Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Starter dieing?

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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Bad bad leak underneath, HELP!

Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Slip in overdrive?

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Last night I jumped into my truck and noticed that the motor cranked real slow, but fired and once running ran fine. I chalked it up to sitting in the cold (high teens - low 20's) for 14 hours. But when I got home (30 minute drive down the highway) to the safety of my driveway I turned it off waited 10 minutes and went out to start it again. Same thing, noticeably slow cranking speed. I check the batteries (both new this past summer, red top optimas) and cables (all tight and and no corrosion, Boeshield works really well) so all I am left with is the starter. Today I take my other car to work and when I get home I check the battery cable at the starter, and the stud appears to be loose, not the cable, but the whole stud. This can't be good. And I see a sticker on the starter that says "World Class - Remanufactured" so now I am suspecting the started is an offshore rebuilt unit and is dieing.



I put Larry B's super contacts in when I first bought the truck about 3 years ago, could those contacts be worn?



Do I have my current starter rebuilt by a local shop, who I have dealt with in the past and had excellent results or do I just buck up and order a NEW Denso unit from Larry B?



Any other possible idea's before I plunk down $$$ for another starter.



Thanks

Chris
 
I put Larry B's contacts in my starter about 500k ago. A few months ago while replacing the lift pump I checked them since the starter was out anyway. The contacts showed less wear after 500k than the originals showed in 150k. Looks like it's time for a rebuild, but it only takes a few extra minutes to verify the contacts are good.
 
Chris,



Same thing happened to me. I thought it was my batteries since they're 4 years old but they both tested fine. I cleaned all the terminals and no change. The starter finally got to where it wouldn't turn over at all. Replaced the starter and now it whips over so fast it sounds weird after listening to the slow crank so long.



Scott
 
Chris,



Same thing happened to me. I thought it was my batteries since they're 4 years old but they both tested fine. I cleaned all the terminals and no change. The starter finally got to where it wouldn't turn over at all. Replaced the starter and now it whips over so fast it sounds weird after listening to the slow crank so long.



Scott



So did you get yours rebuilt? get a remanufactured unit? or go new?



Chris
 
Chris,



Same thing happened to me. I thought it was my batteries since they're 4 years old but they both tested fine. I cleaned all the terminals and no change. The starter finally got to where it wouldn't turn over at all. Replaced the starter and now it whips over so fast it sounds weird after listening to the slow crank so long.



Scott



When I put the super contacts in, the starter acted in a similar fashion. Spun the engine over much faster, but slowly over time has lost that kick and yesterday was noticeably slower and that has me concerned. I really don't want to get stuck on the side of the road, especially in winter.
 
One of the reasons I always start my truck with a little pedal is to minimize wear and tear on the starter. Mine is the original with Larryb's starter contacts. A friend of mine bought a rebuilt starter for his '96. It failed and dropped the gear off inside the bell housing. That jammed the torque converter. We had to remove the transmission to get it out. Absolutely no rebuilt starters for me when I need one.
 
I did some checking around today on starter prices and was floored. First went to RockAuto just to keep everyone honest and prices ranged from $170 to $270 +/- from remans to premium remans (not sure what the difference is there, sounds like a scam to me) to 100% new starters. Larry B's stuff is in the $400 range, but that is for a new Nippon/Denso starter with the upgraded contacts, so that's the high water mark. So I figured let me try the dealer, sometimes they surprise you and they did. $625 for a starter ($125 core) and it was a reman???? How the #$%^ is that possible? Anyway ended up at my local NAPA with brand new unit for $250 out the door. I figure I'll keep the old one, take it apart and see exactly what the problem is. Its a reman unit so I don't know if its work fixing and keeping as a spare or not?

So this weekend I'll be doing the swap and with any luck won't use too many expletives or throw too many tools.

Thanks for the info and the insight.
 
Mine was cranking real slow a couple years ago and I ordered the Larry B's and installed it. Some thing, the truck sounded strange like the starter was going to launch it into orbit. I took the old one apart and the inside of the casing had so much "gunk" in it I was not suprised that it had slowed down at all. Thought about getting it rebuilt but never got any further than that.
 
I use lots of NAPA parts. The thing that bothers me about their new starters and alternators is the country of origin. That is why they can sell them so cheap. Good warranty though.
 
Mine was cranking real slow a couple years ago and I ordered the Larry B's and installed it. Some thing, the truck sounded strange like the starter was going to launch it into orbit. I took the old one apart and the inside of the casing had so much "gunk" in it I was not suprised that it had slowed down at all. Thought about getting it rebuilt but never got any further than that.

I did the swap today and everything went fine. Mine was also covered in a nice layer of slime. I think the downdraft tube should be rerouted behind the starter? I took the old one apart with the idea re-using the Larry B contacts and swapping them into the new starter, but they had worn enough that I'll just get new ones. One contact look OK, but other had worn to a knife's edge. Maybe new contacts would do the trick, but I'm not taking the chance. Getting stuck on the side of the road is not fun.

I use lots of NAPA parts. The thing that bothers me about their new starters and alternators is the country of origin. That is why they can sell them so cheap. Good warranty though.

I've never really used NAPA because they are not that close, but I am more and more impressed with the guys that run the one closest to me. They know their stuff and now we'll see how their product holds up. English was not the dominant language on the box, but the part looked identical. Now I have to remember to mail in the warranty card.....
 
I think the downdraft tube should be rerouted behind the starter?



I used a one inch wood bit to drill a hole in the center of the lid to a small plastic plastic peanut butter jar and a few 1/4 inch holes to let it breath. Push the lid over the vent hose and tighten a tie wrap below it at the desired height. Screw the jar into the lid. Empty it when you change the oil. Works for me.
 
I replaced the blowby hose with a longer one that is routed to the rear. No more problems. It's out of the way. No jar to empty. No oily mess because it ends just in front of the rear tire.
 
The brushes are worn just take it apart and replace the brushes they are real easy to replace.



I finally got around to taking the old starter apart. Is this unit worth putting brushes into? Is all that greasy buildup normal (I doubt it)? If it's worth putting brushes into and keeping as a spare, then I'll go for it.



Thanks

Chris
 
Starter

Am-in the process of rebuilding my selenoid with the kit from Genos garage ,Genos was cheaper than Larry B, will check the brush's in the starter also, have to get them at Larry B's when I pulled the staerter out, I noticed my lift pump is leaking, orderd a new one I found on E Bay brand new cummins,
 
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