Which Brake Pads?

[AH64ID]

I think it's time for new brake pads.

My OEM ones have 133K on them and still look good they just don't feel the same anymore, especially when cold. After they warm up they feel better but it feels like I'm using more pedal than I used to for an empty truck.

I have been happy with the OEM brakes, but I heard that Mopar doesn't sell the same pads that come on the assembly line. Any truth to that?

Mopar premium pads are what I am leaning towards.

 

[seafish]

Mopar PREMIUM pads ARE the ones that come on the truck from the factory, as opposed to the "value" line that the dealer parts counter normally stock and sell since they are cheaper to buy. You can find the premium pads for about $105 per axle at online dealerships or you can try to get your local dealer to come down to that.

Here are the part #'s for the PREMIUM pads for a 3rd gen truck--

05093267AA full set--FRONT Disc Brake Pads

05093257AA full set--REAR Disc Brake Pads

 

[Deleted member 995608]

I don't remember how many miles I got from my OE pads but it was over 100k miles. When I determined it was time to change, I bought the value pads and ran them for a few miles. I found myself back at the dealer soon thereafter buying the OE "premium" pads. I ran those pads until I sold the truck with roughly 300K miles.

 

[mwilson]

Another vote for the OEM "Premium Pads"....

That's what went right back on mine at 130,000 or so.....nothing aftermarket compares in my opinion.

 

[jgillott]

I have tried aftermarket pads from EBC, Duralast, etc and can never get more than 30K out of them. Mopar premium is your best bet for long life. Only one side note from my experience, the Mopar Premium pads really like a fresh smooth rotor surface. I made the mistake of slapping a set on our 04.5 in a rush once and really didn't like the results on the old rotors.

 

[AH64ID]

Looks like I'll buy some OEM Premiums.

Thanks guys

 

[seafish]

I have tried aftermarket pads from EBC, Duralast, etc and can never get more than 30K out of them. Mopar premium is your best bet for long life. Only one side note from my experience, the Mopar Premium pads really like a fresh smooth rotor surface. I made the mistake of slapping a set on our 04.5 in a rush once and really didn't like the results on the old rotors.

I don't know about that....at 100k the rotors on my 2005 were still true and only half worn when checked with a runout gauge and mic. All I did when replacing the pads was open the bleed screws BEFORE I pushed the caliper pistons in, remove and clean the calipers/parts and silicone the pins, installed the new pads, and also used a pressure bleeder to flush ALL the brake lines with new fluid. Since it was unnecessary, I did NOT surface the rotor and the truck has been stopping GREAT for over 30k since then. Of course, if rotors had been scored or burned, I would have turned them, but at least in my case it was not necessary.

 

[jgillott]

I don't know about that....at 100k the rotors on my 2005 were still true and only half worn when checked with a runout gauge and mic. All I did when replacing the pads was open the bleed screws BEFORE I pushed the caliper pistons in, remove and clean the calipers/parts and silicone the pins, installed the new pads, and also used a pressure bleeder to flush ALL the brake lines with new fluid. Since it was unnecessary, I did NOT surface the rotor and the truck has been stopping GREAT for over 30k since then. Of course, if rotors had been scored or burned, I would have turned them, but at least in my case it was not necessary.

Your rotors were in much better shape than mine were it sounds like.

 

[seafish]

Your rotors were in much better shape than mine were it sounds like.

Probably so...which is why I was suggesting that doing so is "rotor condition dependent" not "pad type dependent".

 

[MJWenrich]

Just to add to the conversation and experience, I purchased the Hawk brand pads from Genos and have been happy with them. They wear like the originals, at least so far, and no squeaks. Did not surface the rotors either. At the time I did not know about the OEM premiums. Would have looked for those had I known.

 

[jgillott]

Probably so...which is why I was suggesting that doing so is "rotor condition dependent" not "pad type dependent".

I'm confused. Aren't we saying the same thing?

 

[seafish]

I'm confused. Aren't we saying the same thing?

You ought to be confused....JK/LOL...somehow I misread your first statement and missed the part about "fresh , smooth rotor surface"...we are in fact saying the same thing and I am just repeating myself too much...sorry!!!

 

[jgillott]

You ought to be confused....JK/LOL...somehow I misread your first statement and missed the part about "fresh , smooth rotor surface"...we are in fact saying the same thing and I am just repeating myself too much...sorry!!!

Lol......no problem. Thanks for clarifying.

 

[Tuesdak]

If the rotors show any "hot spots" throw them away. The hot spots are cementite (iron carbide) and unless caught early are almost impossible to remove. 3000 miles later the 'turned rotors' come back for brake pulse... Grinding may work, but the turning tool the local auto parts stores have just bounce off it.

I use Wagner ThermoQuiet. They stop better than even the Best top of the line Autozone garbage that the PO had used. I have 40K on The Wagners since I did the front hub bearings, rotors and pads.

 

[Freebore]

Just to add to the conversation and experience, I purchased the Hawk brand pads from Genos and have been happy with them. They wear like the originals, at least so far, and no squeaks. Did not surface the rotors either. At the time I did not know about the OEM premiums. Would have looked for those had I known.

I went the same route with Hawks after the originals needed replacing. With very little warning, the rear rotors were ground to nothing at 16k miles. I was baffled along with Geno's & Hawk. Pad wear was even on both sides, just bery agressive. Fronts had hardly any wear. Replaced my rear rotors & pads all around with oem premium hardware including the premium pads and they perform great. Used Hawks in the past but never had this problem.

 

[Killer223]

AH64ID, are your pads glazed over? If there is lots of life left you might just try deglazing them. Sand or scuff the face of them.

 

[AH64ID]

AH64ID, are your pads glazed over? If there is lots of life left you might just try deglazing them. Sand or scuff the face of them.

That’s not a bad idea. Maybe I’ll do an inspection this weekend.

 

[KATOOM]

Another vote for OEM pads (or OEM replacement). My OEM front pads had 115k on them with almost 1/4" material left when I took them off. Actually I'm not sure why I replaced them other than I was that far into it with new ones sitting in a box so..... Either way, I replaced them with OEM replacements and they work great. I think brake pad discussions can get as overly heated as oil threads. :-laf

 

[AH64ID]

Well I had to put tires on the wifes rig today, and it NEEDS brakes too... verified myself. So with plenty of pad left on my truck and just a different feel I am hoping I can scuff them up and remove a glaze.

Honestly I have no idea where a glaze came from, if there is one. I have operated up to 23K GCW this last year but I use my EB and trailer brakes pretty hard and don't ever recall the truck having to work it's brakes hard enough to get them hot... but stranger things have happened.

Then again my pads are 13 years old and maybe they just want to retire.

 

[MartyK]

Another vote for the OEM Premium Pads.