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Going beyond 6 months

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I have been using the same strap wrench on all three RAM's starting in 1994 on the 93. Always from the top. Only time someone else changed the oil was on the 2001.5 and he screwed up the drain plug. Then I asked if he check that the oil filter gasket came off with the filter and he said yes. I said show me the oil filter! Guess what, no gasket! He comp'd the oil change after removing the filter and retrieving the "extra" gasket!

SnoKing

on my 16 about the only way to get that filter from the top is after removing the air intake piping. but they got that little cutout in the inner fendewell so I just do a reach around LOL.
 
on my 16 about the only way to get that filter from the top is after removing the air intake piping. but they got that little cutout in the inner fendewell so I just do a reach around LOL.

I can not remember much about the 93(most likely remove the air box to turbo air intake tubing like the 2001.5) two screw clamps. The 2015 takes a little more effort and time to remove the air intake, but that is my route. June will be the 6th oil change on the 2015.
 
Gotcha. I know what Genos cap to prevent oil from spilling looks like and am thinking of getting it. It sure would save a mess. The plastic bag thing doesn't work for me. I usually end up making a mess with it too. A smaller mess, but still a mess.

Anyway, looking on Lisle site I saw this and thought it was what you were talking about.

http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=794



Have you read my thread "EASY! 2013 up oil change" ???

I highly recommend giving it a shot. Good time to give the turbo a spin. NO special tools required.
 
"you know what is funny is I usually let the oil drain overnight and do the filter in the morning and I swear half the oil get siphoned out if it sits overnite. isn't hardly even a mess."

I have always done the same! I do leave my hood up a few inches just so it accidentally does not get started!
 
Gotcha. I know what Genos cap to prevent oil from spilling looks like and am thinking of getting it. It sure would save a mess. The plastic bag thing doesn't work for me. I usually end up making a mess with it too. A smaller mess, but still a mess.

Anyway, looking on Lisle site I saw this and thought it was what you were talking about.

http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=794




Ya, the only Lisle tool I have is the water sensor wrench.That tool from Lisle is pretty new, I believe. I don't think it was available when I bought the Genos cap. Amazon sells them its a Lisle 57180 for 14.80, much better price then the Genos cap.

I thought Kthaxton was referring to the socket style cap for removal, as he said he was referring to this Lisle cap.
 
SnoKing, in case you are interested, I contacted Blackstone and mentioned your issue. They sent me smaller (3/16" OD) tubing to take samples. Used it a couple hours ago and succeeded in getting sample. Tube wants to coil up so had to move it in and out while pumping with Blackstone pump rig to find point where tube was in crankcase and end submerged. Having water pump recall done in a couple days along with oil, oil filter change. 17900 miles on pickup, 6450 miles, 8 months since last oil change. Again I appreciate dialogue like this.
Not doing your own oil changes might complicate doing oil analysis. The Sample is suppose to be caught at half oil drain point. I tried to get a sample with tube down dip stick hole and could not get the plastic tube to the pan. SnoKing
 
SnoKing, in case you are interested, I contacted Blackstone and mentioned your issue. They sent me smaller (3/16" OD) tubing to take samples. Used it a couple hours ago and succeeded in getting sample. Tube wants to coil up so had to move it in and out while pumping with Blackstone pump rig to find point where tube was in crankcase and end submerged. Having water pump recall done in a couple days along with oil, oil filter change. 17900 miles on pickup, 6450 miles, 8 months since last oil change. Again I appreciate dialogue like this.

Lay your plastic tubing out next to your dipstick for reference and wrap a layer of electrical tape around plastic tubing to achieve proper length for pulling samples. It'll get you real close as long as the end of the tubing doesn't curl up once it goes through the dipstick tube.
 
Thanks for tip JR, will give it a try next time I sample. Probably will be late this year. Tubing I was sent is pretty curly, about 9" diameter when released so might still need some tweaking. Wondering if the tube can be straightened by heating it up in the oven and putting under tension until it cools.
Lay your plastic tubing out next to your dipstick for reference and wrap a layer of electrical tape around plastic tubing to achieve proper length for pulling samples. It'll get you real close as long as the end of the tubing doesn't curl up once it goes through the dipstick tube.
 
Gotcha. I know what Genos cap to prevent oil from spilling looks like and am thinking of getting it. It sure would save a mess. The plastic bag thing doesn't work for me. I usually end up making a mess with it too. A smaller mess, but still a mess.

Anyway, looking on Lisle site I saw this and thought it was what you were talking about.

http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/products/?product=794


Just poking my two cents in, the Lisle cap looks to be a plastic copy of the Geno's filter cap. There should be no reason why it wouldn't work other than it's plastic. I've got a Brother who is a machinist and he made me a his version copy of the Geno's filter cap. They are very sturdy, easy to use and work great. I've got free oil changes at my dealer and I let the mechanic use my cap to do the last oil change. He loved it so much that despite showing him where to get one, he kept whipping out money until I agreed to sell him mine. He said that after deducting the time for oil spill cleanup, that tool was worth every dollar he gave me and then some. He and two other mechanics at the shop had never seen anything like it, hard to believe, and as I left they were talking about a share plan for it.
I do like the finger ring as apposed to the t-handle. Oh, and sticking to the topic, I do my changes by the nanny meter except at around 12- 13K. I talked to a certified Cummins mechanic and and the meter works off a formula derived from miles driven, hours driven and is somehow considers how you are driving (several factors included). He said the biggest thing to consider is the 500 hours and agreed that under normal driving conditions the six month thing was rediculas especially with full synth oil being used. YMMV.
 
Just poking my two cents in, the Lisle cap looks to be a plastic copy of the Geno's filter cap. There should be no reason why it wouldn't work other than it's plastic. I've got a Brother who is a machinist and he made me a his version copy of the Geno's filter cap. They are very sturdy, easy to use and work great. I've got free oil changes at my dealer and I let the mechanic use my cap to do the last oil change. He loved it so much that despite showing him where to get one, he kept whipping out money until I agreed to sell him mine. He said that after deducting the time for oil spill cleanup, that tool was worth every dollar he gave me and then some. He and two other mechanics at the shop had never seen anything like it, hard to believe, and as I left they were talking about a share plan for it.
I do like the finger ring as apposed to the t-handle. Oh, and sticking to the topic, I do my changes by the nanny meter except at around 12- 13K. I talked to a certified Cummins mechanic and and the meter works off a formula derived from miles driven, hours driven and is somehow considers how you are driving (several factors included). He said the biggest thing to consider is the 500 hours and agreed that under normal driving conditions the six month thing was rediculas especially with full synth oil being used. YMMV.



I was in the process of making my own cap, when I got one for Christmas , along with the socket that fits the filter for removal.

I am curious as to what your brother did on the threads, did he machine the threads , my problem was I never did find the right bolt or threads to fit the filter . I tried what I was told was , 1-12 and 1-14 . 1-12 being the standard ,but 1-14 is more commonly used. Neither fit, or was not given the right bolts, I even tried metric.
 
No clean up time from up here! :D

IMG_3027.jpg


IMG_3027.jpg
 
what little bit of oil spills out of the filter when changing I don't worry about.. I spray the area with soap and water and move on. life is easy, why make it difficult
 
I was in the process of making my own cap, when I got one for Christmas , along with the socket that fits the filter for removal.

I am curious as to what your brother did on the threads, did he machine the threads , my problem was I never did find the right bolt or threads to fit the filter . I tried what I was told was , 1-12 and 1-14 . 1-12 being the standard ,but 1-14 is more commonly used. Neither fit, or was not given the right bolts, I even tried metric.

Oil_Filter_Tool.jpg


He cut the threads but I'm not sure what he used or the pitch. I do know that he said it was a common size. Here is a picture of what he made me.
OK, found the messages we swapped, this, I believe is the correct information - Thread Size: 1-16 UN-28

Oil_Filter_Tool.jpg
 
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He cut the threads but I'm not sure what he used or the pitch. I do know that he said it was a common size. Here is a picture of what he made me.
OK, found the messages we swapped, this, I believe is the correct information - Thread Size: 1-16 UN-28



Thanks, I am not familiar enough with threads to know, but all that is listed that I found for 1" in a fine thread is either 12 or 14 threads per inch.
 
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