6 Month Oil change??

[AnOldBiker]

I'm sorry, but I have to ask, Is there any vehicle not expensive to maintain ?
My friend has a Mercedes gasser as a family car and I was shocked at the price he paid having it tuned up.
I'll stay with my cummins.

 

[JR]

On the subject of Fleetguard filters, what is the difference between the two oil filters that Genos offers? They list the LF16035 for '89-'14 trucks and the LF3894 for the 98.5-02. They are both listed as Stratopore filters. What is it about the LF3894 that is unique to the 98.5-02 engines?

 

[AlFischer]

I'm sorry, but I have to ask, Is there any vehicle not expensive to maintain ?
My friend has a Mercedes gasser as a family car and I was shocked at the price he paid having it tuned up.
I'll stay with my cummins.

While NO vehicle is cheap to maintain it looks like my 2014 will cost 3 or 4 times what it cost to maintain my 2001. Example, if I remember a fuel filter was about $15 and I changed it acording to the fuel pressure gauge. They came out slightly greyed after 2 years. Now two filters a year from Genos $111 plus shipping. Thats pricey. And what someone posted the dealer cost to do it was exorbitant.

 

[AlFischer]

On the subject of Fleetguard filters, what is the difference between the two oil filters that Genos offers? They list the LF16035 for '89-'14 trucks and the LF3894 for the 98.5-02. They are both listed as Stratopore filters. What is it about the LF3894 that is unique to the 98.5-02 engines?

Good info from Cummins
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=...g4GQBA&usg=AFQjCNHs98axxJcH6z8XscdXZN-IYJmw8Q

 

[mwilson]

On the subject of Fleetguard filters, what is the difference between the two oil filters that Genos offers? They list the LF16035 for '89-'14 trucks and the LF3894 for the 98.5-02. They are both listed as Stratopore filters. What is it about the LF3894 that is unique to the 98.5-02 engines?

Fleetguard official response to the difference in the filters from a while back...

"The LF3894 and the LF16035 is the same filter except the shell on the LF3894 is round and the shell on the LF16035 is fluted.
Both of these filters have been designed for the Cummins ISB engines."

It started as I recall with the '03 and up going to the fluted (LF16035) filter so that a certain style of filter wrench could be used from underneath.

Looking at my Fleetguard Quick Reference the LF3894 shows fitment from '98 to '00. I think all concerned decided the LF16035 would be a perfect filter for all years of the "B" series RAM applications.

I use the LF16035 on both trucks, the '97 and the '06.

Mike.

 

[Too Tall]

While NO vehicle is cheap to maintain it looks like my 2014 will cost 3 or 4 times what it cost to maintain my 2001. Example, if I remember a fuel filter was about $15 and I changed it acording to the fuel pressure gauge. They came out slightly greyed after 2 years. Now two filters a year from Genos $111 plus shipping. Thats pricey. And what someone posted the dealer cost to do it was exorbitant.

Agree, somebody is making a fortune off those filters. I used to buy them by the case (spin on engine mounted) for $8 dollars each.

 

[JR]

Good info there. Thanks for the explanation.

 

[Cummins12V98]

IMHO the filters from GENO's are cheap but are the best you can buy. Filtration requirements for the fuel system have changed over the years and it does cost more to make a better filtering filter. Trucks used to be 30K now they area 60K.

Cummins is the least expensive to maintain!

 

[Doubleclutch]

The technology to filter out 4 micron gunk out of fuel to protect those pricey little fuel injectors doesn't come cheap. Filters are the cheapest insurance policy you can buy, next is the oil in the crankcase.
Don't like the idea of throwing out "perfectly good oil" at 6 months? Think of it this way. You could do the "prepper" thing and buy a big box of dehydrated emergency food packages that would feed a family of 5 for 120 weeks, and store it in your RV, waiting for the big one. Then have your 16 year old grandson come live with you for 6 months. Either way, at the end of 6 months, the food will need to be replaced, either through consumption or degradation... <G> The degradation path doesn't involve wear and tear on the trailer, beer bottles and party detritus, much like driving your truck for the 15000 miles that would otherwise be added to the odometer during the 6 months time period. Giggles and grins, but I think I'll do the 6 month oil changes if I can't do the mileage.

 

[Too Tall]

Personal opinion, It's a humidity/ water condensation contamination issue and probably fuel dilution as well. Water emulsifies oil and whips it up into a chocolate shake. If you run your truck often enough to burn off the water and limit fuel dilution by keeping the engine at temp, it's not a problem. It's not as important in a gas engine with 4 quarts of oil because they heat up so fast. My dealer says, "don't worry about the 6 month thing, just go by the EVIC" Probably, a little common sense is the best solution.

 

[AlFischer]

Personal opinion, It's a humidity/ water condensation contamination issue and probably fuel dilution as well. Water emulsifies oil and whips it up into a chocolate shake. If you run your truck often enough to burn off the water and limit fuel dilution by keeping the engine at temp, it's not a problem. It's not as important in a gas engine with 4 quarts of oil because they heat up so fast. My dealer says, "don't worry about the 6 month thing, just go by the EVIC" Probably, a little common sense is the best solution.

Well, I live in Central California and humidity is pretty low. Also, my driving pattern is at least 20-30 miles for the shortest trip. The norm os 100+ towing 10K. So I doubt the condensation issue applies in my case. If I was on the East Coast if most certainly could factor in. I left NJ 55 years ago and don't plan on returning!!

 

[Ram4Sam]

Personal opinion, It's a humidity/ water condensation contamination issue and probably fuel dilution as well. Water emulsifies oil and whips it up into a chocolate shake. If you run your truck often enough to burn off the water and limit fuel dilution by keeping the engine at temp, it's not a problem. It's not as important in a gas engine with 4 quarts of oil because they heat up so fast. My dealer says, "don't worry about the 6 month thing, just go by the EVIC" Probably, a little common sense is the best solution.

Sending in an oil sample to blackstone or a similar lab will tell you everything you need to know......

Sam

 

[AlFischer]

Sending in an oil sample to blackstone or a similar lab will tell you everything you need to know......

Sam

Of cpurse common sense is the most uncommon commodity on the planet!

I just ordereed the kit from Blackstone. Will do the test in 6 months and post the results. Look like this is probably the best solution. This will take me through winter when we MAY actually have a little rain and it does get foggy here so humidity will come into play.

 

[Too Tall]

One of the bypass filter makers puts a small valve at the filter for taking samples. They say samples should be taken with the engine running? I don't think most people can do this?

 

[AlFischer]

One of the bypass filter makers puts a small valve at the filter for taking samples. They say samples should be taken with the engine running? I don't think most people can do this?

Not on a Cummins! I suppose you could stick a piece of flecible tube down the dipstick tube and suck. If I get the sample jar soon I am going to use some of what I drained into a pan and then poured into the empty oil jug. Should be same as what came out.

 

[RustyJC]

In general terms, oil samples should not be taken at any static, dead-end location that can enable solids to accumulate as these will contaminate the sample. Analysis firms will recommend that samples be taken from a flowing location (reference the valve mentioned above) and that oil flow through the valve be permitted for sufficient time to flush out any debris that might have been trapped in the valve.

If no such flowing location is available, taking a sample through the dipstick tube (as long as the end of the tube is in the midst of the oil in the sump, not near the bottom of the sump) would be much better than taking a sample from the drain plug in the oil pan where trash could be sitting on the inside bottom of the pan and/or behind the drain plug.

Rusty

 

[AlFischer]

In general terms, oil samples should not be taken at any static, dead-end location that can enable solids to accumulate as these will contaminate the sample. Analysis firms will recommend that samples be taken from a flowing location (reference the valve mentioned above) and that oil flow through the valve be permitted for sufficient time to flush out any debris that might have been trapped in the valve.

If no such flowing location is available, taking a sample through the dipstick tube (as long as the end of the tube is in the midst of the oil in the sump, not near the bottom of the sump) would be much better than taking a sample from the drain plug in the oil pan where trash could be sitting on the inside bottom of the pan and/or behind the drain plug.

Rusty

So, how do you suggest that a valid sample be taken. Right now I have 3 jugs of used oil drained from my truck about a week ago. Would some of this be acceptable? Where and how do you suggest I take my next sample. I don't see any place to install a test drain valve. The dipstick tube is pretty small and curves around.

 

[RustyJC]

I would refer you to the following article - Sampling Procedures Build Solid Foundation for Oil Analysis Success. There are some other good links off that page as well.

Rusty

 

[Ram4Sam]

As new as your truck is, an oil test done now will come back horrible......the metal numbers will be high because of break in wear, other numbers will be wacked out because of assembly lubes, sealants, etc.

Sam

 

[AlFischer]

I would refer you to the following article - Sampling Procedures Build Solid Foundation for Oil Analysis Success. There are some other good links off that page as well.

Rusty

Definitely interesting info, but let's get down to real world sampling of a current DC oil system. Before and after the filter? Probably not. From the drain plug? Seems to be NOT a good place. Install a valve? Where? (a definite probability)

Bottom line, where are the knowledgeable folks on this forum taking samples and how? I relly don't want to reinvent a wheel that may wobble!