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Adding headlight relays, can't due to lamp out BS.

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In "light" of recent threads I checked the voltage to my headlights. It was 11. 7-11. 8 at the headlights and 14. 5-14. 6 at the battery. Lights need full voltage.



I got the crazy idea to add a couple of relays to each light, triggered by the factory wiring. This was inspired by hoping to not go HID, by Danniel sterns web site.



To make a long story short, I got it wired in and used the factory wiring as the trigger for the relays, and power from the battery. I found that the light out warning system will not keep the relay triggered, causing it to pulse. Just like there is no bulb in place.



Is there a way to make the relays stay engaged and still use the factory wiring as the trigger for a relay set up. Or has Dodge done the ultimate in darwinism protection for the tards that can't tell if a light is out?
 
You need to put in a power resistor to fake out the computer.





Agree'd, just like when changing rear bulbs to LEDs, you need to have resistance in the line to make the computer think there is still an incandescent in place.



Should be a simple resistor, measure the resistance across a head light bulb and look for a resistor at radio shack with a similar resistance.
 
Thanks for the reply's. I will head to the shack when I can. The potental for gain with the relays is roughly 45%more lumens from what the sterns site stated. I will definately reserect the thread when I have results.



Does the resistor go inline on the positive trigger wire? Or does it go from + to - ?



Thanks for the help.
 
Thanks for the reply's. I will head to the shack when I can. The potental for gain with the relays is roughly 45%more lumens from what the sterns site stated. I will definately reserect the thread when I have results.



Does the resistor go inline on the positive trigger wire? Or does it go from + to - ?



Thanks for the help.





Positive to ground... you want the computer to read a resistance between those two. The filament in the bulb connects positive to negative, and acts as your "resistor" in the OE setup, so to speak.



You probably need one for the low beams and one for the high beams to work correctly... and probably a left and right side??
 
I read in the service manual sometime ago that the dealer could disable the lamp out warning system. Is that just for new trucks or could it apply to the 03/04 as well?
 
Saw this post and thought I would add what I did on my 2002. I have been running HID headlights for about two years now. Always had problems with one starting, and having to turn headlight switch on and off to start both. Bought new switch but never installed. Bought kit on e-bay that plugs into factor harness, one for each headlight. Comes with resistors and relays etc. I think I pad $40. 00 or less for both. Works great now using factory switch only as a switch. Headlights get power right from battery. Both lights start right away. No problems and installed six months ago. Please do search on e-bay as no guaranty I can find it.
Rick
 
Saw this post and thought I would add what I did on my 2002. I have been running HID headlights for about two years now. Always had problems with one starting, and having to turn headlight switch on and off to start both. Bought new switch but never installed. Bought kit on e-bay that plugs into factor harness, one for each headlight. Comes with resistors and relays etc. I think I pad $40. 00 or less for both. Works great now using factory switch only as a switch. Headlights get power right from battery. Both lights start right away. No problems and installed six months ago. Please do search on e-bay as no guaranty I can find it.
Rick
Rick, What HID bulbs did you add? I'm trying to improve my light system on my 2nd gens.
 
I bought a kit on e-bay, worked fine until as I posted it started to light one then the other.
Thought it was the switch, and went out and bought one. Trick is with HID's you want battery power to fire ballast's, and use factory switch to control low voltage and amps. Also bought that kit on E bay, that was fairly cheap.
Once you have HID's you will not go back, I had to lower my headlight so I would not throw people into ditches. Real HID systems use HID Bulbs and Ballast. Its a plug and play conversion. I never use my brights now.
Rick
 
Weird, I use the factory wiring to fire relays for my foglights, backup lights and driving lights and I never get a lamp out indication. I wonder what you're doing differently.
 
The difference is you are supplementing your headlights with auxiliary lights and did not disconnect the headlights... he disconnected his headlight circuits to get more light by feeding them full voltage...
 
Why not leave the stock wiring to the headlights, then tap that voltage to run a relay that switches battery power to the headlights too? You would then be feeding the headlights with both the original power and supplement it with direct power. Since this is all the same power, just one that drops a little voltage through the wiring, it should be fine.
 
i was thinking the same thing, 4 75 watt resistors is gonna generate a lot of heat too. , almost needs to be mounted in an aluminum heatsink of some kind.
 
Adding lights

Sound like this thread might be a good place for this question.



I want to tap into the high beams to fire a relay to run extra driving lights.



Were is the easiest place to tap in at ???? And do you think the small amount of power to run a relay would effect the computer?



Thanks for any help I can get . .



Joe
 
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