Here I am

Rear axle seal replacement?

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Jones Junction, Belair, Md

New truck extended warranty

Status
Not open for further replies.
Anyone here replaced rear axle seals on their truck? My left rear is starting to seep out the bottom of the hub assembly. Just looking for info on repair procedure.

Had one guy tell me to start by blowing out the vent as it may be plugged and be causing the seep itself. Anyone heard of or witnessed this being the cause and working? (Sorry pic is upside down. Wet side is at the bottom of assembly on truck)

20161023_161801.jpg
 
Yes, a plugged vent can definitely cause seals to weep, but it looks like yours is weeping alot. In the big picture, it's not a terrible job. 121k on mine- still tight.
 
they are easy. should only take a buy 30 min.. if you have power tools even less.
you'll need the axle nut socket.. it's a rather large one. but other then that. yeah it's an easy job.
i would start by checking the vent operation.
240K on mine and still good.
 
No. Never admit that :eek::-laf

We don't know your experience.
You have a full floating rear axle. Bearings are set by tightening a large nut, similar to old style front wheels. The drive axle bolts on to the rear hub at the outside. There is axle lube in with the bearings hence the chance of a leak.
 
That's the thing. I went through auto school and I know I have a FF rear-end. I guess I've just never been deeper than brakes on a rear axle. That's why I called myself dumb lol.
 
Once you get the rotor off, it'll all be very clear. Just get the axle nut socket and the factory book/ disc first.
 
10-4. Is it same size as front nut @ 1-11/16" or is it different.

Also what's torque spec on the axle nut if anyone has it in their head
 
don't think it's a torque spec. it's feel how tight the bearing is. think old 70-80 chevy and ford front hubs.
here's a video for a chevy. our should be very similar.
 
I don't even know what the nut looks like on our hubs, but it's not an ordinary socket size. Usually a specialty tool from OTC or similar.
Properly setting bearing preload usually involves measuring end play or effort to turn said assembly.
 
Ohhhhhh ok yeah I remember those nuts n sockets now.

Anyway last night I checked vent tube, heap on end of tube and stuck a pic inside the axle tube. Will degrease back side of hub tonight and see what happens.
 
they are easy. should only take a buy 30 min.. if you have power tools even less.
you'll need the axle nut socket.. it's a rather large one. but other then that. yeah it's an easy job.
i would start by checking the vent operation.
240K on mine and still good.
BS on the half hour...........
 
bs nothing. i guess if it's your first time turning a wrench, or you have to search the shop for the correct socket, maybe take you longer, but i know i can get mine done in around 20-30 min with power tools. so 45-60 min for both sides.
 
bs nothing. i guess if it's your first time turning a wrench, or you have to search the shop for the correct socket, maybe take you longer, but i know i can get mine done in around 20-30 min with power tools. so 45-60 min for both sides.

:-laf:-laf....Gee Bob, maybe you should let ol' killer here know what you do for a living........and how long you've been at it........

Sam
 
Purple powered the back of the hub assembly tonight and got as much grease off as I could. Will watch it and see if it begins to seep again.

Like I said I checked tube, cap on tube and cleaned out hole from axle tube to vent tube. Unless cap is plugged vent system should be good to go.

If seeps again will know it's seal and not pressure within axle.
 
I've got some money burning a hole in my pocket. I'll give 3-1 odds it takes over 30 minutes for killer to do the job properly. Truck in the shop to truck out. Takers?
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top