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Upper radiator hose swelling up like a .....

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Well it finally happened, I had to change out the small coolant hose at the turbo / exhaust manifold area. After that repair, I drove the truck to heat up the engine and check for leaks. What I now find is the upper radiator hose swelled so much that I can't get a piece of paper between it and the belt. Is there a good quality hose that will last more than 6 years? Now is the time to change my hoses, as I am due for the coolant flush.
 
I run whatever Napa sells. Have not swapped out my 06' yet. No problems with Napa when I swapped my 96' CTD. I'm also running Napa hose on my Jeep.
 
After you change the hose(s), put a 7# cap on the radiator and take some of the stress off the cooling system.



I just noted that there is a 16psi radiator cap on my truck. :eek: That would explain why the larger radiator hoses are blowing up like a balloon and the heater hoses are ok. Has any one installed the Mishimoto silicon hoses? Is the 6. 7 hoses the same as the 5. 9?
 
After you change the hose(s), put a 7# cap on the radiator and take some of the stress off the cooling system.

If it cant handle 16 psi you better fix something... ... ..... The lower pressure cap will also lower the boiling point of the coolant. Why would you want to do that??


Each 10 kPa (1. 45 PSI) of cap-rated pressure changes the boiling point by 2°C (3. 6°F). For example: A 90 kPa (13 PSI) radiator cap will increase the boiling point from 100°C (212°F) to 118°C (244°F). Similarly, a 100 kPa (14. 5 PSI) radiator cap will raise the boiling point from 100°C (212°F) to 120°C (248°F).
 
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I just noted that there is a 16psi radiator cap on my truck. :eek: That would explain why the larger radiator hoses are blowing up like a balloon and the heater hoses are ok. Has any one installed the Mishimoto silicon hoses? Is the 6. 7 hoses the same as the 5. 9?



I have Mr Bob's silicone hoses on both my CTD's,they are a life time hose from what I see. There are a number of off shore inferior silicone hoses out there. Check how many ply they are and the size of the cord in the reinforcement also matters.

16 psi is not too much. If your hose is ballooning out find out why,contamination weakens rubber as well as electrolysis.
 
If it cant handle 16 psi you better fix something... ... ..... The lower pressure cap will also lower the boiling point of the coolant. Why would you want to do that??





Each 10 kPa (1. 45 PSI) of cap-rated pressure changes the boiling point by 2°C (3. 6°F). For example: A 90 kPa (13 PSI) radiator cap will increase the boiling point from 100°C (212°F) to 118°C (244°F). Similarly, a 100 kPa (14. 5 PSI) radiator cap will raise the boiling point from 100°C (212°F) to 120°C (248°F).



I know that the coolants boiling point is 265*f. @ 0psi. (50% mix) If the engine gets to that temperature, 40*f. higher boiling temp is not going to help me. I do understand pressure/temperature relationship. Long ago, I use to run a 7psi radiator cap on my 1968 Charger. The 16psi cap was causing the heater core to leak every couple of years. I do appreciate your input.
 
Boiling Point

Ethylene Glycol Solution

(% by volume) 0 10 20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100

Temperature (oF) 212 214 216 220 220 225 232 245 260 288 386

(oC) 100 101. 1 102. 2 104. 4 104. 4 107. 2 111. 1 118 127 142 197
 
if it cant handle 16 psi you better fix something... ... ..... the lower pressure cap will also lower the boiling point of the coolant. why would you want to do that??





Each 10 kpa (1. 45 psi) of cap-rated pressure changes the boiling point by 2°c (3. 6°f). For example: A 90 kpa (13 psi) radiator cap will increase the boiling point from 100°c (212°f) to 118°c (244°f). Similarly, a 100 kpa (14. 5 psi) radiator cap will raise the boiling point from 100°c (212°f) to 120°c (248°f).

+1... ... ... :)
 
You are correct, Bob, the lower pressure will lower the boiling point. How often will these cooling systems ever reach that limit? The higher boiling point isn't going to do you any good after a blown hose just dumped your coolant all over the street. I have sat in summer traffic with my signature truck with the AC off (so the fan doesn't have to run), and the temp guage will just crack 200* after 15 minutes of virtually stopped traffic.



In the old days, some cars were equipped with fire-breathing engines and very marginal cooling systems, and they needed all the help they could get to keep from over heating. That characteristic certainly does not apply to these trucks.
 
Bob; checked the actual Zerex G-05 pdf. and they do have a note at the bottom that states all boiling points are with a 15psi radiator cap. The owners manual states that 245*f is over heating and to cool the engine down (see "temp gauge" in owners manual for the complete statement). Looks like hose replacement at coolant flush is the way to go. (Unless I shell out some big bucks for the Mr. Bobs hoses) Where did you buy your hoses? Did you get the complete kit or just the coolant hoses? My truck only has 45,000 mi.
 
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I have the complete kits on both trucks. The boost hoses come out costing less than the oem and are much stronger. The upper hoses on the common rail trucks are very close to the idler pulley. I have seen them touch with just running a coolant flush with a bit of expansion so a premium hose makes a lot of sense on a $15k engine.

I buy Directly from Mr Bob's distributing,tell him you are a TDR member and he just might give you a price break and tell him Bob says Hi
 
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