48 re 1-2 gear hunt

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Transmission Fluid leak over front diff

Fluidampr install for 06

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Has anyone had experience with the tsb on the 48 re 1-2 gear hunt. I believe i am having that problem on my 06. I am going to take it to the dealer on monday since i have the powertrain warranty. Is this covered? Any comments will help. I have the smarty revo installed and am going to take it back to stock before i take it up there.
 
I had the fix done and it still hunts only fix I see is to pull it out of "D" or put your foot into it. Someone on TDR showed some aftermarket parts that may fix it try a search.
 
Smarty with the TM reduced is just an issue on the trucks with a TTVA motor. Best fix for it is a DTT shift enhanser and one of these. The OE junk simply does not last or like things out its comfort zone.



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I had the TSB done on my '05 and the problem persists. I had the DTT shift enhanser installed, and it makes it less annoying. It really doesn't make it go away, but it changes the speed at which it occurs, and makes it a bit easier to drive around. I would agree with cerberusiam about the solenoid kit being required.
 
I tried everything, then I came across info about ajusting the cable that runs from the engine to the trans. I don't remember the name of the cable but it runs above the high rail pump under the black plastic sheild. There is a clip under there that slides to lossen the cable and you just sliding the cable forward or back wards. I don't remember which direction I went in to correct the problem but I think I moved it towards the firewall, just more it about 1/8" at a time. What I did was mark the original setting with white out and went from there. You will notice the difference right away if not you went the wrong way with the cable. It is nice becuase the truck now stays in first and second until the proper speed and doesn't get confused in slow moving traffic. If you do a search I'm sure you will find more detailed info.
 
I tried everything, then I came across info about ajusting the cable that runs from the engine to the trans. I don't remember the name of the cable but it runs above the high rail pump under the black plastic sheild.



FYI, thats the throttle valve cable. The 05 and newer trucks did away with it in favor of the TTVA motor. To achieve the same results we use a shift enhancer to advance TV pressure and control the indecision. Its only partly successful if the gov solenoid is not 100% functional.
 
I tried everything, then I came across info about ajusting the cable that runs from the engine to the trans. I don't remember the name of the cable but it runs above the high rail pump under the black plastic sheild. There is a clip under there that slides to lossen the cable and you just sliding the cable forward or back wards. I don't remember which direction I went in to correct the problem but I think I moved it towards the firewall, just more it about 1/8" at a time. What I did was mark the original setting with white out and went from there. You will notice the difference right away if not you went the wrong way with the cable. It is nice becuase the truck now stays in first and second until the proper speed and doesn't get confused in slow moving traffic. If you do a search I'm sure you will find more detailed info.



Mine has been doing this since I put it on the dyno about three weeks ago. I must have mashed too hard on the pedal, it also lit up my dash break light and the ABS light, they wouldn't go out. I borrowed a Smarty, no codes, cleared the codes that were not there and the lights extinguished.



I have been thinking it may be this cable or the APPS, I will adjust my cable, Thank you very much! Jess
 
My 06 is doing the same thing - hunting or glare shifting - this topic comes up from time to time... in my research today, I called shops and mail order places and here is what they said> 1. local shop said they do this install, replace the Gov solenoid pack and the pressure overdrive pack for about $250 depending what parts cost because they say Dodge keeps raising their prices (and there is another manufacture that sells Chinese Dodge parts now). 2. Dodge Dealer said that the TSB said to replace the gov solenoid pack, part is $125 plus $100 labor and fluid. 3. mail order place says to order the BD valve body $525. 4. another mail order says to order valve body $498. 5. 4Wheel parts also sells the Valve Body for $498. I like what Cerbs option for now.
 
There is another possibility that shows promise for the 05+ trucks that doesn't include a bunch of $$. The main problem is the TTVA has zero pressure at no speed and it does not ramp fast enough at times. If one changes the at rest set point on the TTVA motor it will advance things like a TV cable adjustment.



This has worked on built transmissions so it should do the same thing on an OE unit.
 
I tried everything, then I came across info about ajusting the cable that runs from the engine to the trans. I don't remember the name of the cable but it runs above the high rail pump under the black plastic sheild. There is a clip under there that slides to lossen the cable and you just sliding the cable forward or back wards. I don't remember which direction I went in to correct the problem but I think I moved it towards the firewall, just more it about 1/8" at a time. What I did was mark the original setting with white out and went from there. You will notice the difference right away if not you went the wrong way with the cable. It is nice becuase the truck now stays in first and second until the proper speed and doesn't get confused in slow moving traffic. If you do a search I'm sure you will find more detailed info.



FYI, thats the throttle valve cable. The 05 and newer trucks did away with it in favor of the TTVA motor. To achieve the same results we use a shift enhancer to advance TV pressure and control the indecision. Its only partly successful if the gov solenoid is not 100% functional.



Ok guys... . The cover is removed, I have identified the bottom cable going to the trans, how does it slide??? adjust?? I am assuming I should adjust to remove slack?
 
Front band adjustment is very critical when trying to fix the hunting. With the Smarty it is probably burned/way out of adjustment up by now. The 48 does not handle more power well without modifications. Just spend the money for the upgrades if your going to keep the additional power.
 
Ok I found it on the back, outside the plastic cover. I will remove my intake horn to get a better look.



I think DTT has a actuator that controls the Throttle Valve,It pulls the arm Back when at High Boost level,it slides right along the cable on 03/04 trans If not thats what I recommend,05 and up you need to manipulate the Motor by Software or mod the Gear. I have one from Banks ,But its air operated, I use it for My PacBrake,and when racing I use a switch to pull it back,But you need the correct VB for this application.
 
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Front band adjustment is very critical when trying to fix the hunting. With the Smarty it is probably burned/way out of adjustment up by now. The 48 does not handle more power well without modifications. Just spend the money for the upgrades if your going to keep the additional power.



Can you elaborate on which upgrades? I had DTT go through my transmission at around 15k when it was new, was my first upgrade after the EZ and original AFE torque tube.



I moved the cable sheath one notch away from the housing, this stopped the 1-2 shuttle while coasting at low speeds. It does hold each gear a tad bit longer on normal exceleration, but I noticed it also downshifts with less throttle... . not so sure I am keen on that.
 
I moved the cable sheath one notch away from the housing, this stopped the 1-2 shuttle while coasting at low speeds. It does hold each gear a tad bit longer on normal exceleration, but I noticed it also downshifts with less throttle... . not so sure I am keen on that.



Thats normal, you now need more speed to balance the gov pressure against the TV pressure to cause upshift\down****. If you don't have the upgraded gov solenoid then that might have been part of your problem also. The gov pressure has to ramp correctly and steadily for the shift sequence to happen.
 
Thats normal, you now need more speed to balance the gov pressure against the TV pressure to cause upshift\down****. If you don't have the upgraded gov solenoid then that might have been part of your problem also. The gov pressure has to ramp correctly and steadily for the shift sequence to happen.



Ok thanks. I probably do not have the upgraded gov solenoid, I can look on my build sheet from DTT, but I believe they used my factory solenoid. It's been several years since I was at their shop in Abbotsford, hard to remember.



Do you happen to have a part#, or kit upgrade# ?
 
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