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ECM may have died

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Go with the 6.7 or keep the 5.9?

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On my 2007.5. This morning I started the truck and drove it into my back yard to air up the tires. It started as normal. I shut it off for awhile and when I restarted it cranked a little longer than normal. I didn't wait for some of the dash lights to go off as I normally do (it has cranked a little longer many times when I get in to big a hurry). It did start ok and ran good. I drove it across the yard to hook onto my 5th wheel. I backed and hooked up leaving it idling. Just as I started letting the trailer down on the truck it died and wouldn't restart (on crank). I got out my smarty tuner to check for codes and it wouldn't connect. So I got out a cheap reader and said there were no codes. I tried again with the smarty and got the same can fault and it couldn't connect. I called Mads and talked to one of their techs, he had me hook up the smarty and he had me push certain buttons while plugging it in. He got it to connect but when we would try to update the ecm it would say "VIN locked". He was able with other buttons to pull up the VIN and ECM software data. His programmers wrote a VIN specific restore software for the ECM (as the existing Smarty software wouldn't restore. He helped me download the new software into the Smarty and plug into the truck. It would come up with ECM error and stop the reprogramming. We tried 2 more times after unhooking the batteries for 30 minutes with the key on and no luck. Apparently the ECM got corrupted and has failed. He said the 2007.5 6.7 ECM's have had problems. 2008 and on seem to be stable. Now to find a place other than a dealer that can look at my truck and scan the ECM. And then find an ECM that doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
 
I have been thinking about when this happened. It was right after I plugged the trailer connector into the truck with the engine still running. Also I still had AC power plugged into the trailer. Could an AC spike came down the line when I plugged it in and corrupted the ECM program? Also could a DC spike from the trailers inverter/charger have done the same thing?
 
I have been thinking about when this happened. It was right after I plugged the trailer connector into the truck with the engine still running. Also I still had AC power plugged into the trailer. Could an AC spike came down the line when I plugged it in and corrupted the ECM program? Also could a DC spike from the trailers inverter/charger have done the same thing?

I think that is a very possible scenario...the different computer modules, including the ECM, on these trucks are extremely sensitive to voltage and/or current spikes.

That being said, I would FIRST check and clean the main ECM harness connectors BEFORE buying another ECM simply in order to rule a bad connectrion as the source for the no bus code. I have read more then a few threads in which the main coinnector was loose, dirty or damaged somehow. Use de ox it to clean the connectors carefully and also inspect the harness on each side for damage. WARNING: be SURE to first remove both battery grounds before unplugging and pluggint in the ECM harness.
 
JDCROSS440. Something similar happened to me two weeks ago but not quite the same as yours.
After towing eight hours back home from a mountain trip and then unhooking to drive to the shop to
finish unloading, I hooked up the Banks Automind to download from tow tune to street tune when
the Automind stopped in the middle of the download with the message "lost communication with
ecm". All engine functions were dead and of course would not start. This was on a Saturday and
Banks was closed til Monday. The truck was parked outside between industrial buildings and so
I slept in the shop at nite until Monday. Called up Banks and told them I was stranded. They told
me to check the battery voltage. Reported back to them 12.4V. They asked me send the ECM in
to check. I jacked up the left front and removed the wheel and fender liner to get to it. I brought it
and the programmer to them in Azusa Tuesday afternoon. Banks overnighted the ECM and
the Automind to their software center in Florida. FEDEX dropped it off to me Thursday morning
back from Florida. I called Banks up to find out the scoop and they said the ECM was fine but
recorded a low 10V message. I immediately charged up both batteries for about an hour and
then plugged in the Automind and then started the download again. The download completed
and everything was just fine! I called Banks to thank them and asked
about my charges for the overnite and service and they said we were square. What a great
customer support! I feel like a dummy knowing that the Banks stuff had nothing to do with
this issue. It was me, the customer that didn't really address the battery voltage issue
thoroughly as suggested. I'm thinking that the long tow back home with a voltage drain from
the trailer may have left the truck batteries just below the threshold required to download.
Downloading takes about 45 minutes anyway from going to stock and then to the
tuning. The batteries are less than two years old and the truck starts and runs just fine.
Before the next tune change, I'm going to top off the batteries first.
I hope yours is just a simple case of low voltage.
Tom
 
Both my batteries are 6 month old. I was just getting ready to tow and had just connected power cord from trailer to truck. The truck was actually running when this happened. The trailer has dual batteries and both of them show full charge as I leave it plugged in to AC all the time to keep them charged and be able to run air conditioners, etc.

This afternoon I decided one more time to try the restore on the ECM using the program smarty downloaded on my tuner. This time it worked and went all the way through Now the truck starts and seems to run good. I drove it around the neighborhood and no problems other than codes for deleted EGR. I will get the tuner set back up and download the power programmer tomorrow.
 
I just got verdict from dealer. ECM is totally fried. They tried to blame it on smarty restore program of course. It was bad before the restore attempt. Said they have to pull all 6 injectors to get numbers off them to program into new ECM. I question that requirement but they have me over a barrel! $3500+tax. I hate computers in machinery where hostile enviroment will shorten there life and prone to power spikes.
 
Got the truck back Friday afternoon. It had the check engine light on, however I attributed that to the deletes running with the stock program. When I got home I reprogrammed the Smarty and plugged it in to read the codes. Sure enough there was codes for the EGR not being found. However there also was a code P268c for number 1 injector data incompatible. This code showing should never have left the dealer. Apparently the tech didn't put the code in correctly for that cylinder. Now I have to take it back at 7 am tomorrow. I didn't reinstall the smarty software, however I did reinstall all the deleted parts, until the dealer gets through with it, and all the codes except the injector one reset.
 
From reading other posts on new ECM installs, I decided to check my high idle and exhaust brake. Neither worked. When I dropped it off this morning the service writer tried to tell me "sometimes when they have had programmers installed these items don't work". I informed him they had always worked until the new ECM. He replied "oh, ok". This is a big dealer here. I have never really liked dealing with them. They are only 12 miles from my home. The next closest is 40 miles away, which I would have taken it to if it wasn't cost prohibitive for towing that far. I am going to get a good policy for towing (like coach-net or good sam's which allow 100 mi distance).
 
From reading other posts on new ECM installs, I decided to check my high idle and exhaust brake. Neither worked. When I dropped it off this morning the service writer tried to tell me "sometimes when they have had programmers installed these items don't work". I informed him they had always worked until the new ECM. He replied "oh, ok". This is a big dealer here. I have never really liked dealing with them. They are only 12 miles from my home. The next closest is 40 miles away, which I would have taken it to if it wasn't cost prohibitive for towing that far. I am going to get a good policy for towing (like coach-net or good sam's which allow 100 mi distance).
 
jdross,

See the post I had from earlier this year. My ECM died and I went through the same thing with the dealer, $3,100 later it was working again. I never used any kind of programmer, the only issue I had before it failed was my batteries died and I replace them. I did ask my dealer to give me the codes they programmed for the injectors so if I ever need to do this again I won't have to pay for that part of the repair again. I also thought about keeping the old ECM and sending it out to be refurbished. There are companies that will do it and then reprogram them for around $1,000 to $1,500. I ended up not bothering because if it happens again I'll probably get rid of the truck.

My truck died about 30 miles from home and my AAA premium coverage paid for the towing.

https://www.turbodieselregister.com/threads/254575-Engine-shut-down-now-not-able-to-start-any-ideas
 
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