i want to learn to weld...

[THenningsen]

although they are more money... they sure save on space compared to a band saw. My plan is to find one used if I can. Anything I need to watch out for? I'm not ruling out the band saw route, just want to get an education on plasma cutters.

 

[DValentine]

A plasma cutter is nice, if you are working with aluminum or stainless steel. I use a torch for a lot of things, tubing, pipe, plate. I can also heat things up with a torch, which you can't with a plasma machine. The band saw Greg was talking about is very handy. It is portable and does not take up much space and you can cut different metals. You can miter with it... it just takes a little practice to follow soapstone lines. I have used them a lot.
If I remember correctly... the 375 will cut 3/8 plate? That is a nice size... . but if you asked me if I had to choose one cutting tool... . it would be an oxy/act torch.

Regards,

Dave

 

[Coalsmoke]

Plasma cutters, take 25% off their rated capacity and then you'll have their realistic capacity. I agree, a chop saw, porta-band and set of torches si much more versatile. Porta-bands are nice too as its fast to take the saw to the work than the work to the saw.

 

[GHarman]

Plasma Cutters

THenningsen, I really like plasma cutters for fine work and distortion control. They leave a very narrow Heat Affected Zone at the cut. You can cut practically anything with them, although Brass is not a good candidate in my experience, for some reason that I have not identified. You can cut with compressed air ( you must use an air drier or you will go through tips and orifices very fast and very expensive!! You can also used bottled air (specified Dry), nitrogen or argon (Very expensive, clean cuts on aluminum). They are not as versitile as an oxy-fuel torch but they definitely have their place in a shop. I want one also!!! They work great on a pipe beveling machine. GregH



PS. I have used a similar setup with Oxy-Acetylene and Plasma. Here is a link;



Chain-Type Pipe Machine

 

[GHarman]

Plasma Cutting continued

Remember, when you cut angles like a bevel on a pipe, you may have a given wall thickness of . 375 but your angle of the bevel creates an effective wall thickness for the cut of 1/2" or better, depending on the angle. That being said, the machine must have the capability of cutting thicker material. The smallest Plasma cutter I have used was an older (to you) Thermal Dynamics PAC-50. It would "JUST" cut a 37. 5* bevel on schedule 40 6" pipe. Make sure you oversize your unit. I do like Thermal Dynamics plasma cutters, but any of the others will work fine. The new stuff is alot lighter and more compact. We had a 500A (output) unit in a fab shop in 1982 that was the size of a refrigerator!!! The torch was 30" long. What a monster. When it was fired up, you better have yer earprotection on if you were within 50' of the thing. Always wear a hood and a respirator. Vaporized metal is not something you want to breath. Or cut into a water table or under water on sheet material! Fresh clean air for you to breath is the key!!! Your health is the most important. If you complete a job and it is a worthy of praise and in the process you loose your health, it was not worth the effort!!! You are your most important precision tool!!!Oo. GregH

 

[Coalsmoke]

Greg, you can use a plasma cutter with the nozzle submerged? I thought only laser could benefit from submerged profile cutting. Learn something new everyday

 

[DJW]

GHarman, great post, of the pipe beveler, years ago in New Zealand I saw a few pipe bevelers down to small pipe, it's said when arriving in New Zealand to set your watch back 25 years, don't believe it, seen stuff there 25 years ago have not reached here yet, (to my knowledge) or other countries I've visited. On the counter of a welding supply store there were other aids for general welding shops which I have not seen here. They were expensive as they were of precision quality, degree markings machined or etched rather than stamped etc. , and at that time I had no use for them. Air-Arc and Plasma, God's Gift to a Dedicated Weldor, pretty well answers all of their Prays, what used to be a foundation for a good Ulcer, (or two) now makes the same problem a joy, makes one feel satisfied to work the rest of the day for free. When I bought my Plasma set up for air, I put 5 extra air driers in the line, the general use purpose at $20 each bought five just $100, (are you serious about work or just playing?) Yes the tips are expensive, the person I asked about consumables, (fore warned- fore armed) cautioned of the need for dry air. I used it primary for cutting coupons out of angle as I did not have an Ironworker at the time, so I bought a profile machine with the Plasma set up all ready to go. I was thinking of the future as one could also use it to cut flat shapes out of Steel, Stainless and Aluminum the most popular metals in general, whereas if I had it set up for oxy-acy it would be limited to steel. Of the whole thing I set it up on castors for portability in the shop, plus threaded leveling rods, (do it once, do it right). (The Joys of Work will never End)

 

[GHarman]

Greg, you can use a plasma cutter with the nozzle submerged? I thought only laser could benefit from submerged profile cutting. Learn something new everyday

Coalsmoke, Yep, you can cut under water. A great method of distortion control and smoke control. An XYZ platform is normally used for this operation. However you can setup a straight line cutter with a little engineering.

A Straight line cutter (plasma torch on a track) over a trough filled with water with a draft drawn across the surface, exhausting outside the shop works great, also.



DJW, Here also, is a picture of the straight line cutters that use an electric drive on a straight track with a Oxy-fuel or Plasma torch.

Gas Welding - The Welders Warehouse- Welding

I have used similar equipment from other manufacturers. Thought you might like the UK source.



I would prefer those over a heavy shear! The benefit is that you take your cutter to the work as opposed to taking the work to the cutter. However, each has their place. Handling heavy plate is no longer in my bag of tricks. GregH

 

[JWelch]

I read yall talking about hood preferences a ways back. I like my pipeliner. Although I wouldn't mind having a Speedglass though. I have used those for what I call Bell Hole welding with GTAW.



I recently tried a Huntsman 2x4 solar auto dark. Could only use it for a couple of days befor it blinded me welding on some 8" with GTAW.

 

[GHarman]

I read yall talking about hood preferences a ways back. I like my pipeliner. Although I wouldn't mind having a Speedglass though. I have used those for what I call Bell Hole welding with GTAW.



I recently tried a Huntsman 2x4 solar auto dark. Could only use it for a couple of days befor it blinded me welding on some 8" with GTAW.

It may be that you do not have the ambient light control adjusted for your conditions, or possibly the correct shade adjustment? I have had to fiddle with mine and have started welding without turning the lens on a couple of times. WHOOPS!!! I used to work with a JWelch, originally from KentuckyOo. ? GregH

 

[JWelch]

This one didn't have any kind of adjustment. Shade 10 and it was a lite 10 at that. But the Speedglass I like because the guy I borrowed it from helped me set it up so that no matter what it was gauranteed to stay dark.



I am now using the Lincoln Electric brand glass lenses in shade 10. They are pretty close to the Cobalt Blu lense from back in the day. Thats what I am told at least. I like alot allows a real crisp view of the arc.



No, sorry never been to Kentucky. Lived my whole life in Tx.

 

[DJW]

THenningsen, the posts have given a lot of good advice, off hand I would say for a start receive expert advice and training, that would help prevent bad and or poor practices, easier not to pick those up than try to break them later. As GregH posted, only strike an arc in the weld seam, on critical work striking an arc anywhere else will cause it to be Ex-Rayed and a whole lot of problems at great cost. Make sure to wear Safety Glasses, learning to weld I firmly suggest Stick, the glasses will save you from suffering from Eye Arc Burn, (catching flashes) sort of Sunburn of the Eyes very painful. Buy a good pair of Expensive Welding Gloves, they will fit, give good feel for your hands, and being expensive you will value and take good care of them. For your Lungs and Health good ventilation at all times.

 

[DJW]

GHarman, thanks for the UK source, seems with today's money rate of exchange the price equals the American made ones, even years ago they were in the $1000 range in the USA. They are a very useful tool, depending on the length of steel to be V ed for welding, I used to place the steel edge to be V ed upright to the flame, that way one would not lose the cut as is prone to do if steel is placed flat, the edge is a smaller area to be heated, thus speed is also enhanced. I am a lazy type of person so will find the fastest, cheapest and most efficient way to do a job. I noted the packing and shipping cost for delivery in the UK, less than $10 per order. (what a bargain for heavy stuff)

 

[Headshot zod]

I've been perusing this thread every now and then. My IBEW hall is sending me (and 14 others) to welding class so that we can get certified to stick weld the lighting brackets for Giants Stadium. They said we could continue for more training after the first course and get some tig and mig in there. I was the first to ante up the cash (refunded if we pass) for the course. WooHoo. .

 

[GHarman]

I've been perusing this thread every now and then. My IBEW hall is sending me (and 14 others) to welding class so that we can get certified to stick weld the lighting brackets for Giants Stadium. They said we could continue for more training after the first course and get some tig and mig in there. I was the first to ante up the cash (refunded if we pass) for the course. WooHoo. .

Hey Bud, I was represented by IBEW-111 while working for PSCo of Colorado back in the 70's-early 80's. They were "the" Gas and Electric Utility, here. Got lots of SMAW and Oxy-Acetylene time on Hot Taps, Natural Gas transportation, Distribution, Utilization and maintainence (Pipelines). I learned alot in a very short period of time. When I left (1982), I was Lead Weldor at the Boulder Subdivision. Glad you are getting your OPPORTUNITY, learn as much as you can!! Have Fun! GregH

 

[Headshot zod]

I certainly shall... .



IBEW #164

 

[THenningsen]

here is another equipment question for you all... what about coldsaws? Saw one used on tv, what are the pros and cons for them. This was a Dake that bathed the metal in that milky looking liquid. Also, I currently have a auto darkening helment from Harbor Freight, obviously not the best out there. All I do right now is stick weld and saw the Miller mp-10 which is a passive lense. It can be upgraded to their autodarkening or digital lense later. They are $35 dollars. Whould this be a better (more protection) than my current one?

 

[JWelch]

If you are not experiencing any leaking. Arc flash coming through or around the edges of the lense then I wouldn't worry about it. Then I would not worry about changing just keep using it.

 

[GHarman]

Cold Saws

THenningsen, The "Cold Saws" I am familiar with are alot more cumbersome and take up alot of room compared to other methods. The milky white liquid is water based cutting fluid. This type of saw has its place, but are generally expensive and heavy. They use a low RPM circular blade, usually carbide tipped and have cutting depth limitations. For precision production work, they are great.



A #10 lens is the minimum I would consider for SMAW. I used a #9 while welding outside when I was younger. My eyes are alot more light sensitive as I aged. My Hornell Speedglas lens is presently set at #11 and is comfortable for me. You should try different shades of lens. Before I got this electronic lens, I used a Glass Goldcoat #10 with a 2. 5X Magnifier (Cheater) in a fiber "Huntsman" hood. Twice the weight of the Hornell! Got rid of the weight and the neck snapOo. . I still use the cheater:-laf. GregH

 

[THenningsen]

I guess the reason I ask, is that even being an auto darkening hood, seems like the fraction of a second it takes to darken still takes its toll on my eyes after a while. Thought a passive lense my get rid of this. Right now my hood is set on #11.

Greg- I know you mentioned the Milwaukee portable band saw. What about some of the hydraulic downfeed band saws. They seem to be in the $400-600 range. Particularly I looked at Jet. I guess I'm just looking for a general purpose tool to cut some tubing. Cost and space are definately the driving forces. If a portable band saw is the way to go, do I also need a table for it? If so, seems I'm getting into the price range of the hydraulic ones.