Fuel filter condition monitoring

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All the extra effort paid off... Good to hear. But You do need to find out If Your filter(s) have Bypass Valves or Spring, Also IF the Bypass in the Head, Set at What PSI?



The filter for the B20 kit does not have a bypass, nor does the filter head. It's the one I cut apart in the other filter thread that had a MOPAR label.



The B20 kit is a nice kit, I also have it installed on my truck. I can't have a Smarty and the 2nd WIF sensor so I went back to a cheaper non WIF sensor filter until Smarty writes a B20 Kit tune (they told me they will).
 
X2 Good touch tone... even 0 if the filter is designed for vacuum outlet,the Gear Pump produce 15/25hg that why Higher pressures give misleading indications and in some case push the trash Right through the Media.
BTW, is anyone else using Stanodyne in every fill up because of the ULSD needed for the lubricating the pump ? I by it in 5-gal containers from my local injector rebuild shop for half the price sold in the smaller containers lasting about a year+.



I keep a graduated quart container in the rig getting 8 fills, I rarely ever run w/o it.



Another interesting tidbit, I seem to get better performance from Safeway or Fred Meyer fuel stations first indicated by my son in his TD Jetta, I never fill up anywhere else unless out of town.
 
As far as Additive Check with local refinery. (Chemist Dept) He in MN the Additive package for #2 Clear retail Diesel is SO GOOD Flint-hills recommends NO Fuel additive (Mn 5% Mandatory Bio-Diesel Year round) If you add to The Fuel B5 you may cause a separation... causing the Bio to become solid. MN retail Diesel is good to -17. Flint-hills Diesel was problematic in extreme cold 3/4 Years Back,But it seems Flint-hills curred that problem. I see NO reason NOT to add 2 Cycle oil (1 pint per 30 Gallons), But if buying Clear #2 and bio I would NOT add any 2 Cycle.
 
The filter for the B20 kit does not have a bypass, nor does the filter head. It's the one I cut apart in the other filter thread that had a MOPAR label.



The B20 kit is a nice kit, I also have it installed on my truck. I can't have a Smarty and the 2nd WIF sensor so I went back to a cheaper non WIF sensor filter until Smarty writes a B20 Kit tune (they told me they will).



If it has quality Media then its DARN good filter.
 
I have issues with the water in fuel sensor wires with the B20 kit. If it's a damp day out or you hit a puddle just right you get the light saying that you've got water in the fuel, there is none just that the sensor wire has gotten wet and it's a false signal one of these days I'm going back to Dodge and have them turn it off so I can remove the 2nd sensor and wire. That said the filter is not a ByPass typenor is the stock one on the engine so if you monitor the pressure after both filters you can run them as long as you have good flow and pressure with out fear... .
 
No... if You get any hard material to pump Injectors it will either shorten the life of componets or destroy them... I would NOT be this adamant if I did not have Proof. . But YOU can Believe Me or NOT. I Am NOT going to debate anymore. If You want Proof You can be the next Victim.



The problem With Pressure ONLY and NO Vacuum Gage, Pressure at 1 end and Vacuum on the other, The Gear Pump increases the Vacuum as RPM raise, at Idle you could use the theory BC Pressure/RPM/Vacuum are all equal, (NOT While Driving or Load) it will be to late by the time you can decipher the Change) look at your boost gage it changes +/- even at the slightest grades.



If I had NO bypass Filter I would only gage it at Idle +/- Pressure, and response according.
 
If you have pressure just before the CP3 you are NOT drawing fuel on a vacuum, it is physically impossible.
 
There there won't be any pressure, only vacuum. . which would be shown on a pressure gauge as 0 psi.

You can't have pressure and vacuum in the same line at the same time.
 
AD are looking for another confrontation? If You are You are,You are One Keystroke form being on My ignore list. . I have been extending Kindness to You, Its to the point YOU are taking advantage of it... Please add Me to Your Ignore List and I will add you to mine,This should Make You happy you are 1st on the List.
 
All good discussions above, but want to keep this thread on the topic I started off with to get (hopefully) the answers I need.



Summary: I've got two filters in line from the tank. Is there a way to monitor them somehow to know which one to change (and when to change) other than using mileage and/or age?



Steve
 
I have been reading this thread from day one and trying to decided on how to answer your question on Filter Monitoring. In short, just change your fitters either every 10K or the recommend interval of every 15K per Cummins. This is the cheapest method and will offer the best results for fuel pump and injector life. I change both of my filter ever 10K, the Cummins inline filter and my other 2mu filter before the CP3 pump.



I know that larger equipment manufactures have investigated filter monitoring and have found ways to do this. Usually filter plugging will set off an alarm on a 2. 5 millon dollar mining machine to shut down and call a service man for repair when plugged. The use of a differential pressure gage was involved along with sophisticated analog programming was also required. This was in stalled in one of the onboard computer control modules for the machine. Keeping in mine that a lot of false positives were reported with this system. Most differential pressure gages can cost up to $500 just to the OEM. I know I have destroyed a few in my working career.



Jim W.
 
Can anybody think of a way to tell which of the two filters to change?



Likely the primary filter is going to plug first. Usually 2-4 primaries before you have to change the secondary.



A lot will depend on the fuel you are using so its not an exact science. You will need to determine which filters to change first and what frequency.
 
AD are looking for another confrontation? If You are You are,You are One Keystroke form being on My ignore list. . I have been extending Kindness to You, Its to the point YOU are taking advantage of it... Please add Me to Your Ignore List and I will add you to mine,This should Make You happy you are 1st on the List.

Again with the AD. . do you really have no attention to detail?

Please explain how you can have pressure and vacuum in the same spot of the same hose at the same time. . I would love to hear this, as would any physics instructor. If there is pressure on the gauge the flow is coming from the lift pump, if there is vacuum then the flow is coming from the CP3.

I have come to the determination that you know a lot about the CP3, but when it involves anything outside it you make some pretty off the wall comments and when asked to back them up you talk about your bank account or resume... I don't buy either one as anything with actual knowledge.

You talk about not liking the internet hype, but you are the number one guy I have seen on the net who throws data around and when asked to back it up has ZERO way to do so. Go ahead and ignore me, it will keep me from having to try and show you the facts that are in opposition to your opinion.

All good discussions above, but want to keep this thread on the topic I started off with to get (hopefully) the answers I need.

Summary: I've got two filters in line from the tank. Is there a way to monitor them somehow to know which one to change (and when to change) other than using mileage and/or age?

Steve

It would take 2 pressure gauges, but at the cost of filters if you just have one gauge after both filters and change them both at the same time you will be further ahead in the $$ department.
 
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AD the facts... The OP is trying to gage filter intervals according to Pressure... You Should Post YOUR phone 3#s and address, that way when someone applies your understanding and it fails they can appear at Your Door and serve you the Papers.

OP as stated it would be at times misleading to change according to PRESSURE only intervals,use it as a touch tone, and when all things are consider and measured equally, I have stated this Before CR does NOT confirm to logic in most cases... it conforms to exprience. . If some one claims to be and expert on CR HP then he should open his own shop an held responsible for the decision (They Promote)... AD You are Ignored.
 
WTF is this AD??

CR's can defy logic, but NOT physics. .

You talk a lot of garbage about the internet data. . but NEVER provide any factual statements, nor any recommendations to back the statements up.
 
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Again with the AD. . do you really have no attention to detail?



Please explain how you can have pressure and vacuum in the same spot of the same hose at the same time. . I would love to hear this, .



LOL AD. . NEGATIVE pressure????... . I kept telling my wife that I was a genius, now I have proof!!



on a different matter, so how many miles/much time do you have on the stock in tank lift pump and at what h. p. ??? I ask because you are running the 2mic kit... just wondering if youve seen any long term effects or premature pump failure...
 
That's like negative lift from a wing :)

I am at 72K miles, and installed the MK2+ and BF1212 at 19. 7K miles. I ran about 325 rwhp until about 60K miles, then 360 rwhp until 65K miles, and just over 400 rwhp since. (All rwhp numbers are close). I have seen no signs of any pump issues with 3 filters and 100 hp over stock... I always have positive pressure greater than 5, except when my filters needed replaced it drooped to 3.
 
Pretty sure I can come up with everything Im going to need from work...

I may also install an underhood fuel filter differental pressure gauge to monitor the modified system.
 
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