One Wheel peel???

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2006 Dodge Ram Tachometer Repair

06 mileage numbers?

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Seams any time I am a tad bit hard on the skinny pedal after a stop I spin one tire (inside of a turn, usually wet). I had it in for this, and as you might guess " its working properly". Kept up w/ oil change intervals. Is it just me? Are they just not very aggressive. Other side never seems to grab, just evens out w/ speed of the truck.

I am well versed in diffs, have set up a few dozen over the years.

No tuner or other HP goodies.

You Guy's have similar findings?

As always thanks everyone

Wygate
 
Your sure its a Posi?? All 3 AAM Posi / limited slips I've had have spun both tires pretty easily. Does that one tire have less tread or less aggressive tread then the other?
 
Tires equal size/height/PSI/ tred. Looked up Vin and looked @ the guts, it is a posi. It is frustrating, when traffic is coming I can't get her moving like she should. Put a trailer on and worse. Seems the worst in a turn, straight line works like one would expect. No additive required for the model listed.
Any thoughts on a fix?
As for rain, filled a 5 gal bucket in last couple weeks, normal fall. Only place people complain about too much sun one week, then too much rain the next! Liquid Sun Shine:)
 
Mine works very well,both spin hard. Living in Astoria I sure you see lots of wet road


Same here. Sometimes taking off on a hill and around a corner, it gets itself so worked up and I have to stab the clutch to keep it from spinning.
Stupid truck is going to get me a ticket someday.
 
Try a set of traction bars, I have a set that I put on over the summer. Didn't really try them out in the rain until the last week or so. The back will step out equally, mostly to the left, at will or not at will. Just about all of the time. Can't seem to get going very well. Have to increase the distance I give someone before I pull out. Going to try some weight in the back and lower the tire pressure. It is ridiculous, the OEM BFG tires suck in the wet.

Guess its all about torque, first time where too much is bad thing.
 
I have a 2wd, not looking forward to the snow IF i even drive it. (2001 reg. cab short bed 6cyl. 3. 9 2wd is daily driver) I think sand bags A LOT in the back is my only hope.
 
The misconception is that a limited slip stops wheel spin-it does not it just applies torque to both sides. This is why the truck will get sideways. with only one wheel spinning the other acts as a rudder.
That is why so many vehicles are being built with stability control to electronicaly control what your right foot can not(or will not).
 
My limited slip use to work a little better than it does now..... on a hill in green grass it is totally useless today... . and I have tried every trick in the book to try to get it to work.
 
The misconception is that a limited slip stops wheel spin-it does not it just applies torque to both sides. This is why the truck will get sideways. with only one wheel spinning the other acts as a rudder.
That is why so many vehicles are being built with stability control to electronicaly control what your right foot can not(or will not).
Rear steer is not my issue, I can't seem to get out of my own way add a trailer and better have a big gap in traffic. Just fishing to see if it is just me or they are all close in this aspect.
 
It looks like you have some extra weight ahead of the front axle also the longer the wheel base the less weight transfer you get on acceleration.



Nick
 
If you don't hava a limited slip, it sounds like you need one. When i test drove the `10 I bought, it didn't have one. I had the dealer add one.

If you do have a limited slip, it isn't working correctly.
There was an old TSB to test the LSD on the First Gens. Of course I can't find it.

This sequence is different than the TSB, but it should work.
Jack up both sides of the rear axle and place on stands.
Block both sides of both front wheels.
With the transmission in Park or any gear (manual), release the parking brake.
Turn either rear tire. If the other tire turns the opposite direction, the limited slip is broken, or you don't have one.
If you can't turn the tire, put the transmission in neutral and try again. If both tires spin the same direction, the limited slip works, although maybe not fully. If only one tire turns and the driveshaft turns, the limited slip is broken or you don't have one.
 
Just fishing to see if it is just me or they are all close in this aspect.

No, it is not usual with a LSD. You should no problem accelerating in a turn on dry ground. Both tires should plant and spin at the same time once the LSD activates. On dry ground you will always skid the inside tire becuase there is no bias and both wheels try to turn the same speed.

Does this happen worse one direction or is the same turning left or right?

There have been a few that reported this same result with an LSD. Some never got it to work, others got in a tight turn under power and load and heard a loud bang from the rear end and the LSD starting working perfectly after that.

If you can't turn the tire, put the transmission in neutral and try again. If both tires spin the same direction, the limited slip works, although maybe not fully. If only one tire turns and the driveshaft turns, the limited slip is broken or you don't have one.

Nope, that is not the way a Tq bias LSD works. On these trucks it will act just like an open diff spinning the wheels. The LSD will only activate with input TQ on the pinion and if the wheels speed is different from side to side. Otherwise you never know its there.

The Torenson type LSD consists of a helical cone inside the spider gear of each side. When the wheel speed and axle speed are different the helical gear walks a brake out to the spider and brakes the faster spinning axle to transfer TQ to the slow one. Once the speed equalizes the brake cones withdraw to static position.

There are six small brake shoes on the brake cone that apply the needed friction to slow the over speed axle. Several problems can occur with this type of setup. If you hammer the throttle too hard with one wheel spinning the brakes cannot handle the TQ and will eventually burn the friction material off. Also, if the wrong fludi is used or over use occurs the frictions will glaze and not work either. The other bigger problem is the helical cone will jam in its receptacle and not activate correctly. All it takes is a sliver of metal from casting or a rough edge in the mating and it locks itself up. Possibly it could be due to lack of use that the seize also.

Either way, if you actually have an LS and you one wheel burn all the time the diff needs disassembled and the problem found if you want to work. When the LS works correctly on a slightly slick road in a turn a heavy bump of the throttle will swing the rear end out of the turn with little spin and line it up straight. You have to get on and off the throttle to stop the rotation but once you get the feel its hit the throttle lift, wait a count, and nail it again and you launch straight.

If the LS doesn't work the truck just rolls thru the turn with one tire spinning and little acceleration while you wonder what anchor has been deployed. Another thing to try is adding a little brake if the spin starts. This will help slow the over speed side and get the LS to activate and hold better given it is functional.
 
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Cerb,
Thanks for the new info, I know about the put on a little brake to even them out, that said I never thought to do it:p. Dealer pulled spec sheet and if it is correct I have a LSD also they opened her up and "found nothing". I have removed and installed LSDs of similar design,(along with lockers and plenty of gear sets) don't remember is this the kind that looks like a normal open diff or has a "solid" case around the moving parts i. e. Detroit lockers. I have changed the fluid myself but that was a while ago and the old timers has set in.
Thanks again guys
 
It has a mostly case around the guts. You cannot even see the spiders IIRC. The only way to tell if there is an issue with it is pull the 3rd member and dis-assemble it. Removing the cover and looking is only an excuse to charge for labor and fluid.
 
I have a 2wd, not looking forward to the snow IF i even drive it. (2001 reg. cab short bed 6cyl. 3. 9 2wd is daily driver) I think sand bags A LOT in the back is my only hope.



I have a 2WD CCLB and it does just fine in Montana Snow. I do put some sand bags in the rear but not (A LOT) I like that front end STUCK to the ground and just enough weight in the back to keep it from BOUNCING
 
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