass setups, SLOOooooow flow to allow maximum filtration is the primary goal.
 
That's usually caused by use of poor quality TP, and/or poor (too loose) installation into the canister. Another, less common cause, is too large a oil restrictor that allow more flow than the setup is designed for - like most bypass setups, SLOOooooow flow to allow maximum filtration is the primary goal.





It can also be caused by the element being too tight in the canister... as happened to me with my GCF.
 
It can also be caused by the element being too tight in the canister... as happened to me with my GCF.



That's usually pretty hard to do with good quality, tightly wound rolls - but yeah, looser wound rolls, like paper towel rolls, CAN distort and buckle/fold in the layers, and cause problems, especially if there's no decent center post down the middle of the roll to stabilize it.



Another issue that can cause TP displacement, is too much water in the lube, such as leakage from poor gaskets or cracked heads/blocks, or too many short range driving trips and incomplete engine warm up that cause moisture buildup in the crankcase - those will cause the TP to eventually distort. But then, water removal by use of these filters is a GOOD thing, as long as decent change intervals are used.



But of course, you can have all the same issues with conventional filters as well - poor quality and installation - and water in lube - you just see it lots easier with something like the Frantz and similar elements.
 
Gary, has anyone come up yet and posted real world numbers from using one of those FS2500 setups? Their website looks good, but as far as actual numbers I dunno. Do you?
 
Gary, has anyone come up yet and posted real world numbers from using one of those FS2500 setups? Their website looks good, but as far as actual numbers I dunno. Do you?





I'm not Gary, but I have never seen a UOA from a FS2500 on any of the forums I cruise...
 
I'm not Gary, but I have never seen a UOA from a FS2500 on any of the forums I cruise...



I haven't been spending much time over on the "bobistheoilguy.com" site, but that would probably be the best place to see what the FS2500 is doing - a few earlier results I saw were OK, but certainly not terrific - not nearly as spectacular in real life installations as their site displays...



Things may have changed by now.
 
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