Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) No wait to start

[Jason707]

Hey I dont no if this is just a cowinsadents or if i did something to make it happen. I drove my truck this morning no problems at all. Got home was working in the garage and had some spare time so i decided to cut back and redo the battery conections that were corroded. So i disconted them cut back cleaned and re attached. Now it doesnt tell me to wait to start and my check engine light is on. What did i do wrong? No i do not have a scan tool yet. please help.

 

[JKreiss]

Check your codes with the key. Turn the ignition On off, On off, On. Your codes will be displayed where your odometer readout is. It's probably something simple. Double check your work from yesterday, your problem is probably in there somewhere. Make sure the grid heater wiring wasn't cut. Fill out your signature with your truck details as well, it will help others in the future help you.

 

[Jason707]

Im still trying to figure out how to fill out my signiture.
99 Ram 2500 4x4 5. 9 auto basic edge module
I have double checked the wiring i messed with yesterday and everything looks fine. I have power to the grid heater relays but i dont think im ever getting the trigger voltege to the relay to send it to the actual grid heater. I dont quit understand how disconecting the battery terminals would cause this problem.

 

[WestTN]

Wait to start does not appear unless it is cold. .

 

[Jason707]

Ya i no that. But like this morning it doesnt come one at all wont start. But if i just let it sit after about 30 sec i hear the pump and the wait to start lights up then goes out and it will start.

 

[FCrowder]

sounds like the lazy wait to start light issue. start by cleaning all electrical connectors. if that dosent fix it you probably have a problem with the ecm on the engine. some people have said they had the ecm reflashed and it worked. i had the same problem but i had to replace the ecm. got mine from bob wagner from smarty. works great now.
francis

 

[Jason707]

So is it possible that from unhooking the battery I smoked the ecm? How do you go about flashing the ecm?
Jason

 

[Jason707]

Has anyone tried the bluetooth scanners that work via android or apple phones? I havnt found if they work with diesels or not. Thanks
Jason

 

[Jason707]

Update. Took it to work this afternoon and had our shop mechanic use his scanner. No engine codes but it had a transmission code something along the lines of bus comunication with transmission. Wich makes no sence because there is no issue and never was an issue with the transmission. He cleared the codes. Nothing changed with the starting issue still has it. Drove it home. Then went to go to the store a little while later and bam the check engine light is back on. is it possible i messed up the PCM when i unhooked the battery? Im lost.

 

[Jason707]

Ok so last night I disconected my edge box and left the batterys un hooked all day. When I got home I cleaned the IAT sensor re installed and hooked the batterys back up. Check engine light still immediatly there. So I went and picked up a scan guage 2 tonight from a guy off of CL. Pluged it in and got a P 0234 code wich i bieleive is a over boost code. I cleared it and that was the only code there. Light did not go off. Drove about 20 miles stoped re checked it and still no codes no peding codes and nothing to force clear. So I drove the rest of the 40 miles home. Got home MIL light was still on. Decided to go back out and play with it checked for codes again still nothing to clear but this time when I forced it and the light went out. Took the key out put back in and started the truck just like it should. Shut it off and repeated and all seems ok for the moment. Still need to drive it and see if it comes back. Took less then 5 miles last time.

 

[Jason707]

Now I get a code P 1694 I cant find what it means. Can anyone throw me a bone here? THanks Jason

 

[JKreiss]

I'd double check all your fuses really close, then start turning your attention to the crank position sensor. My buddies 02 was throwing a 1694 as well. However, all his gauges went out and the odometer read "no bus" or something of the sort. The code itself is simply stating there's no communication going on between the computer so the truck tries to protect itself. His was that sensor and after he replaced it the code went away and all is well. I wish i had something better for you but it's a place to try looking. Keep us updated.

 

[Jason707]

I did double check every fuse today in the engine and the dash. Pulled and ohmed each fuse. All fuses ok. All guages work. Truck runs and drives fine. IF i clear the code and just turn the key and start it the MIL stays off the whole time I drive it. If I turn the key and wait then MIL comes on and gives me the code.

 

[JKreiss]

That's really bizarre. So it's just a code now, no other symptoms? I'll look at some other stuff tomorrow, maybe find something else that might help.

 

[SnoKing]

Did you drop the extra wires on the battery bolts and forget to hook them back up. I believe the grid heaters are two extra black wires with fusable links that connect to the drivers side positive battery clamp bolt? Or did you put them on the negative post by mistake?



Did you check for voltage at the grid heaters with your meter?



SNOKING

 

[Jason707]

That's really bizarre. So it's just a code now, no other symptoms? I'll look at some other stuff tomorrow, maybe find something else that might help.

Well the wait to start syptom is still there. But at least I have a code now.

 

[Jason707]

Did you drop the extra wires on the battery bolts and forget to hook them back up. I believe the grid heaters are two extra black wires with fusable links that connect to the drivers side positive battery clamp bolt? Or did you put them on the negative post by mistake?



Did you check for voltage at the grid heaters with your meter?



SNOKING

Yes I did double check and make sure the grid heater wires are attatched to the positive. And yes I did check down at the block to confirm voltage on each telling me the fusible links are good. Like I think I said last night the thing the totally perplexes me is that if i clear the code and not wait for the wait to start to come on and start the truck if it starts it runs fine drive it around and no issues MIL never comes back on. However if I wait for the wait to start to come on after I have cleared the code as soon as the wait to start lights up the MIL comes back on and the code re apears. Hope im ecplainig this well enough.

 

[JKreiss]

The only thing else i can think of would be something screwy with the grid heater relays. they are on the fender well and are connected to the PCM which might explain the code you're getting too. That ties both symptoms together and could be a place to double check.

 

[Jason707]

Ok i will look at that. On a good note. I got home from work today. Turned the key waited till the it allowed me to start it then cleared the code. Started it drove it around then headed to the smog shop. Went in asked them not to shut it off they said ok. Passed the smog now i can get my stickers and still drive my truck. . And work on this problem without stressing to much.

 

[Jason707]

Update. Last weekend I purchased and installed another motor. Picked up a complete engine out of another 99 mexican block. Installed the new motor wich replaced my ecu. Started the truck up and my problems disapeared. Thank fully this saga is over. Now I can enjoy my truck.