Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Water pump replacement advice

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I did a bunch of searches with the keywords 'water pump', but didn't turn up the kind of 'how to' advice I'm looking for.



I have a coolant leak, somewhere near the front of my engine. The fan sprays it all over. At 100K+ miles, I figure a water pump and thermostat replacement wouldn't hurt. All the hoses are fairly new silicone, so they should be good.



I bought a water pump and thermostat kit from Genos.



The factory service manual takes the approach of replacing the entire cooling system - I just want to do the water pump and thermostat. I figure I need to drain the coolant down from the radiator petcock and remove the serpentine belt (replaced it recently too).



Do I need to remove the engine fan?

Are there any special considerations for the o-ring, I don't see a gasket indicated?

Being quite familiar with all my hand tools, how long should this job take me?

I have an inch-pounds torque wrench and the torque spec for the mounting bolts.



Thanks,

Boondocker
 
No, you don't need to remove the fan. It is a remarkably easy job.

The O-ring works very nicely, just be sure all surfaces are clean.

You don't need to remove the belt, just loosen it and slip it off a pulley so there is slack in it.
 
That's probably all the encouragement I need to get started. I hope it fixes the leak since I haven't positively identified the source.

Thanks
 
Weep hole for the pump seal can be seen with an inspection mirror - it's underneath the pump horn. Easy replacement 1 hour max job.
 
You'll have to take the alternator loose and swing it out to gain access to the thermostat housing. Considering the ease of the water pump job the thermostat will take longer.
 
I just got done doing this exact job myself. I went ahead and replaced the thermo as well. That cost half as much as the water pump! All Data lists 1 hrour of flat rate time. Very, very easy. BTW - the torque specs are 18 ft. lbs. for all the bolts. I wasn't able to get 18 on one of the thermo housing, though. (Two of them torqued but one more just wouldn't, so I stopped before I wrecked something. ) New pump from NAPA - $50; new thermo from NAPA - $25. I was able to re-use all the lost coolant/antifreeze after I filtered it a few times through a paint filter. saved $$
 
About putting a new water pump in use???

Some of old schoolers have been taught to have engine running when adding coolant to purge the air. Especially when engine is hot.

My mechanic (super nice man) friend says to be sure to have plenty of coolant installed before cranking the engine. Reason is, spinning a water pump seal when it is dry can cause damage. It must be sumerged.

Anybody ever heard of that?
 
About putting a new water pump in use???

Some of old schoolers have been taught to have engine running when adding coolant to purge the air. Especially when engine is hot.

My mechanic (super nice man) friend says to be sure to have plenty of coolant installed before cranking the engine. Reason is, spinning a water pump seal when it is dry can cause damage. It must be sumerged.

Anybody ever heard of that?



I guess that makes sense. I thought the seal was a mechanical seal = porcelain and a carbon ring (not sure if the materials I mention are correct, but the thought is - is the seal mechanical?), I could be wrong never really took apart a water pump?
 
Sleeper job.

Fill radiator as much as possible before starting. I use an Air Evac to vacuum out the coolant system and "suck" the new coolant back in. Bleeding air out is a pain and time consuming.
 
I guess my way of changing is way off in left. I just quickly took out the pump and quickly put new one on. made a mess sure. caught it on a drip pan. didn't mess with hoses or crappy drain valve/petcock on the rad.
 
burping the system

Sleeper job.



Fill radiator as much as possible before starting. I use an Air Evac to vacuum out the coolant system and "suck" the new coolant back in. Bleeding air out is a pain and time consuming.



How do you use the air evac? Does it connect to the top of the radiator and it sucks the coolant in from the overflow? I have a system that needs to be burped. Temp gauge fluctuates driving down the highway. New pump and thermostat. Thx.
 
The Air Evac is a tool that I purchased that connects to the radiator fill neck (either on the radiator, or on the overflow bottle - Ford, Chevy). Using an air comressor, it brings the entire coolant system to a vacuum of about 22inHg. Then you close the valve, attach the fill hose to the tool, and place the other end in the coolant bottle, bucket and open the valve back up. The vacuum sucks the coolant back in through the tool.

UView: Product Detail

http://www.mityvac.com/catalog/MV_GenII.pdf - Bottom of page 2
 
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