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Installing Cab Clearance Lights.

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I bought the after market MOPAR kit to install the clearance lights that did not come stock on my truck. Maybe it's just me but the new placement for the radio/sirous antenna kinda just sticks out there without the lights to offset it. And the one ton just seems to need them. :) The kit has a template and instructions to consult the service manual for instructions on how to drop the headliner. I believe I can figure out how to drop it but the side air bags give me some pause. Has anyone done this or do we have access to the manual on this site? I checked with a local body shop and he said they look online when they need information from a manual.

I installed the chrome/oval cab length side steps with no problem and the el cheapo bug deflector for the hood. That may not last long in the breeze as it tends to vibrate on the ends. Bought the heavy duty mud mats and recommend those as well as the heavy duty mud flaps for the rear. The side molding is still en route from an after market vendor Ram uses. All of the items could have been ordered but I bought a truck off the lot for a better deal. They are a bit more expensive after the truck is built and a lot more if you have to have them install the items.

Mike

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Has anyone done this or do we have access to the manual on this site?
Mike,

Here's the headliner removal procedure from the factory service manual on CD. Obviously I left out about a dozen pictures.

It says to remove the windshield, but that seems rather excessive and I'm assuming there must be a work around.

If you'd like, I can try saving the relevant pages as pdf's so you can see the pictures.

Best regards,

John L.

CAUTION: Hands should be clean or clean cloth gloves used when handling the headliner to avoid damage to the headliner.

1.Remove the windshield. (Refer to 23 - Body/Stationary Glass/WINDSHIELD - Removal)

Really?

2.Remove the upper B-pillar trim (Refer to 23 - Body/Interior/PANEL, B-Pillar Trim - Removal)

1.Remove the front door cowl trim panel. (Refer to 23 - Body/Interior/PANEL, Cowl Trim - Removal)

1.Using a Trim Stick C-4755 or equivalent, disengage the retaining tabs of the cowl trim panel (1) from the retainer clips in the door sill.

2.Pull the cowl trim panel rearward and remove it from the vehicle.​

2.Remove the rear door scuff plate. (Refer to 23 - Body/Interior/PLATE, Scuff - Removal)

1.Using a trim stick C-4755 or equivalent, disengage the retaining tabs of the sill trim panel (1) from the retainer clips in the rear door sill and remove the trim panel.​

3.Release the retaining clips and remove the trim panel(1).​

3.Remove the upper C-pillar trim, if equipped. (Refer to 23 - Body/Interior/PANEL, C-Pillar Trim - Removal)

1.Remove the rear seat assembly. (Refer to 23 - Body/Seats/SEAT - Removal)

1.Disconnect the electrical connector (1), if equipped.

2.Remove the bolt (1) attaching the center sholder belt (2) to the retractor and position the sholder belt out of the way.

3.Remove the rear outer bolts.

4.Remove the rear inner bolts (3) and buckles (2) as necessary.

5.Remove the front fasteners (1).

6.Lift the seat assemblies up and separate the cab hooks (3) from the loops (1 and 2).

7.Remove the seat assemly from the vehicle.​

2.Remove the seat belt anchor (4).

3.Separate the lower trim retaining clips from the pillar and the rear door scuff plate.

4.Remove the trim (2).​

4.Disconnect the CHMSL wiring electrical connector.

5.Remove the instrument panel side trim covers and disconnect the electrical connectors (1).

6.Separate the support push pin fasteners (2).

7.Disconnect the A-pillar wiring and clips (3).

8.Disengage the sunroof trim ring if equipped.

9.Remove the DVD monitor screws (2) and separate the monitor (1) from the roof, if equipped.

10.Disconnect the DVD housing electrical connectors (1), if equipped.

11.Remove the overhead console. (Refer to 23 - Body/Interior/CONSOLE, Overhead - Removal)

1.Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable.

2.Using your fingertips, grasp the sides of the overhead console and pull straight down evenly to disengage the four snap clips.

3.Lower the overhead console from the headliner far enough to access the wire harness connectors.

4.Disconnect the reading lamp wire harness connector (1).

5.Disconnect the sunroof switch wire harness connector, if equipped.

6.Disconnect the inferred temperature sensor wire harness connector (4), if equipped.

7.Disconnect the power sliding glass wire harness connector (2), if equipped.

8.Disconnect the Homelink® transceiver wire harness connector (3), if equipped.

9.Remove the overhead console from the vehicle.​

12.Disconnect the sunroof module electrical connector (1) from the sunroof module takeout, if equipped.

13.Disconnect the electrical connector (1) from the body harness at the C-pillar left hand side.

14.Remove the body harness clip from the C-pillar inner left hand side, if equipped.

15.Disconnect the main harness from the body harness at the C-pillar inner right hand side.

16.Remove the headliner through the windshield opening.

17.Remove the visor outboard retainer from the body.

18.Remove the overhead console backing plate from the body taking care not to break the backing plate.

19.Remove the visor center support mounting clips.

20.Remove the coat hook mounting clips.

21.Remove the DVD mounting clips.
 
The procedure I read was to remove the seats and go out the back door.
So I guess the only reason the factory service manual wants you to remove the windshield is to have an easy way to pass the headliner from inside the cab. If you only need access to the front part of the cab for clearance light installation, maybe it'll be possible to simply move the headlinder backward a foot or two instead of removing it from the cab entirely?

John L.
 
When I was discussing this with the body shop, he said the goal would be to drop the headliner down in the back seat area to get enough room to work in the front. Since I am not replacing the headliner, the windshield removal is obviously out. I did reason that the rear seats would have to come out as they do not flip down out of the way. The directions say to disconnect the ground cable so I guess I would disconnect the grounds on both batteries. I figured I could reason out the removal but was more concerned about the side air bags. Don't know anything about those critters and nothing is mentioned about them in the removal, so maybe it's a non-issue.

Firefighter..based on the thread about the leaks around the factory install of these lights I asked the body guy about that and he suggested applying a ring of silicone around the hole before setting the gasket. I don't recall the size of the hole at the moment but it's large. The bulb and socket have to pass through there. The kit is $114.00 thru the dealer and contains the template and brief directions but does have a picture of where to connect the green (hot) wire.

John, thank you for the manual info. That is very helpful. The reference to removing the rear door scuff plate is a bit confusing though. Do you see a reason for this in the pictures? I am trying to visualize whether I need the pictures or not but it may be that the side pillar trim where the air bags are located will not come out without doing that.
 
I bought my clearance light kit on eBay last Christmas, for around $90 including shipping. I spoke with the dealership, and they quoted me 400+ tax to do the install. I may end up having the dealer do it just so if there are any problems in the future, it will be on them.
Craig
 
The directions say to disconnect the ground cable so I guess I would disconnect the grounds on both batteries. I figured I could reason out the removal but was more concerned about the side air bags.
Disconnecting the batteries and waiting a few minutes will prevent the air bags from deploying.

I am trying to visualize whether I need the pictures or not but it may be that the side pillar trim where the air bags are located will not come out without doing that.
I suspect you're correct... removing the scuff plates aids in removing the pillar trim panels.

I figured it'd be best for you to see the pages and pictures directly, so I saved them as pdf's but I'm unable to upload all of them to the forum due to the file size limit of 250kb. Instead, I've uploaded them to a folder on my Dropbox account. You can download them HERE.

Note that I'll be deleting the files at some point, so please grab them while you can.

Best regards,

John L.
 
Got them John. Downloaded and copied. They are a great help locating the points and direction of removal for the panels. Some have to move forward or back it seems to release them. Thank you so much again and I will let you and all know how this went.

Mike
 
I am in the process/thick of this installation and pulled out all the rear seats, plastic and the side plastic trim. Went very slow so as not to break any of the plastic clips. So far so good but you need two different length tools to reach behind some of the retaining clips if you do not want to risk breaking them. You also need a 50mm socket for the seat belt bolts on the side as well as other metric tools.

I have a request of anyone with the cab lights that are factory installed. The directions and template are very brief and as such I cannot determine the distance from the edge of the cab to the first clearance lamp on either side. The template has an arrow and line but does not say if the line is at the windshield edge or the metal edge. If someone would give me that measurement it would help me get these installed correctly. Thanks ahead of time. I will still be pulling stuff off a new truck in the meantime. I feel like a car thief. Stripping a anew vehicle. Just something wrong with that.

Mike
 
Mike,

Measuring from the upper edge of the windshield glass to the very leading edge of the rubber gasket at the base of the clearance lamps, I get the following:

Two outer clearance lamps = 5.5"
Three center clearance lamps = 3.5"

I didn't realize it until I looked closely and stuck a measuring tape up there, but for some reason the three center clearance lamps are closer to the windshield than the outer two.

Note that these measurements were taken running inline with the clearance lamp and the truck body (i.e.: running exactly fore and aft) and are not necessarily the shortest dimension from the edge of the windshield glass to the clearance lamp gasket.

Let me know if you need any pictures to make things clearer.

Regards,

John L.
 
I have the headliner down and it looks like the center light is very close to a lip in the bulkhead. I believe the rest of the lights will be in an open field on the rooftop. I have a little concern that the lip may interfere with the light placement but if the distance of the light/template moves back to the rear 1/2 inch to an inch, it would also be in the clear. Don't want to get these too far back as I plan to put a camper on board. Sure could use the factory measurement from someone so I think I will ask that in a new post.
 
I feel pretty good about mine! I purchased a set of Recon LED clearance lights and a friend of mine installed them for FREE!!!! Being the nice guy that I am! I took his 2013 Chevy 2500 gas burner and had his windows tinted. He did a great job! They look great!
I was happy and he was happy!
 
Essy.....Your middle name must be lucky. I have been struggling with this for two days and I have at least another day to go. Got the holes drilled and the cheap molly nylon fittings installed. Some would turn when tightening the screws so I had to glue them and let it set overnight. Will try again tomorrow. BTW, the holes are 1/4 inch for the screws and 7/8 inch for the bulbs. And the center one is a son of a gun to reach with or without a ladder. The instructions had a comical little picture of the tools needed. Drill, two sizes of bits, torx driver, phillips driver and a 10mm socket. Of course this is only for the lights and I still do not know what the 10mm was for. But I can tell you I had way more tools out due to the headliner drop. And the wife is beginning to hide from me. Can't imagine why. I only asked for help a few times. Fortunately I have one of the variable size drill bits to take the hole from 1/2 to 7/8. The thin metal, with no backing, just tears if you try to use regular bits.

I hooked up the lights direct to the battery and they all work but now I have to determine where to connect to the harness. According to the directions, you locate the BCM, I believe it's a module located near the E-Brake, and connect into the L77 circuit, cavity 4, the wht/br wire. A picture is given of the L77 board but when looking under the dash, I do not see anything like that. So, to John L. or anyone with a manual and a kind heart, can you tell me where that module is located and can anything bigger than a pack rat get into it? There is a wht.br wire going into a module that is turned sideways near the bottom of the firewall but has an odd rocker mechanism on it as well. A little leery of disconnecting that without knowing that is where I should be and it does not look like the picture that came with the lights. There is another picture that shows a large module with four multiple plugins at the top, two in the middle and one at the bottom right. Then it has an arrow pointing to C1 (A Connector). By the picture you would think these are below the dash height.

Mike out...I'm tired....
 
Mike,

From the removal instructions in the factory service manual, the BCM is located on the driver's side kick panel under the parking brake pedal assembly. To remove the BCM, they have you remove the plastic cowl panel, parking brake release access panel, parking brake release rod, and finally loosen and lay the parking brake assembly aside.

The BCM looks like this:

GUID-081172305.jpg

1 Fasteners
2 Power Connections
3 Underhood Connections
4 Body Connections
5 Instrument Panel Connection​


Hope that helps,

John L.

GUID-081172305.jpg
 
That is the exact picture John. The arrow is pointing to No 3 in the picture and then there is a blow up of the module. If I find a wht/br wire in there then I know I am in the right place. I imagine there is a closer/easier place to connect where the lights would be on with the switch but with the electronics in this vehicle I think I will try to go with the directions. You're the man. Thanks so much for helping me with this. Working at the local history center today so will get back to this late in the day and update progress. Should be able to start putting everything back together except for the wiring. Already have the wire running down behind the grab bar and side air bag. I'll have to trick the wife into helping with the headliner and/or promise her a candle light dinner. Or jewelry. Need to make some points.

This would have been much easier time wise be having a helper to pass tools, etc. I spent more time walking around the truck and moving ladders than doing the work. Then of course I dropped some of the small stuff along the way and it always rolls into no man's land. I don't know when Ram changed the battery connections but it requires two different metric sockets to disconnect the nuts and of course one of them dropped from my cold fingers beside the battery inside the box, and then under the battery. Had to get a magnet to get it out or pull the battery. Later, one of the nylon molys for the clearance light screws rolled down the windshield, off the cowl, and into the engine compartment. Did not see it happen so after 20 minutes of searching, I looked into the space beside the battery and yup....there it was next to the battery. Had it rolled under I would have been looking for a substitute. Thought you and others might like to here more back yard mechanic tales. Makes for good bar talk. Hic...My hats off to you pros out there.

Mike
 
John...Once I got under the dash armed with your information I find that the module in your picture is actually located on the upper left firewall. Another module is located next to the parking brake and looks similar but not the same as the second picture in my instructions. It is above a black box, and has a WT/BR wire in the bottom position labeled the L77 circuit in cavity 4. It is a small wire, probably 16-18 gauge. I plan today to connect the power and test light the wire to determine if the wire has power when the lights are turned on. It indeed would require the parking brake to be removed to work on it but I can probe the wire without removal. My question for you is where are you getting your information? Do you have a manual or is it available on line? I want to be certain that I connect to the correct wire to avoid problems with the canbus system. The light switch is much more accessible but a wiring loom would need to be unwrapped and it may not be correct anyway.

In the meantime I can start putting the rest of truck back together. The molys did not hold with the first silicone attempt so I mixed up some epoxy and that is holding them in place. Next I will silicone around the holes to seal them before putting the headliner back up. Just a little insurance even though I sealed around the inside of the lens gasket on top. I feel this is something the manufacturer would not have done and this might prevent future leak problems into the cab. Probably the only advantage to having done this myself.

Mike
 
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