Air Bags - Pac or Firestone

[n7gxz]

OK so what about in cab controls? Who has done what? DAvid

Shadrach, check out post #3 in this thread and you'll see what I did on my truck, ping tanks with in cab controls. I have an engine driving compressor setup (home built but similar to Kilby) with a 5 gallon main tank.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com...ombinatation-TDR-ISSUE-78&highlight=ping+tank

Kevin

 

[AH64ID]

Since the only time I am loaded ( the truck that is :-laf ) is when I have a trailer, or camper, I will plumb them as one. David

I know I have mentioned it already, but I highly suggest plumbing them separately. Body roll has the potential to be increase, and you get zero sway reduction with them plumbed as one.

If your camper is a slide-in you will really hate them plumbed as one.

 

[MLee]

When deciding what to purchase for my truck, I read a lot of reviews. The biggest complaint was the quick connects for the air lines. I had one that would not seal up at the joint so I purchased the 90* and adapters for the plastic line and this is what was recommended in the reviews. Us with earlier trucks have the wheel well liners and if we have a problem these have to come out.

As a precaution I'd get a pair of the brass fittings and keep on hand to fix a leaky fitting.

 

[jeepit]

I had a similar problem with Air Lift air bags on my '03 dually hauling a heavy slide-in camper. After about 30k miles of heavy loading and pounding on rough highways, the driver side mounting bracket on the axle bent slightly to the inside throwing the air bag off vertical which would have eventually ruined the air bag. I replaced the bags with Timbrens . If I go back to air bags it will be PacBrake air bags because of their more robust mounting plates on the axle.



Bill

Bill,

How are the Timbrens when riding w/o a load?

 

[Shadrach]

Nice installation Motorhead. Unfortunately my dash is different being an 03 Laramie. David

 

[brillmtb]

Anyone know if pacbrake bags will fit my 2003 with a Reese elite 18k 5 th wheel hitch wilt under bed rails

 

[Shadrach]

They bolt onto the axle housing. Look for the "V" shaped rubber axle bumper, it needs to be removed, as that is where they mount. David

 

[TJJEEPER]

Shad, I highly recommend using the dual controller. Just a little more work for a whole lot more usefulness. I run out in the Mojave Desert where there can be some pretty stiff cross winds. I can drop the pressure in the windward side and boost the leeward side. Makes a nice difference towing the 37' 5'er.

 

[Shadrach]

Thanks Greg but I don't think I will need that, BTW How did you plumb your setup?
Kevin Could you give me some more details also? Thanks Guys.

David

 

[n7gxz]

Thanks Greg but I don't think I will need that, BTW How did you plumb your setup?
Kevin Could you give me some more details also? Thanks Guys.

David

What part would you like details on David?

Kevin

 

[Shadrach]

I want to keep my setup simple. I have a belt driven air compressor with a 1/2 line going to a 2. 5 gal air tank. See here for details: #ad
It goes thru an air manifold and regulator. I have an electric air pressure gauge mounted on my pillar. You have to have the key on to know the air pressure.



I was thinking of plumbing the ping tank this way:

Air tank to pink tank using 3/8 line with a check valve ( for drain back ) and a ball valve valve ( for manual shut off )

Pink tank to regulator and gauge ( mounted in the cab ) using 1/4 line - not sure where to mount it just yet

Regulator to tee and then out to the 2 bags using 1/4 line also.

I will use compression fittings with inserts - no push on line fittings for me. The push on hose that came with the Kilby kit got replaced with stainless steel wire braided hose, with plastic inside, just like a Kenworth would use coming off their compressors.

I live in a climate where we get get snow and cold temps so I can't have solenoids under the truck.



My main load is my TT so I don't think I need to have each bag separately controlled.



David

 

[BIGNASTY]

Shad Sounds like you have it figured out pretty well to me, one thing that I put in on my air tank is a pull cord drain. I live just south of you and your right about the cold, when I get done using my compressor on the truck I drain the tank. I have two separate compressors on mine. One for the air bags that is under the rear seat on the drivers side in a little cubby hole. Then I have an Extreme Air Compressor that I use for tires, air jacks, impact wrench to change tires or what ever. That is the tank that I have the drain valve on. If I were to use an air tank such as you that might be something I would look into. JMO. I like the looks of the compressor set up that you have, that has to be one tight fit getting that rascal in.

BIG

PS: I to have mine plumbed as ONE! not separate, I understand the reasoning that for the separation but have not had any problems towing a TT or the Gooseneck trailers. But then again im driving like an old Codger and take my time or leave early so I don't have to hurry around.

 

[n7gxz]

I want to keep my setup simple. I have a belt driven air compressor with a 1/2 line going to a 2. 5 gal air tank. See here for details: #ad
It goes thru an air manifold and regulator. I have an electric air pressure gauge mounted on my pillar. You have to have the key on to know the air pressure.

I was thinking of plumbing the ping tank this way:
Air tank to pink tank using 3/8 line with a check valve ( for drain back ) and a ball valve valve ( for manual shut off )
Pink tank to regulator and gauge ( mounted in the cab ) using 1/4 line - not sure where to mount it just yet
Regulator to tee and then out to the 2 bags using 1/4 line also.
I will use compression fittings with inserts - no push on line fittings for me. The push on hose that came with the Kilby kit got replaced with stainless steel wire braided hose, with plastic inside, just like a Kenworth would use coming off their compressors.
I live in a climate where we get get snow and cold temps so I can't have solenoids under the truck.

My main load is my TT so I don't think I need to have each bag separately controlled.

David

Hi David, I built a similar belt driven system that you have for my 2011 to fit on the 6. 7L (also built one that I had on my old 2001). It sounds like you have a good plan, you could probable get by with 1/4" from the main tank to the ping tank. From the ping tank to the bags I'd go to a 1/2" to allow better flow between them.

Kevin

 

[AH64ID]

My main load is my TT so I don't think I need to have each bag separately controlled.

David

What is the advantage to not doing it? The 30 seconds you save by only filling one?

 

[Shadrach]

What is the advantage to not doing it? The 30 seconds you save by only filling one?

It's just simpler that's all. Less plumbing, less chance for leaks. To each their own David

 

[AH64ID]

Fair enough. It's simple enough to add a 2nd valve if you find you don't like it.

 

[Newt]

What is the advantage to not doing it? The 30 seconds you save by only filling one?

Depends on how you look at it. What is the advantage to doing it?

Newt

 

[AH64ID]

Depends on how you look at it. What is the advantage to doing it?

Newt

Sway control with a load is the biggest advantage. With the bags plumbed as one you get none, and with a heavy load (even if its all low slung tongue weight, as a W/D hitch will add body roll at low speeds) when you go around a corner the air flows from one bag to the other with body roll, as you come out of the corner this keeps the body roll active until all the air can flow back to the inside bag (1/8" lines don't move air all that fast). With them plumbed separate the body roll changes the pressure in the bag giving more resistance on the outside bag and less on the inside, this reduces body roll. Even with a TT its very apparent, or at least it is to me.

Like I mentioned nearly all of the complaints about bags I have seen over the years can be attributed to plumbing them as one, most of those are on lighter suspension rigs; however, the reason is the same.

Side to side leveling is only really needed for slide-in campers, I run mine equal all the time but have them separate for the advantages in corners.

It doesn't take a lot of air to make a big difference, the most I ever run is 50 psi.

 

[BIGNASTY]

AH64ID

Quote
It doesn't take a lot of air to make a big difference

If this is true wouldn't running them separate be kind of risky? if a little makes a big difference then, how accurate is the gauge really! Not trying to argue about this, its just that mine are plumbed as one and I have never noticed any sway or any ill effects. Think it maybe has something to do with yours being a 4x4 and sitting up a little taller than my 2wd?

 

[AH64ID]

Why would it be risky?

With the same springs in the rear I am not sure how much 2wd to 4wd would matter?