AC Compressor failure

[RVTRKN]

I was warming up my truck today, when a horrible grinding and belt slipping sounded. Without shutting it off, I quickly opened the hood, but the noise had stopped and smoke was rising over the AC compressor. I shut it off, and didn't see any evidence of burning, but I suspected the AC clutch coil was fried. I restarted the truck and the AC compressor clutch wouldn't engage, I assume the compressor locked up.

What are my options, as far as costs regarding DIY vrs Shop/dealer repairs? Who's got the best compressors for sale, I'll assume the dealers are double the costs.

 

[Bob4x4]

I can't comment on who has the best,but I see very few failures on your year from the factory installed or the oem Reman unit.You should have no problem replacing it your self

 

[RVTRKN]

Can you get me a flow chart of the refrigerant, for example, location of filters, driers and high/low pressure senors. Normally I would change the drier on a regular AC system, but it is a filter/drier combination that you replace. The automotive circuit is a little different, there should be a screen mesh filter before the refrigerant control (orifice) then the drier would be housed in the accumulator for autos, or at least that's the way it was for my 94 2500 gasser.

 

[Bob4x4]

IIrc the orifice is located in the rear liquid line and there are no filters before the tube .Replacing the accumulator is a good idea,

 

[PWong]

Make sure the rest of the system was flushed thoroughly clean before installing the new orifice tube, dryer and compressor.
Otherwise expect to redo everything soon.

 

[PWong]

If the truck was 06 and up expect TIPM circuit protection operated and needs reset.

 

[RVTRKN]

Do they sell kits that come as a package deal? I'll start a search, but if somebody is aware of one please post it.
PWong, it is my 07 C&C in sig.

 

[Tuesdak]

See if you can spin the compressor by hand or with a tool. It may just be a bad clutch.

Then assuming it locked up you need to discharge the system with recovery equipment. A shop will do this for you for a small fee. Next figure out if the compressor dumped a bunch of debris in the system. If so replace the condenser as you can't flush it out very well period. Replace the orface tube or orface tube line and accumulator. (orface tubes may be integrated into the line.) Flush the evaporator and hoses. Replace compressor with proper amount of oil added.

Get the genuine Sanden compressor that costs more. Plenty of knock off Made in Communist China compressors out there that will quickly dump more metal in your system as they Cumapart ruining the condenser and other above parts.

 

[RVTRKN]

I haven't gotten in to it yet, but when I do I'll be checking just that. The compressor may not be damaged, as I said the sound and smell may have been the AC clutch coil shorting with it engaging and disengaging at a rapid rate. As far as recovery, I own all the tools to do the repair as I'm an AC tech and own them all. But Auto AC's are worlds apart from what I work on daily. My suspicion on the locked compressor is valid, but when I start, if I elect to do it myself, that's the first thing I'll check. I'll flush the condenser, and it will be flushed with lots of R11e that I would normally use to flush out 50' line sets with

 

[Motorhead]

I am assuming that the failure is on the '07, 6.7. I have an '07, 5.9 and my AC compressor froze up on mine too and it was not caused from a lack of refrigerant/oil. My understanding with at least the 2007 trucks is that the compressor is at the lowest point in the system and when sitting for a day or so can become hydro locked with liquid refrigerant. When the compressor is activated for the first time to be used, I used to hear my accessory belt sound like it was slipping/grumbling for just a second or two when the A/C compressor was kicked on. My compressor gradually got noisy then one day it seized then a bit later it worked. I stopped using the A/C and rebuilt my system.
I found the O.E.compressor in the after market. I bought a new receiver drier and orifice tube from the dealer. I flushed the evaporator, condenser and remaining refrigerant lines. I emptied the NEW compressor of its oil and used the specified amount. I put about 50% of the oil back into the compressor, 30% into the receiver drier and 10% into the evaporator and the remaining 10% into the condenser. I HAND rotated the compressor, not just the free clutch, for several revolutions before putting the belt on. I switched to Duracool refrigerant and not Freon R134.
If you DON'T clean the system COMPLETELY, you will have another compressor failure.

 

[PWong]

I put about 50% of the oil back into the compressor, 20% into the receiver drier and 10% into the evaporator and the remaining 10% into the condenser.

The number didn't add up. LOL

 

[Motorhead]

The number didn't add up. LOL

Yeah... You are right , kinda LATE when I wrote it up.....

 

[PWong]

the compressor is at the lowest point in the system and when sitting for a day or so can become hydro locked with liquid refrigerant.
I switched to Duracool refrigerant and not Freon R134.

Any reason for switching over the refrigerant?
Would it help the "hydro lock" issue?

 

[Motorhead]

The Duracool is a more efficient refrigerant. It is a hydrocarbon based refrigerant.

 

[Tuesdak]

The modern parallel flow R134A automotive condensers are different than the old R12 tube and fin units. (The tube and fin R12 is like a line set and is easily flushed.) Many toothpick sized tubes in the parallel flow R134A condenser that won't flush, stay clogged, and will dump debris into a new compressor. the R134a parallel flow condenser is literally the 1st filter in the system.

The AC in my 2003 Dodge is cold enough on R134a. Not saying there isn't any other benefits to switching. Alternative refrigerants you may as well get the coldest if you are going down that road and that would be the envirosafe Industrial. I have seen it work better than R12 with GM's R4 POS compressor and undersized AC systems on their early 90's trucks/SUV's. It will remind you of the A6 on R12 where it could snow out the vents literally. It will not stop the slugging, hydro lock, problem.

http://www.es-refrigerants.com/prod...6-ounce-can-equivalent-16-oz-134a/details.asp

The hydro lock issue is better known on other makes like the GM 5.3 V8 where is blows the compressor clean in half, tears the AC tensioner off the engine, and other sudden and final failures. The root cause is the AC compressor being mounted low on the engine.
Mentioned here with a cure, but, none specific to our trucks so it would have to be adapted:
https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/252241-AC-Compressor-Deslugger

http://www.4s.com/en/marketing/-psp-solutions/the-deslugger/#_marketing_

 

[Motorhead]

The DURACOOL R134a equivalent stopped the "Slugging" as it is like the envirosafe you listed in that 6oz equals 16 oz of freon. It doesn't pool. The fix for guys that wanted to run regular 134A Freon and not have the slugging issue was to infiltrate the return linr to the compressor at a place just before the compressor and add in a small aluminum catch reservoir so that any liquid would collect in it rather than go into the compressor as a liquid. As the compressor started, the liquid would turn into a gas as the LOW side pressure dropped. Remember, when the system is NOT running, BOTH the high side and the low side are equal pressures.

 

[RVTRKN]

Update! Now that I have the day off because of a Rookie tech, (another thread) I looked at the clutch pack and pulley. The clutch turns the compressor with the engine off and clutch disengaged. Loosened up the belt and turned the pulley only, already know it spins but just doing my troubleshooting. My observation tells me that the clutch must have failed only, and the clutch pack has a heavy oil residue on it and one of the rubber isolators is missing. A question for you guys in the know, does the clutch pack have oil in it like the older clutch fans do? Unfortunately my gauges are in my work truck, again another thread.

 

[Motorhead]

The oil residue on the AC compressor clutch is from the front seal failure on the AC compressor. The oil is AC compressor oil. Loss of oil in the compressor causes it to seize. As to why both at the same time, I can't tell you other than the same event happened on my 2007, 5.9. That's when I did my AC rebuild. I can't remember where I bought my replacement compressor from but I bought TWO and one is sitting on the shelf.

 

[Tuesdak]

I would triple check that there isn't an oil leak dropping oil on the compressor clutch. Otherwise the oil is from the shaft seal on the compressor. They do leak a little by design, but should not be a massive leak oiling the clutch up.

It's possible to replace the compressor shaft seal. Not worth the trouble and risk of another failure say if the front bearing caused the seal failure. Add cost of the ruined clutch and not much more for a new compressor.

IMO if the system is free of debris: Replace compressor with a genuine Sanden, Replace the orface tube (or orface tube line) and accumulator, and flush system. Also due to possible heat from the slipping clutch replace the overheated/burned belt just to be sure.

Probably already know this but the AC system running hot, overheating, from a bad fan clutch or debris plugged stack is the #1 cause of compressor failure. If the fan clutch is covered in it's own blood it's done...

 

[RVTRKN]

I was looking at rock auto and they have a kit, http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5537898&cc=1433805&jnid=393&jpid=1 with a condenser separate, http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=3611025&cc=1433805&jnid=394&jpid=2 for a total of around $364.00. Anyone have any trouble with Rock Auto?