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particulate filter restriction (ash accumulation)

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Four Codes and now they are gone???

Run That Diesel On Water?????????

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After 148,500 miles I believe I have filled up my particulate filter. Nothing is showing on the overhead, (yet) but I have the p 242f code. I also believe my particulate filter must be cracked because in the last two days the exhaust pipe has gotten black with soot for the first time. Can anyone tell me why I would get that code and nothing on the overhead. The truck is running fine, just went around 450 miles today and no problems. I'm wondering what to expect now. If it is cracked, it should run without any problems I hope. Anyone have any ideas? I also have a p 0516 code, battery temperature sensor circuit low, don't believe that has anything to do with the dpf.
 
Unless you had one of the new flashes that updated the PCM, cluster and overhead, the display may not show it. The newest flashes included changes to give the driver more information about the system.

Also was the CEL on or did you just check for codes? If you just checked and the code was stored, it might have started to get full, and then regenerated to burn off the soot. If the CEL is on, the DPF is probably full and would require replacement. Also, any soot in the tail pipe indicates a failed DPF, so either way it is probably time to replace it.
 
This would be a good time to drill holes in the DPF and run it like that. You are your own warranty station anyway and it is not working properly, I say time to experiment. BTW has your MPG improved?



If you remove it then you are breaking the law but if its not working when inspected then all it is, is a fixit ticket.
 
If the DPF is part of the emissions controls than why do we only have a 36000 mile warranty with it? Emission controls should be warrantied for 70,000- 100,000 at least.



I do not think removing the dpf is an illegal act, its more of a warranty-void act.



Curious if his mileage went up?



Stay safe guys
 
If the DPF is part of the emissions controls than why do we only have a 36000 mile warranty with it? Emission controls should be warrantied for 70,000- 100,000 at least.



I do not think removing the dpf is an illegal act, its more of a warranty-void act.



Curious if his mileage went up?



Stay safe guys





Point to ponder: It may not be illegal to remove until 2010, since it is 2010 compliant. It is a extra goodie until then.
 
This truck is my livelihood. I would hate to experiment and get stuck somewhere. I would be glad to take it off, except I don't know of anyone that has done that and had the truck run right afterwards. If these dpf cost as much as I've heard, it is going to be bad for us commercial guys that run a lot of miles. You shouldn't have to have this kind of expense after 1 1/2 years and approximately 150k miles.
 
Point to ponder: It may not be illegal to remove until 2010, since it is 2010 compliant. It is a extra goodie until then.
It was manufactured with it on it, therefore it would be illegal and the C&C is not 2010 compliant only the regular pickups. The DPF's are required to meet the 07 standards, even the big rigs have them for 07.



If the DPF is part of the emissions controls than why do we only have a 36000 mile warranty with it? Emission controls should be warrantied for 70,000- 100,000 at least.



I do not think removing the dpf is an illegal act, its more of a warranty-void act.



Curious if his mileage went up?



Stay safe guys
EB,s mileage is well over 100,000. I feel for him, for I will be in the same boat sooner or later with my C&C. I will get a DPF delete kit but not remove it, I will drill holes through it and then add the DPF delete program. That way when California, I'm sorry Peoples Republic Of California, starts smog testing Diesels at the Scales during the routine inspections or a CHP pulls me over because I have smoke coming from my exhaust, at least I won't have a heavy fine, just a fixit ticket. EB I don't think it will hurt the engine, it will just throw codes. The only way the computer knows is with the pressure sensors, as the filter clogs the pressure difference increases which will trigger a regen. If the pressure is lower than the set pressure difference when it is clean, it will throw codes to let you know there is a problem with it. I would run it as long as I could until forced into it. As time goes by and the feds (Peoples Republic of the United States of America) will wise up and there will be a program to shut it down until codes are corrected on the newer vehicles and probably require us to have it down loaded on our older models.
 
This truck is my livelihood. I would hate to experiment and get stuck somewhere. I would be glad to take it off, except I don't know of anyone that has done that and had the truck run right afterwards. If these dpf cost as much as I've heard, it is going to be bad for us commercial guys that run a lot of miles. You shouldn't have to have this kind of expense after 1 1/2 years and approximately 150k miles.





WOW! 150,000 miles - have you had any soot problems with the turbo? Any other problems to speak of?
 
WOW! 150,000 miles - have you had any soot problems with the turbo? Any other problems to speak of?



I've had no problems at all with the turbo, blew a head gasket when the egr cooler developed a leak or maybe it was the other way around, developed a leak in the egr cooler when the head gasket blew. Don't know which came first, but had to replace both. That happened around 132k.



Cattletrkr:



I couldn't make any sense out of those drawings on that other site. If you can figure it out let me know.
 
Cattletrkr:

I couldn't make any sense out of those drawings on that other site. If you can figure it out let me know.
I haven't done it to mine yet, but I think I've got it figured out. Take one of the blue wires from one of the sensors and that will be your hot line. Hook that one up to where it's supposed to go on the potentiometer. Run a single line from the outlet of the pot. and hook that one up to all three of the brown wires going to the sensors. It'll take some trial and error to get the pot. set correctly, but once it's set, it will fool the computer into thinking the DPF is always empty/clean and it will never go into regen.

Only step left is to make a replacement pipe or muffler to go in place of the DPF. It sounds a little complicated at first, but I've been reading up on it for a couple weeks and thinking aobut it a lot. I don't think I'm too far off on my description. If anybody else has a better way to describe it, please feel free to set me straight.
 
I haven't done it to mine yet, but I think I've got it figured out. Take one of the blue wires from one of the sensors and that will be your hot line. Hook that one up to where it's supposed to go on the potentiometer. Run a single line from the outlet of the pot. and hook that one up to all three of the brown wires going to the sensors. It'll take some trial and error to get the pot. set correctly, but once it's set, it will fool the computer into thinking the DPF is always empty/clean and it will never go into regen.



Only step left is to make a replacement pipe or muffler to go in place of the DPF. It sounds a little complicated at first, but I've been reading up on it for a couple weeks and thinking aobut it a lot. I don't think I'm too far off on my description. If anybody else has a better way to describe it, please feel free to set me straight.



Why not just buy a DPF delete from H&S or BADP?
 
EB,



Simply unscrew the soot plug on the bottom of the DPF filter and drain it down the interstate. Nobody will ever know.
 
EB

I'm in the business of selling parts to the Class 8 guys... There was a huge surge of buyers before the new systems went into effect and the word on the street was there would be a huge slow down in new truck sales afterwards... .

This has all come to pass..... remember on those trucks the up charge is close to $10K and everyone is afraid of the technology... .

I went to a school on the cleaning and care of these filters on Class 8's, and there is a procedure to remove clean and flush...

On those trucks the DPF is removed and the cartridge is removed from the assemble. . its is placed in an oven and heated to something like 800 F* and back flushed with low pressure, high volume air... so the thought is that the soot is turned to ash and later sort of shaken and blown out backwards and the DPF is returned to service.....

When my 5500 gets there (where your at) were going to follow the suggestions from the class and put it back into service... .
 
Why not just buy a DPF delete from H&S or BADP?
Because the C+C's are different than the regular pickups. Any of the delete kits available are not for the C+C's. An $8 potentiometer and $15 worth of pipe is a lot cheaper than a kit from wherever.

EDIT: ... and wiring in a pot. and replacing 4' of pipe is easier too. :)

EDIT 2: Ok, just went t H+S's website. It seems that the "Stge 1" kit works for the C+C's. $550 for a piece of pipe and a couple sensor plugs is absurd. However it beats the heck outta replacing the DPF with new or trying to fab my own setup. Time to do some thinkin'.
 
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EB



I'm in the business of selling parts to the Class 8 guys... There was a huge surge of buyers before the new systems went into effect and the word on the street was there would be a huge slow down in new truck sales afterwards... .



This has all come to pass..... remember on those trucks the up charge is close to $10K and everyone is afraid of the technology... .



I went to a school on the cleaning and care of these filters on Class 8's, and there is a procedure to remove clean and flush...



On those trucks the DPF is removed and the cartridge is removed from the assemble. . its is placed in an oven and heated to something like 800 F* and back flushed with low pressure, high volume air... so the thought is that the soot is turned to ash and later sort of shaken and blown out backwards and the DPF is returned to service.....



When my 5500 gets there (where your at) were going to follow the suggestions from the class and put it back into service... .



Do the Class 8 trucks go into a regeneration mode?

I thought the Dodge pickups (w/ the Cummins 6. 7) had a very different system. Ours doesn't hold a lot of the NOx or particulate in the traps compared to a Class 8 truck. It holds some small amount, which is then reacted and turned into ash by adding fuel/heating.

Does the substrate of the DPF (on the Dodge and the Class 8 trucks) get consumed or degraded? Or is it just ash build-up that would require maintenance on the Dodge at 150K miles?

Also, EB said his was cracked.
 
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