2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Coolent smell from vents

[tntframing]

If I have a coolent smell from the vents, does this mean my heater core leaks? When the A/C is running I have a vapor coming from the vents, it smells like coolent and freon, also when I turn the A/C and fan off I still get the vapor (very little) but it then only smells like coolent. ??? Thanks TIM

 

[FourBarR]

Very likely heater core.

 

[GCroyle]

Quick fix.



I think my 97 has a bad core also, but to buy some time I installed some 5/8" caps on the lines at the firewall end of the pipes for the heater. These are actual bypass caps made for this task, found them at NAPA, probally common parts.



This allowed me to try to confirm core problem and buy some time, cause I might do the dash at the same time.

 

[San Felipe Bob]

Yep heater core

It's a good weekend job.

You will have to un hook the A/C lines and re charge the system when you put it back together.

Not a good hurry up job.

Best to have lots of patience.



SFB

 

[GCroyle]

Heater core + New Dash + AC Recharge all at once!



YUCK!

 

[WKruger]

If it isn't real bad, dump a couple tubes of solder seal in the coolant. Should keep it from getting worse until you can get it replaced.

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

It's a good weekend job.
You will have to un hook the A/C lines and re charge the system when you put it back together.
Not a good hurry up job.
Best to have lots of patience.

SFB

Actually it can be done without touching the AC system. Dig up Issue 46 and turn to Page 12, Joe Donnelly's excellent article describes how to tackle this job without disconnecting the AC or removing the dash. Joe's article was very helpful when I replaced the heater core on my '96 recently.

Vaughn

 

[nutter3]

I just did this one. I had reduced heater performance over the last 2 winters. This spring my HC started leaking. Found an empty . 22LR casing under it. Must have worked its way in from the vents.

Did the Joe Donnelly method. It worked very well. Took me alot longer than planned, but that was mostly because I was replacing all the coolant hoses, R&clean radiater, clean interior with seats removed, etc. I would add that it would have been alot harder with the front seats installed.

 

[GCroyle]

Issue 46

Vaughn,



Out of luck at my desk on Issue 46, my collection starts at 48. I checked and it is not an archive article. I think I heard it is also in 59, guess which issue I can't find!



Maybe some PC creative type could figure this one out, or can we ask Robin to create an archive article?

 

[Vaughn MacKenzie]

Vaughn,



Out of luck at my desk on Issue 46, my collection starts at 48. I checked and it is not an archive article. I think I heard it is also in 59, guess which issue I can't find!



Maybe some PC creative type could figure this one out, or can we ask Robin to create an archive article?

I just sent a message to Robin

 

[CBlack]

I know my core is shot as well, but it is only noticeable during the winter when I have defrost or the heat on.

Is it still leaking now, with only the AC working?

 

[GCroyle]

CBlack,



Fill out your signature so we know what your truck is please.



I noticed it coming out of the floor vent on my '97 on the passenger side, and yes, I think the coolant is still flowing through it, if I'm wrong, someone will put up a picture or diagram or just correct me.



I had installed some bypass caps on the steel lines that I found at a local auto parts store, fit just right. Lasted a few days,then one blew out. I cannot recommend the exact brand that I used, it didn't work. I suggest getting a piece of hose and shunting the steel lines from the engine together.



Good luck.

 

[Matt42]

cblack wrote:
I know my core is shot as well, but it is only noticeable during the winter when I have defrost or the heat on.

Is it still leaking now, with only the AC working?

Yup. It's leaking. The coolant constantly circulates thru the heater hoses and heater core, even when it's 120 degrees outside. A bypass line will allow the coolant to recirculate. I usually bypass the heater core in the summer to eke that last degree out of the air conditioner.

I tried the block seal routine, with no noticeable effect. I ended up changing the heater core and evaporator.

 

[CBlack]

Thanks Gents.

Perhaps I've missed it somehow, but are there instructions for bypassing the core?

Thanks again.

 

[Matt42]

Thanks Gents.



Perhaps I've missed it somehow, but are there instructions for bypassing the core?



Thanks again.

No instructions. It's more of a shade tree mechanic kludge. Using 5/8 inch heater hose of good quality, loop from one of the steel pipes clamped on the head to the other. Use worm screw clamps, or the squeeze clamps that came on the truck. Keep the hose loop off the exhaust manifold and the exhaust pipe. Don't let the hose kink. For a neater, non-kink setup, it works to solder up a U fitting using 1/2 inch copper water pipe. It is also possible to carefully form a single length of 1/2 inch type L soft copper pipe to do the same thing. For a hose retainer bulge or flare, I wrap about two circles of 18 gauge stranded wire around the ends, about 1/2 inches in from the ends, and then butter them with solder.