6 Month Oil change??

[AlFischer]

I've never had any problems. I do have smaller tubing for my other vehicles but it is a non issue and what it is designed to do

I just ran a length of 1/4" Tygon tubing down the dipstick and it won't go all the way in. There must be a restriction about 2 inches before the end. Tygon was left over from an air bag install on my 2001.

 

[AlFischer]

I change the oil in my 2012 when the EVIC gives the change oil soon message. I see 9-10,000 miles a year. I see it as cheap insurance.

That is basically what I am planning to do UNLESS the oil sampling shows otherwise. I really find the 6 month issue to be rediculous!

 

[RustyJC]

That is basically what I am planning to do UNLESS the oil sampling shows otherwise. I really find the 6 month issue to be ridiculous!

I guess I don't understand the rationale of opening potential problems in the unlikely event of an in-warranty engine failure because of failure to adhere to the manufacturer's maintenance schedule. To me, it's a risk/reward equation, and the money to be saved in oil changes wouldn't remotely approach the cost of replacing an engine should FiatChrysler attribute a failure to improper maintenance. After it's out of warranty, of course, have at it as you see fit.

Just my thoughts.....

Rusty

 

[AlFischer]

I guess I don't understand the rationale of opening potential problems in the unlikely event of an in-warranty engine failure because of failure to adhere to the manufacturer's maintenance schedule. To me, it's a risk/reward equation, and the money to be saved in oil changes wouldn't remotely approach the cost of replacing an engine should FiatChrysler attribute a failure to improper maintenance. After it's out of warranty, of course, have at it as you see fit.

Just my thoughts.....

Rusty

I believe that if oil sampling and proper testing showed otherwise that they would have a hard time proving that changing according to the EVIC caused a problem.

I had an issue witha Toyota dealer and they lost because I took them to the BAR. Remember, I am in California, land of LAWs no MEN!

 

[RustyJC]

Since they wrote the warranty, you may well find that the burden of proof is really on you to show that intentional, wilful noncompliance with the manufacturer's maintenance requirements did NOT cause the problem, but if that's the route you want to take, it's certainly your money and your choice....

Good luck.

Rusty

 

[JR]

I just ran a length of 1/4" Tygon tubing down the dipstick and it won't go all the way in. There must be a restriction about 2 inches before the end. Tygon was left over from an air bag install on my 2001.

All I can tell you is the supplied tubing they sent with the kit slid right down into the oil pan on my 98. I did have problems with my VW TDI and Mountaineer but I was able to make another section of tubing I had laying around with a slightly smaller OD work. I now use that tubing on all my vehicles. The end of the vac pump has a packing gland that you can tighten down to seal around the OD of the tube so you are not limited to the size they send you.

It is a little more work than a drain valve (have one on the VW) due to the clean up of the hose after the sample but I prefer to spend a few extra minutes topside and draw into the container that I will be sending in to be analayzed than buy a drain valve for each vehicle I sample. The real benefit to this is I can draw a sample from anything I want or may have a concern with, whether it be the diff on the truck or the trans on the Mountaineer or the VW or the gear box on my Can Am or Honda, etc etc etc. without making a mess Or having to open up any covers or disturb any gaskets. If I can snake the tube down in there, I can draw a sample.

 

[AlFischer]

I understand that topside DRAING is not uncommon on the Passat TDI. Something to do with a plate under the engine. I havn't managed to crawl under my 2014 Pasat yet. Too busy on the RAM and out TT and traveling for enjoyment.

I do like the idea of extracting a sample from on top and will be ordering the kit. Looks good. Just going to have to fine a smaller OD tubing. I probable will try to cut the end of the ztygon at an angle antry again.

 

[Too Tall]

You could install a 1/4" npt valve on the filter housing and take the sample with the engine running. You can install it without removing the turbo intake. On another note, anyone know why Blackstone is not reporting soot levels? Most of the oil samplers I've seen are now showing soot level %.

 

[AlFischer]

What does the amount of soot indicate?

 

[Kirwin]

I'm with Rusty on this one. Ram says you must maintain the vehicle to maintain warranty coverage. If you willfully chose to do something else and then say "well all my oil samples said I didn't need to change the oil yet", you are admitting (in a court of law if required) that you failed to maintain the vehicle in accordance with the manufactures maintenance schedule. It's their warranty, you failed to abide by the terms they specifed for their warranty. You have now become your own warranty station. I don't think that you could win this if it ever went to court. They spend alot on layers. How deep is you bank account to defend your intentional action not to maintain your Ram supplied warranty coverage? You are really banking on that the engine designer and the oil manufacturers build a product that will not allow an oil related failure to occur, thus you will never have this issue which you are going to back up with routine sampling. I agree with this part. I bet the instances of an oil related issue with modern engines in infinitesimally small. Engines and oil are a highly refined products and oil related failures that are not caused by lack of maintennace (like installing a K & N air filter) are very rare. My $0.02 Ken Irwin

Since they wrote the warranty, you may well find that the burden of proof is really on you to show that intentional, wilful noncompliance with the manufacturer's maintenance requirements did NOT cause the problem, but if that's the route you want to take, it's certainly your money and your choice....

Good luck.

Rusty

 

[JR]

You could install a 1/4" npt valve on the filter housing and take the sample with the engine running. You can install it without removing the turbo intake. On another note, anyone know why Blackstone is not reporting soot levels? Most of the oil samplers I've seen are now showing soot level %.

Any soot in the oil would show up as an insoluable which they do test for. Another indication of soot could be from increased viscosity.

 

[gsbrockman]

I'm with Rusty on this one. Ram says you must maintain the vehicle to maintain warranty coverage. If you willfully chose to do something else and then say "well all my oil samples said I didn't need to change the oil yet", you are admitting (in a court of law if required) that you failed to maintain the vehicle in accordance with the manufactures maintenance schedule. It's their warranty, you failed to abide by the terms they specifed for their warranty. You have now become your own warranty station. My $0.02 Ken Irwin

Three gallons of 15W40 Rotella-T @ $12.77 each = $38.31
One MOPAR MO285 Oil Filter $13.47
Grand Total before sales tax : $51.78

Blackstone Oil Analysis + TBN = $30.00 ..............no brainer for me....while it's under warranty

 

[Too Tall]

Any soot in the oil would show up as an insoluable which they do test for. Another indication of soot could be from increased viscosity.

Thanks JR.

 

[Ram4Sam]

I don't know if they still do but Blackstone used to give TDR members a discount.........

Sam

 

[Too Tall]

What does the amount of soot indicate?

The newer engines with EGR run much higher soot levels than pre egr. Like 3% or more compared to 1% on the older engines. Which is what the CJ 4 rating is about. It's suppose to keeps the high soot levels from clumping and causing damage since soot is very abrasive. As long as it's in suspension and small sizes, the idea is it'll stay in suspension and not get big enough to damage bearings etc..

 

[Dutch & Di]

We have the same feelings you do and I'm sure Ram is making sure, unless you want to VOID your warranty that you spend your money unnecessarily.
The reasons for feeling we shouldn't have to go through this are just my feelings but I sure would like to know why RAM feels Cummins is wrong.
We were going through all of our "buttons" for the different functions on our truck.
Under Fuel Filter section; it states we have 6% filter life left and it will be changed tomorrow.
Under the Oil Life section; it states we have 44% of our "Oil Life" left and have gone 8,507 miles since our last oil change. To me that means it is not ready for an oil change.
I do understand that the manual states 6 months or 15,000 miles but to me this algorithm is meant to take into account how you drive, whether towing or not and things like that to determine when you actually should change your oil.
In Issue #84 dated May June & July on page 67 we were reading an article by Jim Anderson.
The question was: Some owners have called wishing to know if the initial fill of engine oil should be run for a full oil change interval, or should it be changed early.
Answer: Cummins recommends using the oil for a full oil change interval. The computer EVIC display will tell you when it is time for an oil change based on driving conditions.
So I guess unless RAM decides to step up or Cummins offers us a way to use their recommendation, we are going to have to go the 6 months [which is unreasonable and causing us to double our oil change costs]. Hugs, Di

I have trouble understanding the need for an oil change every 6 months regardless of usage. The may be times when I hardly drive my truck. Maybe 2-3k in 6 months. Hardly ever used on short runs and minimum in town driving. We live 20 miles from the nearest quart of milk! I don't think oil wears out or becomes contaminated just sitting. Part of the cost of this truck was the EVIC which shows oil and filter life.

Will someone that understands WHY explain why not to follow the EVIC??

 

[JR]

The newer engines with EGR run much higher soot levels than pre egr. Like 3% or more compared to 1% on the older engines. Which is what the CJ 4 rating is about. It's suppose to keeps the high soot levels from clumping and causing damage since soot is very abrasive. As long as it's in suspension and small sizes, the idea is it'll stay in suspension and not get big enough to damage bearings etc..

The fact that Cummins is now recommending 15k mile intervals suggests these engines are running as clean or cleaner than any previous configuration...of course I'm sure the flip side to this argument especially with old trucks and shorter service intervals like mine is the oil technology has greatly improved in the last 15 years which also plays a big part in the recommendation. It would be interesting to see an analysis on a DEF engine on an extended service interval.

 

[jacknife]

The newer engines with DEF run much less EGR which is why the oil will stay cleaner longer.

 

[Loren]

Do you think if a new truck sits on the dealers longer than six months they send it to service to get the oil changed??

I think we all know the answer to terb's question. if you buy a truck that was manufactured over six months ago do you insist on an oil change before you accept it?

It may not explain the "Why" that Al was seeking, but it sure makes it clear whether it REALLY needs to be changed or not.

When the dealers start changing oil at six-month intervals, then we'll know that it really is required.

-- Loren

 

[Newsa]

I can see the need with my druving style. I use it as a daily driver and go only 6 miles to work. The truck only reaches operating temps as I arrive to work.

6 month oil change us probably needed to prevent oil dilution.

However, since I am a teacher and don't work during the summer, there is probably minimal.oild dilutuon during summer months.
And last summer, we took a 2 week 2500 mile trip pulling a 5000 lb trailer through the smokies..