Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Leaking fuel filter drain valve--any helpful ideas?

[rainfly]

My 2000 Dodge 24-valve is starting to leak diesel fuel through the top of the fuel filter drain valve. I can usually get it to stop by jiggling the flipper handle or rotating it sideways. But it still drips a little fuel.



I see another diesel forum recommends unscrewing the threaded top off the drain valve and replacing 2 "O" rings on the valve shaft and 1 "O" ring in the threaded top. Supposedly, it's a 30-minute job.



Has anybody here tried this? Howdiditgo? Are there better "O" ring materials to use for B5 biodiesel fuel mixtures, or some rubber "O" ring materials to avoid using? How long should replacement "O" rings last in normal service?



Should I also remove the four T-15 torx screws that hold the drain valve to the fuel filter canister and replace two "O" rings there at this same time?



Any other maintenance ideas to consider doing while I've got the fuel canister drained?



Thanks for looking!

 

[Sticks]

Yup, replace all O-rings. The ULS diesel did not play well with the older O-rings in the filter housings. Ford had the same problem.

 

[kscheffler]

use viton O-rings they are fuel compatable...

 

[rainfly]

Thanks, Sticks and kscheffler. I did some calling around and can't find Viton O-rings locally, but Nitrile are available. I Googled "O Ring set" and checked some O-ring manufacturer websites. They recommend Nitrile, Viton, and Kalrez for use with diesel fuel. Nitrile rings are available at my local Napa dealer, plus Harbor Freight and Auto Zone.



I even called my Dodge dealer about a rebuild kit with 5 Nitrile O-rings, but all they told me was, "Our replacement drain valves are $45 and will take three days to get here. " I sure am disappointed in Dodge parts availability. Guess I'll have to hunt around in the O-ring bins and find some rings that fit!



Now, since I'm a shade tree mechanic, I need this rain to stop so I can go outside and get this little job done.



Thanks again, guys.

 

[ILIANBG]

Check Vulcan Diesel Performance online. He's really good guys to deal with. I got viton seals with washers when I did the fuel lines. Hope it helps.
Ilian

 

[rainfly]

Thanks Ilian. Their phone # is off because they're switching phone systems (?), but I'll send them a note. I appreciate the Viton source info.

 

[kscheffler]

Take some pictures and let us know how this project goes sounds like we will all be there at some time.

 

[skillsaw]

Any update on this situation? I'm in this boat now too. I just did the fuel filter heater washer fun and still have fuel leaking somewhere in that area. Next is the drain area

 

[Sticks]

IIRC you can get the O-ring kit for the water drain at the stearlership.

 

[skillsaw]

10-4.

Funny that I have a brand new case of about 300 o rings from the fuel heater plug saga (only used the 1 green #10) - I bet this new challange needs the only rings I don't have in the box.

Gotta love Murphy's Law!!

Thanks Sticks for quick reply

 

[Moose]

A new drain valve from cummins runs about $13 and bolts on in 30 seconds after draining the bowl.

 

[Sticks]

Easiest way to verify the leak is to thoroughly clean the suspected area with brake clean or a good degreaser, make sure it's good and dry (compressed air) then either pressurize the fuel tank (10-15psi) or bump the starter and let the LP run a few cycles and watch to see what gets wet/ where the drips come from.

 

[mwilson]

Fleetguard Numbers here.....



Drain Valve w/o-rings is 3926759S Should sell for $8. 50 or so.

http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/ca...ber=3926759S&partflag1=5&forPartNumber=FS1269



O-Ring Kit Alone is 3928815S Should sell for $3. 59 or so.

http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/ca...ber=3928815S&partflag1=5&forPartNumber=FS1269



For that kind of money I would change the drain valve assembly, IMHO.



Mike.

 

[waltk]

Fleetguard Numbers here.....



Drain Valve w/o-rings is 3926759S Should sell for $8. 50 or so.

http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/ca...ber=3926759S&partflag1=5&forPartNumber=FS1269



O-Ring Kit Alone is 3928815S Should sell for $3. 59 or so.

http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/ca...ber=3928815S&partflag1=5&forPartNumber=FS1269



For that kind of money I would change the drain valve assembly, IMHO.



Mike.

I second the above suggestion... and add the accompanying-comment: if the part is available from Cummins it will cost *significantly* less than the same part in a Mopar box! Repeat that ten times and familiarize yourself with your nearest Cummins Branch location. Some things are Dodge-dealer only, but engine parts/accessories can be had elsewhere (Cummins)... write your engine serial number in your owner manual for ready-reference, too...

 

[GKruzich]

I just replaced the drain valve on my truck. Cummins Rocky Mountain here in Billings had the valve/o-ring kit for $16. 65 out the door. I was in the local dodge dealer a few days later and they had the same kit sitting on the parts counter, invoiced said $24 and some change. For the time/money it took to change the whole thing, I would just grab the whole kit and not worry about it.



Greg

 

[CAPTPHIL]

13 bucks and a call to Geno`s. Mine will be here tomorrow. Geno`s Tech support can answer most questions or tell you where you can get answer`s without any BS.

Good Luck Capt Phil

 

[KrisKringle]

Just ordered the kit from Geno's... (3959453S, 13. 00$) they are going to ship it over here First Class Mail... Fantastic. I tried swapping out the 'O' rings, but the §"=)%U"!?=%)"!§! thing is still dripping... This morning it was all but peeing a stream... before I take it off, and either make a block-off plate, or put two screws in the holes, I figure I just will wait until the new unit comes... a few drips I can live with for a week or so... but if it starts gushing again... Jeepers, one surprise after the other... about that crankcase breather... now that is going to need a creative solution... . JK

 

[Bunyan]

The top just below the lever may need to be tightend. The ribbed cap below the lever can loosen. I used my fingers and screwed clockwise and the leak stopped. That was about 9 years ago. No problem since.

 

[KrisKringle]

The top just below the lever may need to be tightend. The ribbed cap below the lever can loosen. I used my fingers and screwed clockwise and the leak stopped. That was about 9 years ago. No problem since.

Trust me, it was not loose... the O-rings were pretty hard. Perhaps from the mix of bio-diesel here, or something. I spoke with Cummins and Fleetguard here, and they seem to think that the housings warp... Perhaps the reason for the new part number. I just cut the nib off the valve, and made a block--off gasket. I will change out the drain valve either when I change the filter, or need to drain off water... Thanks. Jonathan