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2005 coolant leak

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I just noticed a small 1" spot on the concrete below the front of the engine. The truck has 60K miles. Coolant is down about 1/4" in the reservoir bottle. Looking under neath I see a drop of orange/red coolant on the front side flange of the oil pan. I can not see any leaking hose fittings. Could this be a water pump bearing failure? A flashlight shows tiny drops flying past behind the fan blades. How should I proceed? Dealer wants 695 parts and labor. 325 for the pump and gaskets assuming its a water pump. Is there a good way to verify the WP is bad? I've heard this is a relativley easy job and the truck needs a coolant, hose and belt replacement anyway...





TIA.
 
The WP from Cummins is about $130 and it takes about 30 minutes to replace it - your dealer is a crook.
It's usually the bearing that fails. You can loosen the belt up and grab it with your hand. Then try to move it side to side, up and down. If there's movement then it's bad. There may or may not be a weep hole at the bottom of the WP and if there's any coolant coming out of it the WP is toast. 60K is very early for it to fail though.
 
Our 2006 WPfailed around 60K as well, but we had purchased an extended warranty. Our '98 12v was replaced at 120k just because I had some time. Super simple and cathartic.
 
NAPA sells a lifetime water pump for $50 and you can do it your self for less than the deductable. Genos also sells a pump. Do not go to the dealer!
 
NAPA sells a lifetime water pump for $50 and you can do it your self for less than the deductable. Genos also sells a pump. Do not go to the dealer!



Checked NAPA here in Wylie. It's a the same GATES-43526 pump as Genos sells for 34. 95. NAPA says thats their cost.



Looks like I'm going to replace:



  1. Waterpump
  2. Serpentine belt
  3. Thermostat
  4. Hoses
  5. Coolant
 
I would not replace the hoses at 60K miles. They have many, many miles of life left in them and if you get the replacements at someplace like NAPA, they will not be as good as the old parts your removing.
 
I would not replace the hoses at 60K miles. They have many, many miles of life left in them and if you get the replacements at someplace like NAPA, they will not be as good as the old parts your removing.
the hoses are dodge/cummins, the belt is a gates HD.
 
Got the belt and the upper hose off. The WP has no play. The upper hose where it connects to the thermostat has an area on the bottom side that shows signs of corrosion and leaking. Also noticed dried spray on the intake next to it. Since this hose leaks, it's gone. I'll keep the Gates WP as a spare...
 
I used this post to reference the belt schematic:
https://www.turbodieselregister.com...3-2007/220212-belt-schematic.html#post2125624
The belt tensioner is represented by the circle with the arrow and the direction to turn to loosen it. Use a long 1/2" drive (no socket) from under-neath to engage the lever on the tensioner (hard to see the 1/2" square drive but it's on the crank side). Pull it fully loose. Slip the belt off the AC compressor. You will need to turn the belt sideways in-between the tensioner pulley and the AC before you can remove or install the belt, other than that, all my hose clamp release tools were too small so I used channel locks to start the removal and removing the upper hose connection at the thermostat to facilitate access, there were no other tricky parts for me.

Interestingly the cummins upper hose I had to replace the original had the clamp fixated to the thermostat side so it would not slide to any location but where it needed to be when tight on the thermostat housing. I had to re-use the original radiator side clamp.
 
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UPDATE: After more than 30 days, most of them with the truck sitting in the driveway, the leak seems to be back. There was no spot under it for more than 7 days, then yesterday I say a 6"x2" coolant spot under the truck in the same place.

What could be causing this leak with the truck parked for days with nothing leaking then spontaneously drip some coolant? Weep-hole?
 
Presurize the sysem with a radiator tester and watch to see how long the system holds pressure. Sure way to find a leak. The bracket that mounts the AC compressor to the side of the engine uses a wall seal between it and the side of the block. It is the fitting that the radiator outlet hose connects too. If this seal leaks, as mine does in cold weather, its very hard to poistively locate. The coolant drips off the bottom of the front right corner of the block or the A/C compressor depending on the angle of the truck. Ken Irwin
 
Any chance it's coming from one of the heater hoses at the fire wall?
I know the 06's had issues with this more than anyone else but just thought I'd throw it out there.
 
The 06 does not use the same plumbing that leaks on the 06

Also be advised that the gates water pump is made in china
 
Also note that the 06 water pump is not as fast to change out as the 03-04. The shroud design took care of that. Wait till you get the opportunity to replace one that has a steering box brace that has seen extensive salt and has a Banks cold air with scoop.
 
Presurize the sysem with a radiator tester and watch to see how long the system holds pressure. Sure way to find a leak. The bracket that mounts the AC compressor to the side of the engine uses a wall seal between it and the side of the block. It is the fitting that the radiator outlet hose connects too. If this seal leaks, as mine does in cold weather, its very hard to poistively locate. The coolant drips off the bottom of the front right corner of the block or the A/C compressor depending on the angle of the truck. Ken Irwin
This sounds like a viable possibility. Guess I need to rent a radiator tester if I can find one.

Did you ever fix your leaking seal? I see splatter on the air box but no where else. Its kinda hard to see down between the belt and the fan which make removal of belts and hoses almost an impossibility to see what was wet before.
 
Any chance it's coming from one of the heater hoses at the fire wall?
I know the 06's had issues with this more than anyone else but just thought I'd throw it out there.
not likely because it is only wet at the front engine oil-pan flange where a single drip can be seen.
 
I was just looking at rockauto.com and Bosch and Delco both offer water pumps for Cummins for about $41 each, and Gates pump was $29. 00. its my personal opinion that any of the three are as good as the OE pump.



Just my thoughts...
 
I had a small coolant leak from the outlet on the radiator neck. The overflow hose is just below the radiator filler cap. I was finding coolant up front, thought is was pump also, after searching for the coolant trail, yes up around air box, I found the hose itself was loose on the fitting, causing the leak. I plastic tie wrapped it, like a mini hose clamp and now 30,000 miles later, no leak... It is worth a look, a 6x2 spot is significant, and without the pressure tester, will be hard to pinpoint. Another tool is an inspection mirror, that with a small flashlight will allow you to see places you could easily miss. One thing, I learned many years ago, look as far up the engine as possible and as far foward, even sitting the dripping could be a collection that started in another area only to finally collect on your floor when the truck isn't running.
 
there is a coolant line behind the exhaust manifold by number six. it is very common for the 06 truck to have it weep. the is an updated hose and clamp for it the hose is about 3/4 and about 4 inches long. it connects to metal tubes for the coolant system.



if you need it go to cummins, dealer will rip you off.
 
Bglidewell, no I haven't fixed the leak yet. I bought the seal and haven't got around to it. I need to remove the A/C compressor and I expect to have to do some cleaning on the block side to get a good seal. Will probably not do it until the next coolant change in a couple of years. The leakage is not that significant but it does show up where you state, either dripps off the corner of the A/C compressor bracket or the oil pan flange. Ken Irwin
 
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