Yes, 05's have a MAP sensor. No, that won't cause the symptoms he is seeing. The TC is probably not locking up, rather, the sprag clutch is not releasing which results in a no stall condition which loads the engine cause it to want increase fueling to maintain rpms. There is literally no limit to how rpm can be gained at a stop condition if the engine is loaded, well, 3200 which is redline. TC's don't "slip" in that sense there just do varying degree of converting fluid flow across a stator to motion. At an idle an dunder about 25 mh the sprag needs to unloock to allow th eengine to come down to idle and not load against the TC or stopping becomes an adventure.
If you go back over the suggestions here this is your best starting point...
1. TC
2. Pump Housing Warped
3. Sprag Issue
You have a few posts going and understand the frustration of dead end posts... I'm a novice 47re disassembler
, I have not stayed at a Holiday Inn lately, but lets break down some of the above since it appears to be the only spot we have some help at this time.
You mentioned its a new rebuilt ATS trans in some posts and they swapped the triple disk TC already. I'm already tired thinking about taking this thing apart this many times. Understand fully needing this thing fixed.
Did they give you the test report from the 1st TC this would be day 1 when you got the new trans, the suspect one they swapped, mine came with a graph sheet and was fully tested at time of build and a build test sheet provided, then you should have the test sheet from the 2nd new one now installed.
I would think during the warranty process the RR shop should have requested a follow up test on the removed unit when sent back. Even out of warranty I would pay to have it re-run to properly rule it out. Get the TC tested and compare 1st test to "now" test, if that one is failed and you got the new TC from the same source, who knows could be a 2nd bad unit. The test will prove this thing out for sure. Im sure the place doing the RR is not the one to test the TC, the machine is very complicated and not something a normal shop would have, send it back get it tested. Rule something out. Swapping out a bad part for bad part wont fix it.
The TC are heavy like 60lb heavy in the box and for sure could be dropped kicked pushed dragged in shipping, so the test sheet only means at one time in its life it was proven, if they sent this 1st hunk back out and put it on the test set it would have ruled out the TC thru the warranty process. I would think the RR shop now has some hr's into this repair since they were declined warranty on the good part they just sent back. Or not and the TC is in a heap pile somewhere and they approved the warranty work no question asked.
2. Item from the other post. "The pump housing could be warped", its well known to only use quality pumps, there is a process in the book to check some of the clearances for the pump gear but I dont think the above is worried about that but rather the overall housing to the case they have some ports amd passages if warped it soulds like there could be cross flow at the incorrect time. Would only go with new OEM pump, think they are around a few hundred bucks, compared to the IIRC around $1500 TC if a true triple disk and the sort built for these trucks and fully tested.
They can run the checks on the pumps and gears on the bench, but basically you are replacing the pump if suspect, if its a rebuilt pump the suggestions I have trash the rebuild and get a new Mopar pump. Do not replace with another rebuild. Supply your own if its a sticking point. Same deal check the old pump out see if its in spec. Try to rule something out.
3. Sprag Clutch. Ummm yeah this is burried deep in the trans the outer race of the sprag is inside the physical case. There is a procedure to check the race for movement, if there is movement you need to have the race secured to the case, yeah again this is specailzed work you dont want someone not familar with that process doing this to a "new" under warranty unit. Then you have the physical sprag clutch parts if the race is good and solid and they possibly did not use a new sprag assy or it broke during assy, they are cheap like under $50 but for sure you now have a complete trans apart for this $50 part, if the race is loose the whole thing pretty much is a "lose lose", but re-read the advise above.
If you do come to a conclusion please post the results as you see it is very helpful to all.
Sorry its not the answer you want, I would also go back over the electrical connectors as they are problem area on the exterior of the trans to the truck. Your one post mentioned they replaced your alternator. If it was with a auto parts store unit yeah good luck they are complete waste of $, most of the time, should have tested the OEM one and just rebuilt that one with quality parts. The OEM one if you have it or they have it, get it back if at all possible and put it back on.
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