How did you install your EGT probe

[Bernie]

I'm getting ready to install a Quadzilla Commander in my 03. The only item I am stressing over is the EGT probe. I want a pre turbo install, but I am worried about chips causing a problem with the turbo. From what I can tell my options are:

-Remove the manifold (time consuming)

-Install with the engine off, grease the bit and tap, vacuum and clean with a magnet.

-Install with the engine on idling, grease the bit and tap, vacuum and clean with a magnet.



I am leaning towards the engine idling procedure, so the manifold would blow out and chips that were not caught in the grease. Also, any chips that did not go out would be more likely to clear the turbo.



How did you do your install, and why?

 

[NDornacher]

i have always done mine with the truck idling and never had any problems

i wouldn't do the grease it makes the chips heavy and less likely to blow away.

 

[SSalzer]

I did mine with the truck running (so did a friend) and never had a problem. You'd be suprised the force of the exhaust that blows out when you get through. I really don't think any metal would go in. Just watch your eyes!

 

[Geno's Garage]

We, at Geno's Garage, would suggest drilling, and tapping, with the engine off (cooler to work on). Also, we see no need to grease the bit. As you drill, tiny iron particles will fall away from the hole. As you punch through, a very tiny particle, or particles, may find their way into the interior of the manifold. Since the turbo doesn't spool-up until around 1500 RPM, and the start idle is around 750 RPM, tiny particles in the manifold will blow, harmlessly, by the turbo. But, since we have found that not all truck owners are comfortable with a procedure that does not address any material that may be in the manifold, we suggest using small, mechanic's magnet to retrieve any shavings. We hope this helps.

 

[Yo Hoot]

I drill and tap with the engine running using the "Hoot" method



I put together this article way back when I owned a Duramax but you can use the info to do any truck. Just be careful you don't try and drill in the middle of the exhaust manifold where the four runners come together. There is a web in the middle.



DieselManor has some good pics here

 

[p-Bar]

Hoot and P-bar method have someone hold a rag over the exhaust tip to create more back pressure.

 

[JCasper]

I drilled, tapped, installed my probe and started the truck.



Let it idle for a second and called it good.

 

[GCroyle]

I did it a bit different on the 3 installations I have done. On the 2 HPCR's, I made some room to work and then disconnected the exhaust elbow at the band clamps, removed the elbow loosened the nuts and then just dropped the turbo down a bit, leaving it on the last thread or so of the studs. Then I inserted a piece of card stock over the turbo inlet, drilled, cleaned, tapped, cleaned and started putting it back together. Just a different way, but it looks like the experience says, don't worry too much about it, be careful.

 

[Linedog]

I did it with truck running doesn't get to hot
just watch out for the fillings coming out.
no problems 130k latter

 

[DeezelDood]

We, at Geno's Garage, would suggest drilling, and tapping, with the engine off (cooler to work on). Also, we see no need to grease the bit. As you drill, tiny iron particles will fall away from the hole. As you punch through, a very tiny particle, or particles, may find their way into the interior of the manifold. Since the turbo doesn't spool-up until around 1500 RPM, and the start idle is around 750 RPM, tiny particles in the manifold will blow, harmlessly, by the turbo. But, since we have found that not all truck owners are comfortable with a procedure that does not address any material that may be in the manifold, we suggest using small, mechanic's magnet to retrieve any shavings. We hope this helps.

I figure you see a lot of engine jobs and used your method (engine off) with no problems. Magnet gets 99. 99% of the shavings. Once the tip of the magnet hits the pile the shavings attach to each other like a chain. One potential problem with engine running, if you slip or tilt the drill and snap off the pilot bit it won't blow out, and it could take out a blade on the turbo.

 

[seafish]

I am about to do this for a Westach dual gauge that I have bought. I think that I would like to drill almost all the way through with the engine off, and then finish after starting the engine. Seems to me that MIGHT be the best of both worlds-- Plenty of time to drill with no distractions or heat, and then just finish up the hole and tap with some pressure to blow any chips out.



Soooo-- I have 3 questions;



1)Does anyone know the actual thickness of the manifold wall?



2)Does anyone have an accurate photo or description of what might be the BEST (ie--easiest/safest) place to drill the manifold??



It seems to me that I remember someone having a photo on a forum somewhere about this, but I have not been able to find it again.



3)If not using grease, then definitely use cutting oil with the tap, right??



TIA

 

[GCroyle]

Mine is an '05, I do not remember how thick it is, wasn't difficult. I used the Westach from Geno's I liked it.

 

[Yo Hoot]

It's less than 1/4" thick for sure. Looking at the picture above, again, be sure you don't try to drill in the center because there is an internal web there. Do like the picture. I put mine on the back side of the web.

 

[BHaden]

I drilled between #3 and #4 like the Genos suggestion and I used the grease on the drill method, engine off and cold. After drilling I used a small diameter bolt, I believe it was 4mm shank diameter, with about a 30 degree bend in the middle and a magnet on the head. The bent shank on the bolt allowed me to run it around in a circle about 2 inches in diameter down inside the manifold and get all the shavings

(99. 9%?). Even with the greased drill and tap a lot fell inside. I drilled the hole in 3 steps to final diameter and ran the magnetized bolt between each step.

It all worked great and took about 30 minutes and I was going slow and being REAL careful.

 

[JCastillo]

Taped the end of a shop-vac(on blow out mode) to the tip of the exhaust pipe. with the blower running, positive pressure is applied to the exhaust manifold through the turbo. As you drill, shavings are blown out (wear eye protection). Simple, cool to work with, no problems at all.

JC

 

[seafish]

It's less than 1/4" thick for sure. Looking at the picture above, again, be sure you don't try to drill in the center because there is an internal web there. Do like the picture. I put mine on the back side of the web.

Thanks!!!!! Knowing me, I would have tried drilling right in the center. :-laf

 

[seafish]

Taped the end of a shop-vac(on blow out mode) to the tip of the exhaust pipe. with the blower running, positive pressure is applied to the exhaust manifold through the turbo. As you drill, shavings are blown out (wear eye protection). Simple, cool to work with, no problems at all.



JC

JCastillo, that's a cool idea , but can't chips also be blown past an open valve into the engine??

 

[cerberusiam]

JCastillo, that's a cool idea , but can't chips also be blown past an open valve into the engine??

Thats why you do it with the engine running and a partial plug in the tail pipe.